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Escaping the Silent Partner After a Fall

Original Post
Jeff Harmon · · New Jersey · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 260

Hi All,

Was thinking about something today, so let's say you're leading solo using the silent partner and you take a fall. The device does what it should and locks up. Let's even say that you're on semi-overhanging terrain and can't reach the rock easily.

So now, how to escape the "belay" so to speak. As a general rule of thumb, I should be carrying my ascenders so I can just ascend the rope.

One other option I was thinking about was how to transition onto a grigri and rappel down. As I think about it, you're not going to get a grigri on a loaded line like the one you'd be hanging on. So Perhaps either with ascenders or prusiks, I'd have to get my weight off the silent partner by attaching those (ascenders/prusik) higher up the line and haul myself on them, then undo the SP, thread the grigri, run the brake line up through a biner higher on the ascender/prusik, and 2:1 my butt up until the grigri takes my weight.

Note: 2 points on the rope at all times so 2 ascenders or 2 prusiks. Got that.

Other ideas?

J

csproul · · Pittsboro...sort of, NC · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 330

Not much different than if you fell while tied into the end of the rope really. If you look at the directions, however, you can release the SP and "self lower" with it. You're really over thinking it. Either use your ascenders to go up, lower yourself with the SP, or use your ascenders to unweight the rope and attach a rap device to go down.

Altitude adjustment · · SLC,Utah · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 10

You can self lower after a fall on a Silent Partner. Check out the tech notice. Tech sheet

It says pull on the free end of the rope while it is wrapped around your waist and it will disengage the clutch. Supposedly it is harder to repel because the friction from the rope around your waist is the only friction that is going to slow you down.

I just bouget a SP off MP and am getting up to speed on the working of the device. Stay safe.

Tech sheet 1

Tech sheet 2

Jeff Harmon · · New Jersey · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 260

Ah. Outstanding! Thanks guys. I bought mine used too but it came with no tech sheet.

J

Sam England · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 410

Don't even think of using the Silent Partner without reading the manual cover to cover.

rockexotica.com/media/wysiw…

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

General Climbing
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