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Splitters in CO?

Original Post
Erik Kowalczyk · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined May 2015 · Points: 46

Looking for an area / route that has stellar splitters. Hands, fingers, fists, whatever.

Andy Hansen · · Longmont, CO · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 3,195

Turkey Rocks

Eric Klammer · · Eagle, CO · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 2,070

Escalante fits the bill.

Philip Magistro · · Estes Park, CO · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 0

Lumpy.

Matthew Windchime · · denver · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 10

Escalante is definitely full of good splitters. It's desert though and so will be very hot. We were sweating in February. There is definitely one spot that has some protection from the sun and rain tho :)

mountainproject.com/v/inter… There are some really fun ones in a cave, very aesthetic lines.

In the afternoon it may be better because all the walls I know of face east mostly. The camping is good, but rough. it's definitely BLM, leave no trace kind of stuff.

The Sandstone sits on top of a granite bed and you could definitely set up Top Ropes by the creek (it would surely be cooler) but I don't know of any routes actually listed. There are climbable routes for sure on granite there too, but short. If you do that, submit the FAs, I would be curious to see what you find.

Matthew Windchime · · denver · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 10
Jeff G · · Colorado · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,098
Erik Kowalczyk · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined May 2015 · Points: 46

Thanks for the suggestions.
A-K, I love vedauwoo but feel like I go up too much.
I like the look of that S-Crack!

highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion · · Colorado · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 35

What grade are you looking to climb?

When you say splitters, do you mean straight in crack or a true splitter, cause there is a difference and it will affect my suggestions.

Jon H · · PC, UT · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 118
highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion wrote: do you mean straight in crack or a true splitter, cause there is a difference
How do you define the difference? Just curious.
doligo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 264
Jon H wrote: How do you define the difference? Just curious.
Examples of true splitters: Cyborg, Pink Flamingo, Supercrack, Generic, Lobotomy.

Corners are not true splitters.
grog m · · Saltlakecity · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 70

WELL thats certainly debatable. I would NOT call Generic Crack a "splitter". its flared and had multiple pods

Now corners can "be splitter" but I agree they arent "splitters"

As for the original question: there are some DANK splitters on the Colorado National Monument in Grand Junction. For example Supercrack of the Monument is sooooo good

Mike Slavens · · Houston, TX · Joined Jan 2009 · Points: 35

To me a true splitter is a crack that both sides are parallel to each other, with little to no constrictions, is hard if not impossible to protect without cams, and requires 3+ pieces of gear in a row that are the same size. I don't think being in a corner or not makes a difference. But that's just my perspective.

If you are looking for long sustained jamming in cracks I will second Turkey Rocks and Lumpy Ridge. I think Star Wars/Blind Faith/Handcracker (and probably more) in Eldo have some stellar splitter-ish sections.

WadeM · · Auburn, Ca · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 481

Nothing pure splitter but here's what comes close

Quarry Wall - North Table Mtn

  • Silver Bullet
  • Bonecrusher

Boulder Canyon
  • Bell Buttress
  • Country Club
  • Gill Crack

Eldo
  • Blind Faith
  • White Lightning
  • Last pitch naked edge
  • Bastille Crack
William Thiry · · Las Vegas · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 311

Mr. Natural at Eldo. Good luck with the 5.8 rating.

highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion · · Colorado · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 35
Jon H wrote: How do you define the difference? Just curious.
I just threw that in because I saw great climbing areas that dont really have spitters suggested.

Notably, Lumpy and Turkey.

I can only think of Piece of Cake at Turkey as a "splitter". Whimsical, Drumstick, Unicorns, Vanishing Point, etc, are all great but are really just cracks. Not splitter cracks. They are undulating and uneven and rounded at the edges, not a straight in sharp sided crack.

In the Platte, there are splitters. Bishops and Craftwork, Brothers in Arms (though it's diagonal), Bad JuJu (though its offset at the lip), Same Reality, Little Bopeep Diploma, 6 Cowgirls for Breakfast, and Sphinx Crack.

This doesn't necessarily make them better than less pure cracks like the Far Reaches, Brashears, Crumbling Reality, or The Center Route. It's just an accuracy in labeling issue, not a quality statement.

For multiple splitters you'll find more of them, closer together, in Wingate Sandstone. Search that out if you want volume.

I noticed you're in Ft. Collins. Check out Go Spuds Go at Greyrock. Pure splitter. Short and sweet.
Erik Kowalczyk · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined May 2015 · Points: 46

As far as what I'm looking for, I would like to find a pure splitter, Indian creek style, 7 #2 s perfect hand crack for 120+ ft. That being said, it's probably hard to find in CO so I'll take pretty much as close as you can get. Seeing a lot of great recommendations for some killer crack climbs. I appreciate the beta.

Also, just for reference, I can feel fairly comfortable climbing up to 11b/c/d? On gear. But open for anything that is worth getting on.

grog m · · Saltlakecity · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 70

Erik, Supercrack of the monument is splitter 2's and 1's

mountainproject.com/v/10725…

mason boos · · fo co · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 25

Sounds like you need to go to turkey rocks

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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