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Do you stick clip? Why or why not?

Healyje · · PDX · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 422
that guy named seb wrote:I think ondra should just top rop his problems. I wont respect ondra until he climbs change, rather than just dogging his way up it, as Healyje said, not being able to do overhanging routes on top rope is utter nonsense.
Gotta love you guys and your replays. I never said anyone should top rope overhangs, I merely corrected the nonsense assertion they can't be done safely on TR. Are there some that can't? Sure, but most can. It's that assertion that's utter nonsense, but hey, I know it's a stretch to keep it all straight.

reboot wrote: So that's what, 15-20 ft of overhang over the entire route? If this was a full length (100ft) pitch, it'd be about 10 degree overhung, not really very overhanging by modern sport climbing standard.
It’s hard to tell from the photo and hard to distinguish the route’s line from the formation behind it, but there’s more of the route below the picture and over all it’s overhung thirty five or so feet. The other route is probably more like fifty feet.

Sam Spuds wrote:Healyje I take it you used to climb with Thurmond as he said he was a big proponent of the pile of leaves crash pad back in the good ol' days haha
Sam, you don't say! Thurmond, that bastard, clearly just another old, has-been, lowland, potato-farming pussy who doesn't get out enough.

Sam Spuds wrote:Alex's zeobastions what is your opinion on this condition?
Alex often does have the best read on things…

reboot wrote: You know what, this is the digital age. So, if you think I guessed wrong, show me a couple photos of you TRing one of your very overhung routes & better yet, make a video of you pitching off the first 15 ft of it & then we can be convinced it's safe.

Bill Kirby wrote:Well Healyje, what say you?


I did post up the two that are dangerous. FoF has one broken back chalked up to it and everyone who did FotR took a 23 footer onto their back on hard ground sans pads - no one ever took that fall more than once. None of the others were in any way unsafe to TR, just much harder.

Nathanael wrote: Yup, nothing "modern" here. Same old shit, I'd TR it any day.
Yeah, nothing new there, we were climbing out of shallow caves bitd, but doing it in a place where bolting wasn't allowed and we wouldn't have regardless so those lines stopped above the entrance in a lot of case, in others they ended with some fairly highball bouldering. And of course in this world of yours the exception is clearly the norm both for the rock and the people who get on it.
that guy named seb · · Britland · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 236
Healyje wrote:Yeah, nothing new there, we were climbing out of shallow caves bitd
When stubbornness and stupidity turns into trolling.
Healyje · · PDX · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 422

Just fact and part of the terrain and territory where we came up.

Walter Galli · · Las vegas · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 2,247
that guy named seb wrote:I think ondra should just top rop his problems youtube.com/watch?v=qA8Bjp4… vimeo.com/68083454 I wont respect ondra until he climbs change, rather than just dogging his way up it, as Healyje said, not being able to do overhanging routes on top rope is utter nonsense.
Man did you realize wath you are Talking about?
Healyje · · PDX · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 422

With that I'll abandon you to another twenty pages of riveting stick clippery.

Walter Galli · · Las vegas · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 2,247

Yeah clip it or not clip it? That's a HUGE discussion......

marmot marmot · · Eugene, OR · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 173

I appreciate the use of the stickclip. If I was about to get on a route and a nearby climber offered me there stickclip to borrow, I would accept if I felt anything less than confident in getting the first bolt.

That said, I don't have any interest in buying or carrying one myself. I'm not going to kill myself to get to the first bolt of a sport route on my own, so if I can't get there, then I can't get there and move on.

Aleks Zebastian · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 175

climbing friend,

make sure that your shaft is quite stiff. I was aware of one stick clipping with shaft was not stiff, and was bending, making it quite difficult to place draw, ending in only frustrations...

JA T · · Cave Creek, AZ · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 310

Yep, definitely use my trusty squid from time to time. Certain crags it's not necessary but others it is. I value my ankles and decking because I had too much ego to pre-clip the bolt is just silly. Climbing is meant to be fun and stick clipping sketchy start routes makes it more fun.

David Garancosky · · State College, PA · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 70
NC Rock Climber wrote:I stick clip when I want to stick clip. It depends. My decision (and hopefully every climber's decision on how to protect themselves from injury) is 100% my decision and I could care less about others opinion of how I climb.
I agree with you man. Do what you feel.
I take everything into consideration just like any climbing experience. Am I teaching someone new or guiding a group? Am I climbing with my partners? Wet? Whatever. This could even be expanded into running out TRAD over some sketch. Sometimes I'll sew that sucker up. Then other times my long time partner just says, "Hey man. I'm kinda just holdin' the rope". Depender...
Eli Buzzell · · noco · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 5,507

I always bring my 36' cam stick to trad areas and shove in a bomber anchor half way up all the routes. It makes me feel much safer when I am going for multiple falls trying to onsight a route in yellowpoint style. All the routes are sandbagged 3 number grades anyway.

ChossKing King · · Boulder, CO · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 0

Hey guys

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
Eli Buzzell wrote:I always bring my 36' cam stick to trad areas and shove in a bomber anchor half way up all the routes.
BITD - mid-80's - this is exactly what a somewhat notorious Gunks climber did.
Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65

Oh, a quick reminder - stick clipping was around and used before sport climbing came into existence.

reboot · · . · Joined Jul 2006 · Points: 125
Marc801 wrote:Oh, a quick reminder - stick clipping was around and used before sport climbing came into existence.
Well yes of course, sport climbers didn't invent aiding, aid climbers did. And then the clean climbing folks came along & declared they own the word "traditional", or am I missing something?
Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
reboot wrote: Well yes of course, sport climbers didn't invent aiding, aid climbers did. And then the clean climbing folks came along & declared they own the word "traditional", or am I missing something?
Clean climbing came about in the mid-70's (in the US) whereas "trad(itional)" didn't arise until "sport climbing" became a term.
reboot · · . · Joined Jul 2006 · Points: 125
Marc801 wrote: Clean climbing came about in the mid-70's (in the US) whereas "trad(itional)" didn't arise until "sport climbing" became a term.
Yes I know, but "trad(itional)" tend to want to leave out the bit before clean climbing. People use "trad(itional)" not for pre-sport climbing, but specifically for clean climbing.
Ralph Swansen · · Boulder CO · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 761

Jordan has my stick clip. Jordito? Where are you?

frank bonnevie · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 87

my stick is 19 feet long add my 7 ft reach ill hang the draw on the 4th bolt.

stick clip

Wrinkledpants · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2015 · Points: 10

A rope prevents you from hitting the ground and getting injured or dying. A stick clip helps the rope do it's job better and more completely. Does it not seem a little fvcked up to only use the rope on 90% of the climb where you can still be severely injured in that other 10%?

Anytime people bring up "purity" or some other BS like that, I roll my eyes. Unless you are free soloing, you've elected to use some type of modern gear to prevent you from dying. It's a massive spectrum of risk, and it's narcissistic to think that you're little spot on the spectrum is somehow better than others.

I own a business. I mountain bike. I'm part-time military. I've broken both collar bones, left hand, a few ribs, a few vertebrate, multiple wrist surgeries. I stick clip the fvck out of sport climbs because not being injured is awesome.

The guys I respect in the climbing community are the ones that have been climbing for decades and are still around to do it. They're often more safety conscious than most. It's amazing to me how much talk about redundancy we have, the various ways we pull carabiners apart to see how they fail and with how much strength, all in the name of living to climb another day. But - start a post about stick clipping? And a few guys with giant racks of safety gear think this one device is......too safe. LOL.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Sport Climbing
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