Do you stick clip? Why or why not?
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that guy named seb wrote:I think ondra should just top rop his problems. I wont respect ondra until he climbs change, rather than just dogging his way up it, as Healyje said, not being able to do overhanging routes on top rope is utter nonsense.Gotta love you guys and your replays. I never said anyone should top rope overhangs, I merely corrected the nonsense assertion they can't be done safely on TR. Are there some that can't? Sure, but most can. It's that assertion that's utter nonsense, but hey, I know it's a stretch to keep it all straight. reboot wrote: So that's what, 15-20 ft of overhang over the entire route? If this was a full length (100ft) pitch, it'd be about 10 degree overhung, not really very overhanging by modern sport climbing standard.It’s hard to tell from the photo and hard to distinguish the route’s line from the formation behind it, but there’s more of the route below the picture and over all it’s overhung thirty five or so feet. The other route is probably more like fifty feet. Sam Spuds wrote:Healyje I take it you used to climb with Thurmond as he said he was a big proponent of the pile of leaves crash pad back in the good ol' days hahaSam, you don't say! Thurmond, that bastard, clearly just another old, has-been, lowland, potato-farming pussy who doesn't get out enough. Sam Spuds wrote:Alex's zeobastions what is your opinion on this condition?Alex often does have the best read on things… reboot wrote: You know what, this is the digital age. So, if you think I guessed wrong, show me a couple photos of you TRing one of your very overhung routes & better yet, make a video of you pitching off the first 15 ft of it & then we can be convinced it's safe. Bill Kirby wrote:Well Healyje, what say you? I did post up the two that are dangerous. FoF has one broken back chalked up to it and everyone who did FotR took a 23 footer onto their back on hard ground sans pads - no one ever took that fall more than once. None of the others were in any way unsafe to TR, just much harder. Nathanael wrote: Yup, nothing "modern" here. Same old shit, I'd TR it any day.Yeah, nothing new there, we were climbing out of shallow caves bitd, but doing it in a place where bolting wasn't allowed and we wouldn't have regardless so those lines stopped above the entrance in a lot of case, in others they ended with some fairly highball bouldering. And of course in this world of yours the exception is clearly the norm both for the rock and the people who get on it. |
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Healyje wrote:Yeah, nothing new there, we were climbing out of shallow caves bitdWhen stubbornness and stupidity turns into trolling. |
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Just fact and part of the terrain and territory where we came up. |
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that guy named seb wrote:I think ondra should just top rop his problems youtube.com/watch?v=qA8Bjp4… vimeo.com/68083454 I wont respect ondra until he climbs change, rather than just dogging his way up it, as Healyje said, not being able to do overhanging routes on top rope is utter nonsense.Man did you realize wath you are Talking about? |
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With that I'll abandon you to another twenty pages of riveting stick clippery. |
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Yeah clip it or not clip it? That's a HUGE discussion...... |
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I appreciate the use of the stickclip. If I was about to get on a route and a nearby climber offered me there stickclip to borrow, I would accept if I felt anything less than confident in getting the first bolt. |
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climbing friend, |
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Yep, definitely use my trusty squid from time to time. Certain crags it's not necessary but others it is. I value my ankles and decking because I had too much ego to pre-clip the bolt is just silly. Climbing is meant to be fun and stick clipping sketchy start routes makes it more fun. |
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NC Rock Climber wrote:I stick clip when I want to stick clip. It depends. My decision (and hopefully every climber's decision on how to protect themselves from injury) is 100% my decision and I could care less about others opinion of how I climb.I agree with you man. Do what you feel. I take everything into consideration just like any climbing experience. Am I teaching someone new or guiding a group? Am I climbing with my partners? Wet? Whatever. This could even be expanded into running out TRAD over some sketch. Sometimes I'll sew that sucker up. Then other times my long time partner just says, "Hey man. I'm kinda just holdin' the rope". Depender... |
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I always bring my 36' cam stick to trad areas and shove in a bomber anchor half way up all the routes. It makes me feel much safer when I am going for multiple falls trying to onsight a route in yellowpoint style. All the routes are sandbagged 3 number grades anyway. |
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Hey guys |
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Eli Buzzell wrote:I always bring my 36' cam stick to trad areas and shove in a bomber anchor half way up all the routes.BITD - mid-80's - this is exactly what a somewhat notorious Gunks climber did. |
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Oh, a quick reminder - stick clipping was around and used before sport climbing came into existence. |
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Marc801 wrote:Oh, a quick reminder - stick clipping was around and used before sport climbing came into existence.Well yes of course, sport climbers didn't invent aiding, aid climbers did. And then the clean climbing folks came along & declared they own the word "traditional", or am I missing something? |
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reboot wrote: Well yes of course, sport climbers didn't invent aiding, aid climbers did. And then the clean climbing folks came along & declared they own the word "traditional", or am I missing something?Clean climbing came about in the mid-70's (in the US) whereas "trad(itional)" didn't arise until "sport climbing" became a term. |
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Marc801 wrote: Clean climbing came about in the mid-70's (in the US) whereas "trad(itional)" didn't arise until "sport climbing" became a term.Yes I know, but "trad(itional)" tend to want to leave out the bit before clean climbing. People use "trad(itional)" not for pre-sport climbing, but specifically for clean climbing. |
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Jordan has my stick clip. Jordito? Where are you? |
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my stick is 19 feet long add my 7 ft reach ill hang the draw on the 4th bolt. |
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A rope prevents you from hitting the ground and getting injured or dying. A stick clip helps the rope do it's job better and more completely. Does it not seem a little fvcked up to only use the rope on 90% of the climb where you can still be severely injured in that other 10%? |