Courtright - Leopold Dome + Swiss Cheese Wall

Anyone have topos and or beta for these domes they would be willing to share? Happy to keep the beta confidential if needed.

Do you have the SEKI book?

Word of Mouth for Swiss cheese .....

I did about 3 or 4 of them, none were hard 11s IIRC... most 5.10 or 5.9 good well protected face climbing.

You rap in, so you can get a look at the climbs.

Walk around the backside of Power Dome, go past the big sandstone part (the intrusion)... and cross a small stream. You are now on top of SC wall. Look around, the bolts are sort of hard to locate because they are hidden from view by some boulders... rap in.

We had double 50m ropes, I don't recall any issues... one of the climbs that go out was a 5.8 or a 5.9 so you can get back out.

IIFC the pro was mostly bolts, but small tri-cams are always needed in Courtright.

Leopold ..... is that the dome in the backcountry? It has a big climb on it named "Best in The West"????... if so i hear that BITW is freaking scary, hard and very committing esp a section of 11 that is very run out ....

IMHO... Trapper Dome and Power Dome have the best climbing. Voyageur (sp) has some good and bad ones. One of the Best climbs on Voygeur is: "By Jupiter there are Rings around Uranus" .... 11D 5 or six pitches, #2 and #3 are the money.

no need to keep any of this on the down low.... Dwight has a new guide book in the works. He has done his homework so it will be a really good book.

have fun, I never would go to Courtright before Labor Day, because I hate bugs and all of the hard face climbing is right in the sun. But if you get up early and stay in the shade its OK ... just bring the 100% bug juice and a shotgun for the hungry meatbees!!!

Have fun.

Guy Keesee wrote:Best climbs on Voygeur is: "By Jupiter there are Rings around Uranus" .... 11D 5 or six pitches, #2 and #3 are the money. ... just bring the 100% bug juice and a shotgun for the hungry meatbees!!! Have fun.

Glad to hear that By Jupiter... is awesome, thanks Guy. I know some stuff up there has been re-bolted, but I'm guessing this is still sporting older hardware, yes? Maybe semi-modern pound-ins like those on Esto Power?

And no joke about the meat bugs!! Those suckers will eat your sandwich if you don't pay attention.

Good to hear about the new book, I assume it will be good because Dwight's Tollhouse book is deluxe.

J. the meat bees are fearsome....

one time we got sick of them.... so Herb went to war.

He took a bucket- filled it 1/2 way up with water... then he took a piece of plywood, stuck a nail in it and hung a chunk of fish on the nail, he also drilled a 3/4 inch hole into the plywood. He put the plywood on the bucket.... the meat bees started to go after the fish hunk... they would eat so much they couldn't fly very well much less go straight up back through the hole, they would tire out then drown in the water.

In a few hours the water was over flowing the bucket cause of all the dead meat bees..... so we emptied it out and reset the trap. This left a huge pile of dead meat bees.... the meat bees started devouring their dead comrades. It only took about 30 min and the dead ones were gone, every one of them without a trace! Then they returned to the bucket....

we did this for 3 days! they never even slowed down.

Sooooo much fun and adventure to be had at Courtright.

EDIT... yea I bet some of the hardware is getting old on some of the climbs. Beware of the 3/8 button heads with pound marks on the head... those are overdriven into a way shallow hole... the head gets worked back and forth. This causes cracks where the head joins the shaft.
One person (who I will not name) who added bolts to climbs used these and was to lazy to drill a nice deep hole. So look for those and beware.
Kris and the crew I ran with started putting in 3/8 Hilti Bolts around 95 ... so those should be good. All of the roots Herb did have well placed bolts because he used a power drill mostly and switched over to 3/8s pretty early on.