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International Sport Climbing...what's the best?

Original Post
Leeanne · · Denver, CO · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 170

I would love to travel out of the country and bring my sport climbing gear. I just have no idea where to go. Thailand, South Africa, Spain, France....I have no idea what each offers and the benefits of each. If anyone has some insight that'd be greatly appreciated, thanks!

Johnathan C · · Missouri · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 85

Haven't been there yet myself, but will be all season this year: El Potrero Chico, MX

JCM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 115

That is a giant question, and there is an overwhelming number of sport climbing areas in the world to choose from. There is no one "best" area for everyone; it depends on what you are looking for.

To narrow things down, consider these questions:

1. What time of year are you looking to travel?

2. Are you looking for a focused climbing trip, or more of a beach vacation and climbing combo?

3. How adventurous a travel/cultural experience are you looking for? Traveling to Spain is easy from a logistical and cultural standpoint. Travel in China is a bit more challenging.

4. What grades do you climb?

5. Any climbing style preferences? Steep vs. vert? Single vs. multi-pitch?

6. Budget? Some places are cheaper to visit that others; going to El Potrero is a lot cheaper than flying to Kalymnos. You don't need to provide dollar amounts, just a cheap/intermediate/lavish approximation. For instance, will you be looking to get a hotel room, or camp in the dirt?

Once you ask/answer these questions, you can really narrow down where you should go. If you post answers, people here could make better reccomendations.

kiff · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 1,035

Catalonia hands down

Steve Sangdahl · · eldo sprngs, co · Joined Mar 2002 · Points: 735

Kalymnos, Greece! Best sport climbing and chill scene!

ClimbLikeAGirl · · Keene Valley · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 15

+1 For Kalymnos. I went out for 2 weeks in April and wish I could have doubled the time I had there. Amazing food, amazing culture, amazing people, and of course the climbing is definitely beyond amazing!

Traveling to Greece in particular right now is cheap as hell. The exchange rate is extremely in the US favor.

Vero · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 5

JCM asked the right questions. I travelled a lot for climbing and love Sicily, Spain, Greece and Laoa. Climbing there makes fun if you climb a 6a+ (french).

snowdenroad · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2007 · Points: 50
ClimbLikeAGirl wrote:+1 For Kalymnos. I went out for 2 weeks in April and wish I could have doubled the time I had there.
Our first trip to Europe was Kalymnos, and more than a few travelers we met only go there. So yeah, its really good - if - imo you climb at least mid 5.10 b/c that's about where the tufa climbing started, and that's why you go there, tufas.

But the small flights in/out of K seem a bit erratic these days, and I'm not sure what Kos is like for the ferry schedule as I think its a major entry point of refugees heading into Europe?? ClimbLikeAGirl, any insights into KOS? How did you get to the island.

As far as Spain goes, Catalunya is great if you project at a single crag b/c the crags are really spread out. This is in Contrast to El Chorro where you don't even need a car to get to loads of climbing. Sella is also very nice and more moderate, with lots of multi-pitch.

enjoy!
mediocre · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 0

Just want to follow this thread

SRB25 · · Woodside, ca · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 5

Headed to Verdon Gorge in two weeks and other stuff in southern France. Trip report to come.

Parker Wrozek · · Denver, CO · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 86
mediocre wrote:Just want to follow this thread
I can just click the check box at the bottom of the page without replying to achieve this.
Phil Lauffen · · Innsbruck, AT · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 3,098

When? That's the big question. There is a season for everything under the sun...

Early Fall: Catalonia, Rodellar, Verdon
Late Fall: Kalymnos
Winter: Geyikbairi , Thailand(?), Chulilla
Spring: Margalef and Siurana
Summer: Ceuse, Norway

Leeanne · · Denver, CO · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 170

Thanks everyone...much appreciated! I have no idea what season I will try to get out...depends on time off work and cost. I am excited to look into all these options!

Medic741 · · Des Moines, IA (WTF) · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 265

Piedra Parada

Walter Galli · · Las vegas · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 2,247

Spain.

John Byrnes · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 392

www.climbcaymanbrac.com

dsauerbrun · · Boulder · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 56

might i suggest climbcation.com

it's a site i've been working on as a side project to catalog and filter world class climbing destinations. It's a wiki style site which has 111 destinations on it at the moment.

If you've got any questions or feedback I've love to hear you out!

John Byrnes · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 392
Michael Schneider wrote: Cayman Brac was not a climbing destination, unless you had your own Yacht ! now, as of 2015, maybe not so much? 85 lines from 5.6 to 5.13. . . . Salt and sun . . . Are the bolts good? How much does a trip there cost?Trip Insurance? It looks like you can now go with just Shoes and a chalk bag, maybe buy a harness when you get there, to get all salty & Sandy. . . Ymmv. While visiting the Islands, I'd recommend The BVI dream land with a top rope before a visit to Kieth Lenard & Sam Lightner (jr)'s lines at the Brac but having only been to Peter Island, Virgin Gorda and some sea bound rocks take this with a grain of salt. . . .B~>
Michael, everything you've written here is wrong.

Need a yacht? Nonsense, there's an international airport on the Brac and direct flights from Miami.

If you looked at the website, you wouldn't need to ask about the bolts.

I don't know who Kieth Lenard is, but he's never put up a route on Cayman Brac. And I know for sure Sam's never been to the Brac.

If you'd actually been to the Brac, and had a basis for your opinion, I wouldn't say a thing. But clearly you don't know a thing about Cayman Brac.
John Byrnes · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 392
Michael Schneider wrote: Cool a second, triple edit,
Perhaps you should learn how to properly quote/reply to posts, instead of doing "second, triple edit"(s) which result in all your posts being completely garbled and practically unreadable.

Michael Schneider wrote: I certainly stand corrected! I was wrong thanks for pointing it out I meant Craig Luebben. Grain of salt ,B~> Regardless of my honest mistake; I thought I was promoting the web sight, and directing those unfamiliar with the significant history and all the Upgrades, by adding it.was a positive thing ?


An honest mistake or lazy, uninformed spew? Craig (may he RIP), put up his last route on the Brac almost 20 years ago. What's your point in mentioning him? Just dropping his name (and getting it wrong) is not "significant history".

Michael Schneider wrote:I meant it in the same way as where, in the same post that you failed to Quote, I included : Not that I have any ideas about the following : Piedra Parada What medic741 is recommending petzl.com/fondation/projets…
This makes no sense at all.

Michael Schneider wrote:No place do I claim to be an expert. I respect your right to have an opinion here , please respect my right to also voice my opinions. To respond in kind would be to lower myself . I'm so sorry to have been so rash as to get the name wrong. Location ocean planet wrong. if your reading comprehension improves and you can be civil I might have more to say on the subject. Another case of an admin following guideline #1? Your tone indicates what, exactlly ?
As I said, if you had an informed opinion, I would have let it stand. But you obviously have never been to the Brac, were too lazy to look at the website to get current information and everything you posted was WRONG.

I use that "tone" when someone, on any topic, posts obviously wrong information. This is not me being a jerk, it's me correcting or clarifying bad information, and letting the poster know they should clean up their act.

I've never tried to hide the fact that I have a personal and financial connection to Cayman Brac. I posted the link to its website because it has certain advantages over other international destinations and not that many people know about it.

Besides excellent climbing, it takes less than a day to get there from the U.S. compared to Europe or Asia with little to no jet-lag. It's English-speaking, warm in the winter, uncrowded, has safe Ti bolts, pure drinking water, no crime, etc. And you don't need a yacht.
Walter Galli · · Las vegas · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 2,247

100 X cent with John on this one, is amazing place and I will definally go visit, Short trip from SXM and I have friends over there,,,heheheheh

Leeanne · · Denver, CO · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 170

Figured I'd post what I ended up doing in case others are thinking about planning trips.
Went to Cuba for a week after Christmas and it was great! Decided to go there due to closer proximity, cost, warm weather, and culture. It was a fun trip and I'd recommend it.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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