Near miss at the Gunks

I was out climbing in the Gunks this evening and had a close miss that I wanted to share with the community because it brings up a few key 'norms' that keep us safe.

I was climbing with two other (newer) climbers (fake names to protect reputations)
Ashley - has followed ~10 pitches outdoors
Jack - has lead ~50 pitches in the 5.3-5.7 range with a handful of harder lines in the Gunks. Newer climber

I lead CCK and we topped out in the dark. Everyone brought headlamps. We had 2 ropes, 1 60m and 1 70m. I wasn't sure if we could get down in a single rap so we decided to do 2 rappels over the Last Will be First stations. Jack rappelled first, with the second rope and prepared that second rappel while Ashley, the new climber was rappelling. Before she reached the station Jack departed the second rappel station and safely rappelled to the ground.

Jack untied the rappel rope stopper knots and was unable to communicate this to the top where I was waiting to rappel last and Ashley had just left the ledge.

A few minutes later I heard Ashley yelling that 'something was wrong' and realized that we had an emergency in process. I asked if there were knots at the end of the rappel line when she replied that she only had 2 feet of rope left in the brake strands of her device. She was able to remain calm and tie an overhand in the end of each rope. I couldn't see her over the ledge so wasn't sure what was going on, but she stated that she had rappelled past the last station where the second rope was hung. I was unsure at this point if she had in fact placed stopper knots properly and identified that a rapid rescue was indicated.

I decided to access her and tied a double stranded munter into the first rap rope, recognizing that if she were to weight the system I would be unable to move if I had placed a tube device. I rappelled down to her where I arrived at the second rappel station, with the second rope hung that Jack had just rappelled off of, and Ashley 15 feet below the station with 2 feet of rope behind her device.

I transferred to rappel on the second rope, recognizing that she was at risk of falling ~50ft to the ground. I tied a rescue spider with the 21ft of 6mm cordalette and girth hitched the bight to myself and tied eights on bights to the two tethers. I rappelled down to Ashley, secured her to the rescue spider tethers and girth hitched a double length runner to her belay loop and clipped this to the ATC rappel biner to backup the spider. After double checking the system I released her from the 2 feet of rope holding her from the ground and tandem rapped to the ground safely.

• **LESSONS***
• NEVER untie rappel rope knots if you cannot effectively communicate to your entire party. Actually, best to leave this until *right* before you pull the ropes
• when climbing at dark important to be extra aware. Ashley says the rope 'blended in' with the rock because it was dark
• Communicate how your group will work before you leave the ground. I guess this should include the minutiae of untying rap rope knots
• If you are with a new climber *never* let them arrive at a rappel station alone. This was my mistake as I trusted Ashely to arrive safely to the rappel station as the next set of ropes had been hung and I assumed would be easy to find, and having tied knots in the ends of the ropes myself I knew there was acceptably mitigated risks. The stakes got higher when these knots were untied.
• Practicing rescue is a vital and LIFESAVING skill. I know I've promoted the practice of rescue techniques and they were definitely put to good use here.

For those of us who choose to take new climbers into the mountains it is our responsibility to be able to safely manage any emergencies that arise, this being an almost comically typical one.

What are your thoughts? Any similar incidents? I wanted to share this to prevent an accident, because I have never been this close to having a serious climbing accident and think it contains lessons that we can all benefit from.

Be well,
Matt

gosh you're cool

Double stranded munter? I don't understand this how did you rap down a weighted rope?

sarcasm wrote:gosh you're cool

Post might have been 80% this. But it still provides a story that might be valuable to some. (Most of us post wanting to share our experiences, even better if it includes self promotion.)

It is still far better than posts that seek to demean and insult others and add no information to the discussion.

djh860 wrote:Double stranded munter? I don't understand this how did you rap down a weighted rope?

This confused me too. But I would assume that she was able to stand on a ledge. Still the assumption that you would still be able with a weighted double munter is flawed.

Medic741 wrote:What are your thoughts?

I think the biggest lesson is lack of recognition of responsibilities of looking after non-independent climbers. You sort of refer to this as you last dot point but it really needs to be emphasised.

Ashley sounded like she was not adept with the skills and knowledge to safely perform a multi pitch abseil. This should have been recognised and catered for. In this case a bottom belay from first person down would have covered most aspects.

Thanks for the post, and nice work 'fixing' the situation.

I always try to be super careful not to rap past the next station, they can be easy to miss, especially if they are off to the side a bit.

Did Ashley not have prussik cords on her? This would have been the easiest solution, yes? That, or climb back up (tying backup knots below the rap device along the way)?

Thank you for sharing your situation, but I am also a little confused about your setup. The LSBF rap requires three single rope rappers to the ground, even with a 70m. With two ropes, doing two raps, it makes most sense to do one rap to the GT ledge, move climber's left to the bolts, then a double rope rappel to the ground. With a more experienced party, the first climber down could bring the second rope, fix it at the bolts, and do a single strand rappel, which would leave no one at the middle station when the second climber came down, but that doesn't appear to be what you did.

My big question is how Ashley rapped past a station that should have had a person at it? Even with the anchors off to the side, why did Jack not say something to her?

What reason did Jack have to untie the knots at the end of the rope and why not wait for Ashley? Both of you knew Ashley was new? You guys plan the usual guide rappel stuff to make sure Ashley get to the ground safe at the top of the cliff?

Jack sounds sketchy.

How do you rappel from a tensed rope? first thing that comes in mind is tying one prusik knot on each side of the rope and alternating weight. but this way getting down will be sloooOOOOOWWWW.

Is there a faster way? taking in account that someone is hanging in unknown conditions.

Maybe don't have someone who's only done 10 outdoor pitches rappelling period, and certainly not rappelling alone. Not a good idea to push keep pushing towards dusk with new climbers.

You can get down a weighted line faster if you use one prussik and one double length nylon sling rapped around the rope like a valdotan which can be used while weighted. That way you can move the prussik which would be your safety backup while it is unweighted. You will eventually fry your sling but in an emergency it will work.

Avoid rappelling in the dark next time as well. Don't plan on it. Headlamps just don't illuminate enough sometimes as the girl discovered.

Bill Kirby wrote: What reason did Jack have to untie the knots at the end of the rope and why not wait for Ashley? Both of you knew Ashley was new? You guys plan the usual guide rappel stuff to make sure Ashley get to the ground safe at the top of the cliff? Jack sounds sketchy.

This. Given Ashley's minimal experience, and lack of a backup for her rappel device, Jack should have waited at the rap station and given a fireman's belay if needed. Moving on to the next belay *and* removing the knots in the first line makes zero sense.

Whether you used a munter or an ATC, either way you would not be able to rappel if she weighted the rope. Think about it - that's how a fireman's belay works. You can descend a weighted rope using prussiks.

Why on earth did Jack untie the knots? I don't often knot the ends of my rope to rap, but multi-pitch rappel in the dark with a new climber is an excellent time to use the technique. Regardless, once the party has decided to use knots, the rope has reached the next station without getting stuck, and everyone above you believes there will still be knots, what possible excuse is there to untie them? The only reason would be if it was a rope stretcher and he had to untie to reach the next station. In which case he should definitely have stayed to make sure the next climber arrived ok - even if she hadn't been new.

It sounds like Jack was too inexperienced (or too inconsiderate?) to help Ashley, so it would have been better for you to pre-rig Ashley's set-up and then lead the raps yourself, giving a fireman's belay.

It's great that you were able to reach her and tandem rap to the ground safely. But she was able to tie backup knots and clearly had a stance (since she wasn't weighting the rope), so it seems if you hadn't known how to help her she wouldn't have died, just hung there uncomfortably until you could find someone who did. Obviously any of the many things you could do to prevent this situation would be better though.

Finally, your apparent belief that a munter would get you down a weighted rope is a red flag to me that you may not fully understand your systems either - and may benefit from instruction and more experience under your belt before you take new climbers out, particularly in situations like multi-pitch rappels in the dark.

Glad it turned out ok for everyone, thank you for sharing your story. Sounds like all three of you could learn a lot from the experience.

I don't know him but based on what you posted I would climb with Jack again, sure there is probably more to this but what he did is like attempted manslaughter for rappelling in the dark. If she had died I could see a conviction for it considering how many things wrong he did.

How many mistakes can you make and have any climbing experience, I got people I have only taken outside 5 times and know better than to do what he did.

First and foremost, thank you for sharing your experience. I'm glad it ended as positively as it did.

The real confusion for me is just what happened versus what was meant to happen when Jack reached the intermediary station.

First, he untied the stopper knots. Clearly he shouldn't have, but WHAT was his reason for doing so? I can't think of any, but knowing what he was thinking could help avoid it in future. Was he trying to save time? Did he think they were there just for the first person to rappel, not every person?

Second, it seems Ashley didn't have an autoblock on her rappel. Was Jack meant to wait at the station and give a fireman's belay? If he was, why didn't he? If he wasn't, why didn't Ashley have a backup?

Did Ashley expect Jack to wait at the rappel station? Whether the ropes "blended in" or not might be beside the point if the game plan she was expecting was that she'd rappel down to him, only to find him much lower than expected.

Why did you choose that Jack would go first and you'd go last? It seems clear that the least experienced climber goes in the middle, but first and last are up for debate.

Again, thanks for sharing. I'd say "you got lucky", except you didn't. You were prepared, and that counts for much more than luck.

Dave

Medic741 wrote: ...I decided to access her and tied a double stranded munter into the first rap rope, recognizing that if she were to weight the system I would be unable to move if I had placed a tube device.

"access" sounds a little creepy.
Real neat story though

Last Will be First has 3 single rope raps. The first is to the GT Ledge. Once on the GT [anywhere along that ledge] its one quick double rope rap to the ground. If you didn't think a double rope rap would make it why would you think two single raps would?

It's great that you were able to get everyone to the ground and I see you've learned a few valuable lessons.

rocknice2 wrote:If you didn't think a double rope rap would make it why would you think two single raps would?

This is my question as well

DaveBaker wrote:First, he untied the stopper knots. Clearly he shouldn't have, but WHAT was his reason for doing so? I can't think of any, but knowing what he was thinking could help avoid it in future. Was he trying to save time? Did he think they were there just for the first person to rappel, not every person?

I'll venture a conjecture, while we wait for the official transcripts. Jack wanted to save time and/or feared the other climbers may forget untying the stopper knots and get the rope stuck. Plus, he reasoned, "the rope comfortably reaches the rappel station; hence the knots are no longer needed." The last part of the reasoning is flawed, but people outside their comfort zone are usually not at the top of their logical game.

I'm among the many who are awaiting a clarification on the Munter/ATC issue. As for transferring Ashley to the second rope, why not do it like this:

• Tie your rescue spider, or simply tie an overhand close to half-way in a double-length sling. What matters are the two tethers. You are not going to use the rescue spider's bight.
• Girth-hitch the shorter tether to your harness. Rig your belay device on the rappel rope and connect it to the common end of two tethers. Install third hand.
• Descend to Ashley, engage the third hand, do leg wraps--whatever it takes to give you a safe stance.
• Clip the longer tether to Ashley's belay loop with a locker. Let her transfer her weight to the newly attached tether.
• Let Ashley get off the first rappel; retrieve first rope; double check system; undo leg wraps; tandem rappel.

If Jack gave her a fireman's belay, which someone should absolutely do for any inexperienced rappeller, the knots would have been irrelevant, and she would have know exactly where to go. This would have been much safer in more than one way.

DaveBaker wrote: Second, it seems Ashley didn't have an autoblock on her rappel. Was Jack meant to wait at the station and give a fireman's belay? If he was, why didn't he? If he wasn't, why didn't Ashley have a backup? Dave

Ashley having an autoblock on rappel would've prevented most, if not all, of the fiasco. Thanks for posting and I'm glad to hear everyone made it out ok. Good work.