Mountain Project Logo
Climb
MTB
Hike
Trailrun
Ski
All Locations > Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Lone Peak Cirque > Summit Wall > Open Book (5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b)
P3. Of the 3 parallel cracks, you'll naturally want to use the 2 on the left as shown. The climbers left crack is hands/thin hands. The middle crack is wider and has good feet/calf jams (for the average 160lb, 5'9" adult male climber).
ID 111980233 · · Copyright Violation?
We scrambled up some 5th class stuff to a cordelette/webbing around a horn. This is where we started our climb(allowed for an easy link up of pitches 1 & 2). Pitch 2 (for us) started underneath the obvious twin cracks. Our pitch 3 started from underneath a small roof. You must traverse left into the chimney from here. There's a piton in chimney right where the roof is. We then scrambled to the top. Dotted lines are behind rock in the picture.
This is the exit to the summit block. After P4 (depending on where you belay from), there's a 5.easy chimney scramble. John Gaynes pictured here, finishing it up...unroped.
Rate Photo
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
  5.0 from 2 votes
Kirk Hilton
Jul 6, 2016
“P3. Of the 3 parallel cracks, you'll naturally want to use the 2 on the left as shown. The climbers left crack is hands/thin hands. The middle crack is wider and has good feet/calf jams (for the average 160lb, 5'9" adult male climber). ”  

0 Comments

Nearby Photos

Going up the boulders to the beginning of the first pitch. Continue up to the right around the base of the wall.
The Open Book with route, belay station, and some notes. Note the slack like in the high upper right! A great climb. Photo from July 4th, 2020
We scrambled up some 5th class stuff to a cordelette/webbing around a horn. This is where we started our climb(allowed for an easy link up of pitches 1 & 2). Pitch 2 (for us) started underneath the obvious twin cracks. Our pitch 3 started from underneath a small roof. You must traverse left into the chimney from here. There's a piton in chimney right where the roof is. We then scrambled to the top. Dotted lines are behind rock in the picture.
P3. Of the 3 parallel cracks, you'll naturally want to use the 2 on the left as shown. The climbers left crack is hands/thin hands. The middle crack is wider and has good feet/calf jams (for the average 160lb, 5'9" adult male climber).
This is the exit to the summit block. After P4 (depending on where you belay from), there's a 5.easy chimney scramble. John Gaynes pictured here, finishing it up...unroped.
Showing the approach and all four pitches. Pitches one and four are hidden behind the rock as shown by the dotted lines.
Top of the 3rd, "bear hug" section.
N. Summit Wall Beta
Top of 3rd pitch of Open Book.
Lone peak summit wall. Open Book. Trip Report: http://rjohnasay.blogspot.com/2011/07/lone-peak-trad-climbingworld-class.html
Looking down from the belay at the top of pitch three. Here you do an awkward exit from the bear hug cracks.
Almost to the crux of the fourth pitch. Fifteen feet above you see a small roof that you transition out right around.
Welcome

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started