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Shoddy bolting at Wild Iris

Original Post
TJ Brumme · · Marrakech · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 1,648

Was just climbing at OK Corral and notice some pretty shoddy bolting on two routes right near each other. Both 'Boob Lube' and 'Diamonds and Rain' had several bolts that had side-to-side play in the holes. The first bolt on Diamonds and Rain was sticking out about 1/4". On 'Boob Lube' the 4th bolt down from the top also had side-to-side play.

If I lived closer I'd volunteer to replace the offending bolts. Maybe next trip up I'll bring supplies if they're still looking bad.

evan h · · Longmont, CO · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 360

Sam Lightner is in the process of upgrading the original mechanical bolts to glue-ins across Wild Iris. I met him a few weeks back as he was doing some of this work at Lower Remuda. He was very friendly and clearly is passionate about what he does. He's a user on MP I believe, and I'm sure he would appreciate any contributions to the hard work that he does.

Brian L. · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 90

Might not be a bad idea to report them here: badbolts.com

If you haven't already.

bsear945 Sears · · Lander, WY · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 20

Ill go check it out it was literally the second route I ever bolted.

bsear945 Sears · · Lander, WY · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 20

Don't worry guys Ill fix it tomorrow. I never go on MP. But I feel responsible for it my bolting stuff is in the little popo agie but I can borrow a friends and go check it out tomorrow.

bsear945 Sears · · Lander, WY · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 20

I checked both routes out today. I personally have pride in what i bolt and if something is unsafe or not right I will for sure go fix it. But for the most part all i did was take a crescent wrench and tighten the nuts. Wrenches literally cost 5-10$ at the hardware store. In my opinion it is important to communicate i.e. posting on MP but it is also very reasonable for the climbing community as a whole to fix a problem. So my "shoddy" bolts could of been fixed by you or anyone in the time it took to post this.Just think of trying to help the community and don't think that it should be done by someone else. You do not need a hammer drill to tighten a nut.

I put in a new first bolt on Diamonds and Rain. I don't think it was unsafe but I really did not drill the hole perpendicular to the wall :)

evan h · · Longmont, CO · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 360

How old were these bolts? Spinners on 10 year old bolts is understandable, but if there are multiple obviously loose bolts on fairly new equipment (especially if these are sleeve anchors), that does raise some questions. If there is side-to-side play as described above, I'm not sure that simply tightening the nuts is going to fix the problem.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Wyoming, Montana, Dakotas
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