Type: | Sport, 90 ft (27 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 1,741 total · 18/month |
Shared By: | Chuck Parks on Jul 4, 2016 · Updates |
Admins: | Stonyman Killough, Luke Cornejo, saxfiend |
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Access Issue: Don't trespass outside SCC boundaries
Details
The SCC owns only the right-hand section of Yellow Bluff. The end of this section is marked with a wooden "no trespassing" sign; do not climb or hike past this boundary, as it could jeopardize efforts to open more cliffline in the future. Also, do not top out on any climb at Yellow Bluff as this is private property.
Description
If you're only going to do one climb off the A0 ledge, this should be the one. Both pitches are super-fun.
P1) Traverse straight left off the belay ledge, following a series of bolts just above the lip of the roof. Finish at a small stance and a 2-bolt anchor. Unless you are solid at the grade, I recommend both leader and follower bring Prusiks. A fall could easily leave you hanging in outer space below the roof. (5.10b/c, 30ft.)
P2) Climb straight up off the belay. Exciting moves, gobs of exposure, and the occasional route finding crux keep you on your toes all the way to the anchors. (5.10b/c, 60ft.)
P1) Traverse straight left off the belay ledge, following a series of bolts just above the lip of the roof. Finish at a small stance and a 2-bolt anchor. Unless you are solid at the grade, I recommend both leader and follower bring Prusiks. A fall could easily leave you hanging in outer space below the roof. (5.10b/c, 30ft.)
P2) Climb straight up off the belay. Exciting moves, gobs of exposure, and the occasional route finding crux keep you on your toes all the way to the anchors. (5.10b/c, 60ft.)
Location
First pitch traverses straight left off the A0 Ledge for about 30 feet to bolted anchors. P2 goes straight up from there.
Protection
bolts, bolted anchors
We easily made it all the way to the ground from the top anchors with a 60 meter rope. If there's any doubt, you could rap down in 2 pitches but be careful as the wall is slightly overhanging.
Also be advised that the landing zone for the descent can be a minefield of poison ivy. As long as you pay attention and don't go thrashing about willy-nilly you'll be fine.
We easily made it all the way to the ground from the top anchors with a 60 meter rope. If there's any doubt, you could rap down in 2 pitches but be careful as the wall is slightly overhanging.
Also be advised that the landing zone for the descent can be a minefield of poison ivy. As long as you pay attention and don't go thrashing about willy-nilly you'll be fine.
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