Gunks rack critique

neils wrote:i didn't include every item i have - i have 1x20 ft cordelette (i think 2 might be good), several double length slings and extra shoulder length as well, several non locking wire gate biners, a few extra lockers, ATC and biner, cord for auto block, sling for rappel extension, tibloc I am sure I will refine it over time.

I agree with the grey 0.4 C4; actually that is a size I think it is worth doubling.

I don't always carry tricams, but when I do I usually have the black, pink, and red. I have placed the black once in the last two years and was quite happy to have it; nothing else would have gone there. But it is certainly a specialty piece and you don't dare fall very far on it.

It is true you can get away without the #3 Camalot. But if you have it, you will probably find a reasonable number of occasions to use it.

Agree with comments above.

Would be mindful though that as a beginning leader you are going to place more pieces than more experienced leaders. And if doing multipitch, you may end up using 3 cams on each anchor which can make a big dent into your rack.

So while you can get by with what you have you may be more comfortable trying to fill it out a bit especially in the small range and with a #3

rgold wrote: I don't always carry tricams, but when I do I usually have the black, pink, and red.

He free-climbed the Great Dihedral and Coexistence. He threaded the Eye of the Needle. RGold is... the Most Interesting Climber in the World.

awolf wrote:Agree with comments above. Would be mindful though that as a beginning leader you are going to place more pieces than more experienced leaders. And if doing multipitch, you may end up using 3 cams on each anchor which can make a big dent into your rack. So while you can get by with what you have you may be more comfortable trying to fill it out a bit especially in the small range and with a #3

I was thinking along these lines.

If money were no object I could see getting doubles of a C4 #4 and doubles of an X4 #3 or some other variable like that

Also. The OP's question was answered very well in three or four posts at the top but I'll just throw out there that I like to carry the brown Tricam too.

neils wrote: I was thinking along these lines. If money were no object I could see getting doubles of a C4 #4 and doubles of an X4 #3 or some other variable like that

I honestly cannot think of a route at the gunks that can take two #4's. It's rare that you need a #4 at all.

Rob D. wrote: I honestly cannot think of a route at the gunks that can take two #4's. It's rare that you need a #4 at all.

I suspect neils missed a decimal point. (Unless BD started making large X4s that I don't know about)

.3/4 offset x4. Really helpful size, use it alot

wivanoff wrote: I suspect neils missed a decimal point. (Unless BD started making large X4s that I don't know about)

yes that's right - i meant c4 .4 and x4 .3 :)

You have more than enough to start out with. Get some mileage with what you have and adjust as you figure out what works for you.

I didn't read everyone's posts but I would eventually add some BD microstoppers and other branded micronuts. In those tiny sizes, subtle differences in size and shape can make or break a placement. In the tiniest sizes, some offset cams come in handy (E.g. Blue/green Alien).

A couple of things I have found within the past few years that have really surprised me:

Metolius Astro Nuts

and these

rockandsnow.com/79212/Wild-…

The offsets fit better than I ever anticipated to the point where I find myself placing these more than traditional curved nuts.

Bon chance!

I love my tri cams, use the black regularly, two pinks and red. I would rather carry a couple of large hexes than a double set of cams.