Climbing at Petenwell

I'm looking for information on some of the none bolted climbs at Petenwell, along with the first accents of the bolted routes. I'm writing a guidebook for my capstone project at Minnesota State, Mankato, and any information would be very useful.

Why is there such a need within the climbing community to develop guidebooks? There are plenty of guides already out explaining routes all oner the country and with the addition of the internet guidebooks are almost obsolete. I think instead of more guidebooks describing routes we need guidebooks explaining proper ethics and style. The rock climbing community seems to be the most disfunctional of all user groups/ sports groups. Until the community becomes more responsible both socially as well as enviromentally, the idea of another guidebook being developed makes me cringe.

Most guidebooks today include a section on proper climbing ethics and style. Plus, I doubt the average climber wants to be lectured on one's own dogmatic idea of ethics and style, let alone be bored with a cookie-cutter guidebook. Climbers traditionally have been a fringe group, therefore disagreements within the community are common. Plus, the sport of climbing has many differnt communities(i.e. sport, trad, bouldering, big wall, alpine, aid, deep water soloing, etc). One set of ethics for one community of climbers may not apply to the other community. I'm sorry my guidebook will make you cring, but maybe we should all take a note from Royal Robbins after completing the second accent of the Dawn Wall using Harding's "bad style", "Although the climb may not have been done exactly to our taste, and although we might have fretful little critisms that envy always produces, we can better spend our energy in ways other than ripping and tearing, or denigrating the accomplishments of others...".

The reason I want to write this guidebook is (1) the information on the web is incomplete, and (2) it is a fun, creative project that offers experience in many disiplines.

Jay,

Thank you for your comments about Necedah. Access to Necedah is questionable, and every climber should keep that in mind when they climb there. Keeping a low profile and picking up litter would definitely give climbers a positive image. Currently, the area is trashed by visitors. Water bottles are stuck in cracks, cigarette butts have been left on rocks,and I've seen burnt clothing thrown about the trails. I don't even want to know how that happened! If we (Wisconsin) climbers want to keep our limited crags, we need to protect them and take care of them. I don't plan on publishing my guidebook or posting it on the internet. I would like if this thread was ignored or taken off because I shouldn't have written it.

Peace Out

Ryan,

I think many climbers are heartened by your response. I would like to think that climbers are not the source of the litter, but I guess that would be wishful thinking. Thank you for seeing the importance of keeping Necedah low key.

I was there the wknd before last and the parking lot was overflowing with cars. As I walked up the East trail I saw a large party with ropes and an extension ladder; (I saw no drill) but assumed they were bolting. It may be a good idea in the future to spread out to different parking areas (a walk wont kill us anyway) to avoid the attention drawn by that many vehicles. Just a thought for the future.

After years of climbing at necedah I have never encountered a nonclimber who was upset in the slightest about us climbing there. I was there this past weekend when some folks walked by the Y wall while I was leading Strait No Chaser. My buddy mike talked with them for a while as they watched me climb and they were into the whole thing. If anything, I was a hero to their kids, and an amusement to them. Has anyone ever encountered any hostility at Necedah from non climbers? The only thing that might give us a bad name is if people think we are responsible for all that fucking garbage spread about. Or, if climbers are just assholes in general to the non climbing public. Lets all just be cool... Most people think what we do is pretty amazing. Lets keep it that way. Oh, NIclips, what you saw may be a very rare phenomenon. Extension latter? Bolting? I don't know what the hell a ladder has to do with bolting a route, but I would love to know what they had it up there for...

I guess an extension ladder would suffice when presented with a tricky bottom sequence and no stick-clip is available. Ha Ha...Yeah, there are two decent parking lots at Necedah located on opposite ends of the climbing area. One to the North and a small, three car stall located to the south. Use the North lot to access Anthrax Wall, The Outsiders, the River Walls, and the Hell Wall. Others park in the south lot is access Y-Crack Wall, the Towers, the Pinnacle Wall, etc. But either lot will be better than parking on the road and really crowding things up. J.J's right, there is way too much litter at Necedah, so try to pack some out. Keep a low profile and be courteous to everyone!!!

Too bad someone wouldn't write a guidebook to raise awareness of conservation and local ethics...Ha Ha

The folks with the extension ladder were collecting "Chicken of the Woods". A large mushroom when baked can be quite tasty. These folks were not bolting but were following there hunger for a yummy mushroom. There are quite a few in the area (or were until these folks cultivated them).

And yes- there is quite a bit of trash at Neceedah. Climbers should carry a plastic garbage bag with them when climbing there and try and make an effort to pick some of it up in the immediate area they are climbing. BUT - it is important to remember that it is not climbers trashing the place. Local murading partier types throw buts and beer cans/bottles all over there.... Ever been to Gibraltor Rock in Columbia Co. and you instantly know of what I speak. It is obvious to say but climbers can do a great bit of good in being stewards of this place by helping clean it up when in the area....

Ahah! So it is the mushrooms the ladder-wielding types are after! I was wondering. I again saw a ladder being carried from the quarry wall are last Sunday. Thanx for the info.

Ryan, is your paper / book on Necedah climbing available for use somewhere?

I've been searching for a guide but haven't found one yet!

Thanks!

PM me for your email addy, I can send you a .pdf of the guide.

Also, to note, there is a new guide for DL(went to the printers today) that will also be covering Necedah. It will be way more up to date than the Hansen guide. It will be worth picking it up as soon as it ships to stores.

So...speaking of Necedah and access issues:

I've only been to Necedah once last year, but I had a great time. Didn't see too much trash, but what I did see was a ton of graffiti that really bothered me. I assume it's still there...maybe we should organize a cleanup? If climbers are seen as having not just a neutral but a positive effect (I can say with fairly strong certainty that it wasn't climbers who did this), perhaps our chances of maintaining access will be greater.

Sad to see that this was Ryan's last visit to MountainProject.

Ted, there is absolutely interest in removing that graffiti. I doubt it would make an difference with any access issues, but the rocks there are beautiful and worth cleaning up. The issue is how to do it without damaging the rock itself.

Yeah, I'm interested in doing it either way, but I figure it couldn't hurt our reputation. Unfortunately, I know nothing about Graffiti removal...maybe the Access Fund has a guide/resources?

I think EB & I are the two around here with the most experience.

I reached out to AF and we're going to set up a time to call and discuss establishing a cleanup. I'll let you guys know when I know more and/or if we make concrete plans.

Thanks for taking the initiative here Ted. I know I'd do my best to make time for this if you organized a clean up.