NEW GUIDEBOOK! SQUEEZING THE LEMMON III - Weekly to daily cliff suggestions for the changing seasons!
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yeah usually we're well over 100 in the valley right meow. |
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So after some hard realization and a bruised ego I have realized I really need to work on climbing crack systems. Anyone have some suggestions where I might be able to get a good amount of practice in? I've been thumbing through the guidebook and noted some areas but it seems pretty spread out or very committing for this type of thing. Do any of you know of somewhere on the mountain that would be a good place for this? |
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^ lol |
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Chilly 109 this coming weekend. |
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Nick0001 wrote:So after some hard realization and a bruised ego I have realized I really need to work on climbing crack systems. Anyone have some suggestions where I might be able to get a good amount of practice in? I've been thumbing through the guidebook and noted some areas but it seems pretty spread out or very committing for this type of thing. Do any of you know of somewhere on the mountain that would be a good place for this?It Crack |
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Justin Headley wrote:^ lolseconded |
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Hey all, |
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#1 could definitely be kid/baby friendly. Short approach and flat areas can be found within a few hundred yards of the cliff, though the base is often steep. |
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Thanks Paul! |
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With all due respect Paul, the flat area "within a few hundred yards" is the picnic area where you park. The base of the cliff is narrow and steep if Raycreation and Munchyland is the definition of kid friendly. |
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^^^^^ Paul Zander wrote:#1 could definitely be kid/baby friendly. Short approach and flat areas can be found within a few hundred yards of the cliff, though the base is often steep. #2 It's generally southeast facing, but there are enough trees that you can easily find shade somewhere on the ground. The walls will be pretty sunny. |
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Ended up doing the tried and true Munchkinland/Troll Wall combo yesterday. Absolutely perfect in the shade. |
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Charles, |
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Looking for the local suggestion for some climbing on your Lemon. Ill be down there this weekend from Thurs- Sunday. Yes, the hottest dayz of this Summer. Id like a full range of options but maybe a Top 5- must do's. Any grade and all styles welcome. Thanks! |
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Eric Sophiea wrote:Charles, I guide kids groups at the Havens often. There actually is a pretty good, but not large, flat area that has shade from trees most of the day. It's away from most of the climbs and pretty well protected. I use it at the "helmet free zone" for the kids groups. The only down-side is that you can't see the area very well if you're climbing on the west facing wall.Hi Eric, just saw your message. Thanks a lot for chiming in. That is exactly the kind of spot that I tend to look for, and sometimes it's not always obvious. We always have a third adult with us so no big deal if it's not directly in sight where people are climbing. Sounds like the approach isn't very long, so maybe I'll just run over and check it out one day when I'm up on the mountain. Thanks again. |
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J. Snyder wrote:Looking for the local suggestion for some climbing on your Lemon. Ill be down there this weekend from Thurs- Sunday. Yes, the hottest dayz of this Summer. Id like a full range of options but maybe a Top 5- must do's. Any grade and all styles welcome. Thanks!Reef |
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I love the new guidebook, its got good directions, good pictures and topos and a truly massive number of routes. The only thing I felt like it is missing is a couple "best of" lists. Maybe we could compile some of them here? I've seen this in other guidebooks, and thought it was a great way to sample the highlights of an area if you have a limited amount of time. A couple categories to start with and some routes as examples: |
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The star ratings in the guidebook serve as a best of; however, it would be nice to have some concise lists. If folks are so inclined we could put together lists and add them to this page: Mount Lemmon (Catalina Highway). This page could probably stand to be updated so if anyone is interested in that endeavor let me know.
My personal 4-star low 5.12 sport routes:
There are still a lot of routes that I've yet to sample or send so my list is incomplete. Upon further reflection Mountain Project's "You & This Area" search allows one to create on demand consensus best of lists; however these, while useful, suffer from popularity bias. There is something special about best of lists from individuals. I remember years ago jbak had lists of recommended 5.11s and 5.12s. I would always seek out these routes. |
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Thanks John! |
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Can ya'll recommend some areas low on the mtn for an hour or two just before sunset during the hot summer months? I'm looking for 10s and under, sport or trad after work. Slim pickins this time of year I know. IT Crack area is a bit stout. |