Suggestions for good 5.8-5.9s at Rumney

Hey guys,
I am looking for suggestions for some climbs at Rumney. I am heading up tomorrow. I have only been once before and only remember Metamorphosis by name in terms of climbs I did there. I have my eyes on some climbs, but figured it would be better to have a larger list for when climbs are not available. I generally prefer climbs that are not overly pumpy.

Thank you.

~ Gabe

Junco is fun but a super long hike. There is a great 5.8 on beginners called Curly something. Main wall and surrounding walls have plenty of moderates for you to try including metamorphosis. If you're feeling brave try armed and dangerous!!! It was "outside" my ability at the time I first hopped on but a freaking blast. The end is this rad jug haul with a great view.

Next to Junco is Lonesome Dove, it's a pretty soft 5.10 I'd even lead it [when I finally get back to Rumney I plan to]. ;-)

There's not a ton of moderates overall so you'll be more limited by the size of the crowds regarding what you can get on.

Crowd Pleaser...fantastic 2 pitch 5.8 or so. You can just do the first pitch if you're not keen on multipitch.

Andrew A. wrote:Junco is fun but a super long hike. There is a great 5.8 on beginners called Curly something. Main wall and surrounding walls have plenty of moderates for you to try including metamorphosis. If you're feeling brave try armed and dangerous!!! It was "outside" my ability at the time I first hopped on but a freaking blast. The end is this rad jug haul with a great view.

Is the "Curly something" climb Curly for President? I remember climbing that, it's called a 5.9 here which felt about right. It was decent but not real great. And the top of the wall was covered in wet and slimy moss - I grabbed the top as I clipped the anchors, thinking it would be a jug, and almost lost it.

Andrew A. wrote:Junco is fun but a super long hike.

Sorry, just have to laugh at that :)) Good suggestions otherwise.

Here are a few more mountainproject.com/scripts…

Junco is really good and it is certainly not a very long hike. Crowd pleaser is really fun and there are great 9's at northwest territories.

If you don't mind a little walking, NWT has really fun longer pitches. Part of The Final Frontier

above there at NWP is mountainproject.com/v/cozen…

Then across to the Hinterlands (Yellow Knife is temporarily closed for nesting) is a possible tour in that range >Electric Socks 5.8, Jolt or Dolt if you want 10a. Black Slabbath 5.9 is notable, and there are more 5.6-10 in the same area

Junco and Lonesome Dove (and some of the other easier climbs on that cliff) really aren't a terrible hike, don't let people scare you.

If you're leading 5.9, ABSOLUTELY get on Lonesome Dove. It is and will always be one of my favorite single pitches of sport climbing anywhere. Junco is slightly overrated IMHO but is definitely worth doing while you're up there.

Yoda (5.9) at Vader Cliff will give you a fun taste of the Rumney Overhang , is fun, and also on the way to Lonesome Dove etc.

There's a bunch down at the Parking Lot Wall and environs (Curly for Pres etc.). Squeeze my Lemon, Glory Jeans, Rise and Shine Chloe's Breakfast Special are all fun at 5.7 and up.

Crowd Pleaser +1 on Main Wall just to the right of Metamorphosis for a mellow multipitch

Really, all I can do is +1 stuff people have already recommended. You'll probably have the most fun down low close to the parking, with a short trip up towards LD and Junco. Rumney isn't known for particularly good moderates but there are those to be had.

Andrew A. wrote:Junco is fun but a super long hike....

M Sprague wrote: Sorry, just have to laugh at that :)) Good suggestions otherwise. Here are a few more mountainproject.com/scripts…

Mark’s suggestions are what you’re looking for. This site comes in very handy if you use it's intended features.
Andrew, hope you get out to a few more areas in New England for the sake of broadening approach interpretation... You’ll come to appreciate the junco walk.

Friday, I'd hit the main wall, Armed and Dangerous area:

Metamorphosis
Toxic Gumbo
Men In White Suits
Green Mile
Panama Hat (aka Mister Meaner)
The Maltese Falcon
The Anchovy Caper
Mentally Disturbed (FA)
Bonnie and Clyde (FA)

@sprague We may have taken the long way there and for sure got lost once on the way out at night. I just recall the hike up there being a good bit further than Main. Curly for prez is the one and when I climbed it was dry. I remember the tree and it feeling a good bit longer than other parking lot routes.

I'm back off to Tejas and away from these frigid winters and approaches. I literally want to slime from my couch to the crag... Maybe an off-road Segway?

Thank you for all of the suggestions. I was able to get on Metamorphosis, Green Mile, Junco, Lonesome Dove, as well as some others.

~ Gabe