Good first Gunks 5.7 leads

since limelight was brought up as a 5.7 to not climb, I would say that p1 is forgettable and the gear isn't great, but I've only climbed it once. If I'm climbing anything on the arrow wall, I climb arrow and then walk around the GT until I find a top pitch that's open. Limelight's top pitch I have never found to be overly committing gear wise (there was a tricky spot I believe but the climbing wasn't difficult through there) and compared to many of the other pg-13 climbs that have been recommended in this thread, I would put that pitch as a great early 5.7

I'd also echo the statement that Arrow would be a good route for those that are getting more comfortable in 5.7 (maybe not a good early 5.7/5.8) Arrow has a 5.6/5.7 roof at the start of p2 (which is protected by a pin and really really good gear) and the 5.8 section at the top is well within anyone's range that's leading trad at the 5.7 grade. It's not super difficult and is bolt protected.

I think Ken's is a good recommendation for someone that's a strong climber but a newer trad climber. The climbing can be pumpy, but there's never a moment when the gear is anything other than amazing. the place people fall is protected by a very obvious big piece of gear. That said, if you are physically just breaking into 5.7 it would be a bad climb to do.

strictly: I have never found the gear on there to be hard. I'm not sure where others are having problems, but I assume it's getting gear in the undercling area that is the beginning of the overhang/crux sequence. There is plentiful gear around there. again though, i was quite a strong climber the first time I did strictly's, but was just breaking into 5.7 in the gunks. ie. this is another one that maybe I find to be a good 5.7 for newer 5.7 climbers because the moves are very typical of 5.7 and if you are in shape the moves aren't particularly difficult, though very memorable.

Isn't baby now graded 5.7 somewhere? I've never thought that the move there is any harder than the crux moves on any of the 5.6's, but I've seen 5.8 leaders fall on it so maybe my body just fits that "off width" better?

Rob D. wrote:Limelight's top pitch I have never found to be overly committing gear wise (there was a tricky spot I believe but the climbing wasn't difficult through there) and compared to many of the other pg-13 climbs that have been recommended in this thread, I would put that pitch as a great early 5.7

Another vote for sleepwalk. I feel like it was a good first 5.7 for me because it was less than vertical most of the way, so I could basically stop anywhere and get my bearings.

How come Kligfield's Follies on slime wall is not in all the lists? Solid 5.7 gunks and easy to protect.

Sanllan wrote:How come Kligfield's Follies on slime wall is not in all the lists? Solid 5.7 gunks and easy to protect.

SethG wrote:And I do not disagree with the general assertion that 5.7 can be a tricky grade at the Gunks. But I think a new 5.7 leader reading this thread might be scared to do anything! Some of these concerns are a little bit overblown IMHO.

Marc801 wrote: Wow. That's just hilarious. What's the point of a post like this?

I am currently trying to break into the 5.7 grade at the gunks.
To date (for 5.7s) I have led Classic, Fancy Idiot, Sleepwalk, Katzenjammer (felt this was the hardest) and Ken's Crack (retreated after falling and giving myself a good scare)

this thread is good food for thought, or would have been for me anyways when i was breaking into the grade. fwiw my first 5.7 leads were
2nd pitch of bonnie's
1st pitch of modern times
laurel
1st pitch of erect direction (albeit a 5.8 and a little sustained but pretty straightforward and protects very well)
ken's
something interesting (backed off the 1st crux like 5 times then lowered because i was pumped and couldn't fathom hanging on through the move). I redpointed it a couple weeks later split up in 2 pitches because i sewed it up (speaks to the protectability)

I've since done more 5.7s and 5.8's but i'd say it was after having done these, I was confident to hop on that grade without detailed beta. highly recommend getting on these and the other quality routes mentioned.

again..fwiw

PS. I do agree with the sentiment that 5.7 is a funky grade. Still have loads of routes to climb but the fact that some 5.8's are more approachable to me is evidence of that. that being said, i'd say some 5.9's are more approachable than certain 5.8's :) all in all, you gotta do you!