Question about half/twin ropes

Could I use a 9.0 rope rated for half, twin and single (the sterling nano 9.0) with a rope rated for just half and twin (sterling photon 7.8), climbing on them as a pair of halves or twins, not using the 7.8 as a tagline and the single as a single.

Does that make sense haha? Are there any advantages/disadvantages to doing this, even if it is technically ok?

Yes. It doesn't make much sense if you already have a tag line but you can do it. The downside is weight and complexity. The upside is durability, reduced drag in half configuration, and full length raps.

Yes. I regularly climb with a 9.2 (single/half/twin rated) and an 8.5 half rope, using half-rope technique. I like the flexibility on long or meandering trad climbs, the redundancy, having a single-rated rope on hand in case I want to lead a segment on one rope, lots of reasons. In fact I have just worn out my skinny single, and will replace it rather than buying a matched half rope.

If you need two ropes (for rapping) or just like 2-rope technique (for safety, less drag, flexibility) then I'd recommend considering a skinny single + half rope instead of 2 half ropes, I find the flexibility outweighs the weight penalty.

As for whether to climb on the two ropes or drag/tag the half rope - I'd climb on two ropes any day! If you haven't used 2-rope technique before, it can take some practise (you & your belayer) but it has many advantages on a long trad climb.

hey alex, would you like to by a single, skinny rope :)

mountainproject.com/v/sterl…

I would - but I live in Australia....

Would using the OP's setup require you use the ropes in half-mode instead of twin-mode? I'm guessing using two non-matched twins, even though both are rated as twins, would cause problems during a fall due to the different characteristics of the two ropes.

I regularly do this when traveling. I can bring the single rope for short routes, and then I can add the half rope for longer or meandering climbs and use them both as half ropes.

Sure it's a bit more weight when climbing, but it's a better option than paying excess baggage at the airport if you take both a single and two half ropes. It's also great not to have to do single pitch sports climbs with two half ropes. Or worse, not getting to do some awesome classic because there is a 50 meter rap to get off and you only have a single rope.

Thanks for the responses

Ben Stabley wrote:Would using the OP's setup require you use the ropes in half-mode instead of twin-mode? I'm guessing using two non-matched twins, even though both are rated as twins, would cause problems during a fall due to the different characteristics of the two ropes.

I'm curious about this to. I guess if I was using them in half mode I would lead the easier bit on the photon and the hard bit on the nano (if that was an option?), at least I would want to be falling on the the nano if I was going to fall....

Adam Beach wrote:Thanks for the responses I'm curious about this to. I guess if I was using them in half mode I would lead the easier bit on the photon and the hard bit on the nano (if that was an option?), at least I would want to be falling on the the nano if I was going to fall....

Doesn't matter. What if you were using two photons as half ropes?

If you're afraid to fall on a rope rated as a half rope when using it as intended, perhaps it's best to stick to single rope.

BTW, as others have mentioned, I too sometimes combine a single rope with a half rope for DRT - especially when traveling. In my case it's a 10mm and a 8.5mm.

Lot's of versatility there. Single for leading straight lines and top roping. Use both for DRT. Lead on single and use half as a tag line. Tie in the middle of the half rope for short DRT, etc.

Just don't clip the single and half into the same piece of pro.

wivanoff wrote: Doesn't matter. What if you were using two photons as half ropes? If you're afraid to fall on a rope rated as a half rope when using it as intended, perhaps it's best to stick to single rope. BTW, as others have mentioned, I too sometimes combine a single rope with a half rope for DRT - especially when traveling. In my case it's a 10mm and a 8.5mm. Lot's of versatility there. Single for leading straight lines and top roping. Use both for DRT. Lead on single and use half as a tag line. Tie in the middle of the half rope for short DRT, etc. Just don't clip the single and half into the same piece of pro.

Just don't clip the single and half into the same piece of pro

^is this saying that I should not use the 9.0 (rated as a twin) with the photon (also rated as a twin) together because of the different characteristics that Ben Stabley speculated about?

Adam Beach wrote: Just don't clip the single and half into the same piece of pro ^is this saying that I should not use the 9.0 (rated as a twin) with the photon (also rated as a twin) together because of the different characteristics that Ben Stabley speculated about?

No. I was referring to MY use of a rope rated only as a single combined with a rope rated as half/twin. Hence my use of the words "single" and "half" in the statement "Just don't clip the single and half into the same piece of pro"

EDIT: BTW, Bearbreeder has commented multiple times in this forum about half/twin use. He had contacted one manufacturer and the posted response was that with half/twin ropes you could switch between DRT and twin clipping on the same pitch and back to DRT. Here's one thread: mountainproject.com/v/clipp…

thanks.... just asking some questions. I have a pretty good understanding but I just wanted to clarify since we throw around all sorts terms single, half, etc..

Adam Beach wrote:thanks.... just asking some questions. I have a pretty good understanding but I just wanted to clarify since we throw around all sorts terms single, half, etc..

You can find a lot of excellent information about DRT if you search rgold's posts. He's been using DRT a lot longer than I have.

Also, some of the UK sites like UKC Forum - some good videos there. DRT is a lot more common in the UK than in the States.

I agree, most confusion comes when people interchange "double" and "half". And manufacturers now blur the line when making ropes that meet multiple standards.

For the record, I see no advantage to buying ropes that are "just" twins (unless iceclimbing). "Most" halfs also qualify as twins. Some, as you mentioned, qualify as half, single and twin.