kid friendly multi-pitch route suggestions

I am planning to take my 8 year old up something tall in NH this (26th June 2016) weekend. We will be climbing as a party of 3 (2 adult leaders).

Current plan is Upper Refuse on Cathedral but was hoping someone in the know could point me to something less crowded.

(Loose) Constraints:
1. 5.5ish
2. More face than crack climbing
3. No crazy traverses.
4. No crazy long hike in - up to 30 minutes-ish should be doable.
5. Yes, I am aware of Clippity-do-dah

A good option would be to do Standard Route on Whitehorse, though the hike off is a little long.

If "multi pitch" goes down as far as "only 2 pitches", check out Rainbow off the Kanc. ( WM:Eastern Kancamangus) If you walk in from the covered bridge it's probably 30-40 min. Also Table Mtn., although the approach hike is just a bit longer than 30 min (45-50) and more "up" than Rainbow. The Carpet Slab on Lost Ledge (20 min. approach) has some climbs that can be done in 2 pitches also ("Carpet Slabber" and "4-Holes") although both can be done in one long pitch too.

JSH wrote:White's ledge, in Bartlett - takes a few pitches to get up, but mostly face climbing and straight up, easy approach, and an easy walk down. There are a couple of routes up the main face that are pretty similar -- mostly easy with a few actual moves in there.

Every body has an opinion,no doubt, but that sounds like a terrible idea.
Ha Ha
Endeavor is pretty solid 7 and reachy. Loose rock as well.
Sounds like a recipe for not so fun an outing with an 8 year old.

There are several reasonable multi-pitch climbs in that grade range on the lower slabs of Mt. Willard in Crawford Notch. Approach from the parking lot at the top of the notch along the train tracks---just be aware of the train schedule!!!

Beginners Route on Whitehorse Slabs

1 that needs to come with warnings :
New Hampshire > *Cathedral Ledge >

~Thin Air T 5.6~

Thinner T 5.8 Pg
Turner's Flake T 5.8
Standard Route T 5.7

~Thin Air YDS: 5.6 Average: 3.4 stars

(301 votes)
Type: Trad, 4 pitches, 300', Grade II
Original: YDS: 5.6 [details]
FA: John Turner & Craig Merrihue , Aug. 1956

Page views over 34,463

Description
Although the crux fourth pitch earns this classic climb's 5.6 rating, new and seasoned climbers alike find adventure on each of Thin Air's pitches.
P1- The run-out (but easy) first pitch gains fixed bong anchors.

P2- Pitch two's traverse protects well, but offers a keen pucker as the ground drops away (and it's sometimes a little wet) en route to bolts. P1 and P2 can be combined when traffic allows.

P3- Pitch three climbs the face into a fun chimney, gaining a ledge (crowds easily, gear anchor takes variety of sizes and gear types).

P4- Starts off following a weakness through an overlap, continues up an shallow corner system, steps left, then up a few feet, then back right, [this last sequence is considered the crux] then up gaining the large ledge below Pine Tree Eliminate (5.8+) via an easy, dirty corner (left) or...climb up and right easily and then get confronted by a tricky, polished slab (5.7 R)

P5? - Many finish the last 30 feet (going left up the "dirty corner") as a separate pitch.
Location
The namesake route of the Thin Air Face is found by following the trail past Cote Boulder past improbable aid routes until the staircase start of the Standard Route chimney is visible on the right. Continue up switchbacks to a dark-brown, featured slab.

Descent:

One descent is by following a trail off the right end of the ledge.

This trail bends left and gains the summit road in minutes.

Hitch or walk down road.

Other pleasant options include climbing Pine Tree Eliminate
or other more difficult Airation Buttress routes.

Other descent options:

Walking the road is more than twice as long as:

1) the climber's trail

and/or

2) the mountain bike path.

For the climber's trail from the end of Thin Air hike off to the right,
BELAY THIS WITH CHILDREN & 1st TIMERS
make an easy step up, keep going right until you come to a small step/switch back
to get above the smaller crags at the top of the cliff,
then head down and right staying pretty close to the cliff edge.

This unofficial climbers trail is a bit gritty in spots

approach shoes are nicer than flip flops.

It will bring you down to the North End ice climbing area in about 15 minutes.

A faster, and more enjoyable descent,

is to use the relatively new mountain bike path.

Same as for the climbers trail but after the little switch back trend left a bit towards the road and you should pick up the gentle path.

To be 100% positive it crosses the auto road where the big flat rock is about 100 feet down from the parking lot.

This path is the perfect angle with soft footing to be able to really cruise down, easily bringing you back to the bottom in about 10-12 minutes.

It's best IMO to climb with small packs so you do not need to hike back up the base of the route.

Protection
Nuts and cams up to 3 inches.

Warnings:

Oct 14, 2014
rating: 5.6

Did this on Monday after a weekend of climbing hard in Rumney. We had the route all to ourselves. Definitely classic - for the experience - the climbing is very easy, but I am glad to have done it. Do Airation (5.11a fingercrack) after the last pitch of thin air - it's the icing on the cake.

By Russ Keane
Aug 24, 2015

The runout 5.2 on the first pitch always gets me. Is there really no pro from the ground all the way up to the little pillar like 40 feet up? This is weird for such a beginner classic climb.

By tomde01

From: New York
Sep 21, 2015
rating: 5.6 R

I would not recommend the route for a beginner.

While the first pitch is easy, the first piece of gear is around 40ft up
and seems detached.

A fall would be catastrophic.

With that said though, the rest of the climb is great.

I recommend linking pitches 1 and 2, they link easy without route drag
(not sure why they are split up into separate pitches).

I also recommend climbing up the pine tree eliminator
to reach the top, since the route ends right in front of it.

I climbed it naturally since it was in front of me.

• ^*^V**V

By NEAlpineStart
From: Conway, New Hampshire
Oct 12, 2015

Regarding the descent info here I would suggest some edits.
The road option is more than twice as long as the climber's trail and a mountain bike path.

For the climber's trail from the end of Thin Air hike off to the right, make an easy step up,
keep going right until you come to a small step/switch back to get above the smaller crags at the top of the cliff,
then
head down and right staying pretty close to the cliff edge.

This unofficial climbers trail is a bit gritty in spots and approach shoes are nicer than flip flops. It will bring you down to the North End ice climbing area in about 15 minutes.

A faster, and more enjoyable descent, is to use the relatively new mountain bike path.
Same as for the climbers trail but after the little switch back trend left a bit towards the road and you should pick up the gentle path.

To be 100% positive it crosses the auto road where the big flat rock is about 100 feet down from the parking lot. This path is the perfect angle with soft footing to be able to really cruise down, easily bringing you back to the bottom in about 10-12 minutes.

It's best IMO to climb with small packs so you do not need to hike back up the base of the route.

Finally there is a rappel option with double ropes

but it is a bit tricky to get to,

involving no-fall 4th class terrain, and is over a very popular route, The Saigons.

If you decide to rappel be extra considerate of those below you,
and don't use the trees that used to be used in the old Handren guide, their root systems are compromised.

1) I agree with Doguen about "Endeavor/ White's Ledge"..probably not the best early in a multi-pitch "career".

2) Al is correct about Willard. "Hugo's" is 4 pitches, most 5.5 or so, one pitch maybe 5.6, but I think a long reach. (There's a bolted alternate start at P1 that's about 5.7) Hugo's you would probably want to rap off.

Star Trek also is also 5.5 - (5.6 maybe) for 4 pitches, then rap down.

Re' the approach to Willard...more and more people are using the Hattie's Garden approach trail. It's about 1/2 the total time and 1/8th the time that you're actually on the RR Tracks. It's described in MtnPfroject.

Thanks everyone for the suggestions.

We ended up climbing Upper Refuse (traversing in from the top). The climbing was difficult in a couple of places for my daughter - where a bit of crack technique and/or use of somewhat thin feet were required. But I was right there behind her on a second rope, so things worked out very well.

More importantly, she had a great day - the views, hanging out at such an unlikely place, lovely dog waiting patiently for its owner on the ledge, appreciation of the sight-seers at the top, swim in Echo Lake, ice cream at Pie Hole.

Cheers

Sounds like you--and, most importantly, your daughter, had a perfect day. Hopefully, as a result, there will be more such days to follow. Cherish them. Alan

I don't know why people overlook Artist Bluff for the kiddos. It's got short hike, easy access, and nice solid rock - break it up into 3 pitches with a fantastic finish on the overlook and then go down to the beach for a full value day for the family - mountainproject.com/v/stand…

See if they can handle Lakeview.... !!!