semi indirect belay from the bottom

Andrew Wood wrote: yea, anchor from the haul loop and keep it just so the lighter belayer doesn't slam into the first piece of pro. They will most likely end up airborne but remained tethered keeping them properly orientated to continue belaying.

Andrew Wood wrote: ok safety nazi, tell me again about all the times you kept a climber safe that has 80lbs on you

Andrew Wood wrote: I've worked in customer service and public relations since I was 9 years old. Have fun approaching me when I am not in a professional environment. And yes, I still have job opportunities based on my work ethic from before middle school.

Andrew Wood wrote: this one time I dreamed about a turtle and thought about how it's shell is a circle and how the earth is round and now the turtle is earth. OK boy, tell me again about how the forces in this system will cause anything but the simulated discomfort of a belt you put on one notch too tight. get out of here with your what ifs, boy.

Andrew Wood wrote: attach backpack full of your water and unused gear to her haul loop. jesus christ, it's not that hard, make it work and stop worrying if it's OSHA approved

Andrew Wood wrote: why don't you throw away your chinese harness made by a sell out company ***Black Diamond*** and buy an american harness that is load rated on all points like a normal patriot O wait a minute, REI doesn't like to sell american made harnesses, they would rather sell chinese climbing harnesses. How thoughtful of them to help out the local economy of some foreign country. Too bad I can't afford to travel to China and work in their climbing gear factories where they don't individually test each piece of gear. hmmmmmm let me just sit here and think about that for a minute...an american company is outsourcing manufacturing to a foreign country and then using an american company to sell said foreign imports as direct competition to localy sourced goods, wow, what a stable business model. Gee! I'll buy black diamond exclusively from now on, I hate those local businesses that employ americans. Who else hates isolationism economics?

I'll say it. It'll get flagged but I don't give a fuck, someone needs to say it.

Andrew. You are a complete fucking tool. You're so gumby that you don't have any inkling about the wealth of information that you're not privvy to. Please go back to Crossfit or flag football or whatever other toolish pursuit you were a part of before you decided you wanted to be Captain Climber. I've read worse posts on MP before, but not many. What you're questioning is common knowledge to anyone that has more than three months of climbing under their belt, and your air of superiority which is nothing short of misplaced and completely inappropriate as a result, is so stifling that I swear I can smell it through my ethernet cable and it's making me gag. Put away your Evolv Defys, and your swiss seat and your figure 8 and please just go away.

that guy named seb wrote:I think i understand what he is trying to do, by adding a Italian hitch on the first draw to increase friction, basically a improvised version of edelrids new little device, the OHM.

Yes i am very excited for when this finally hits the market, should help solve some of my problems

Old lady H wrote:Shouldn't the belayer be making these decisions? Juussstt sayin. So, 130ish pound belayer here. Trying it out in the gym, i know I can "manage" someone up to around 210 on short top rope routes. If they start bouncing around, I will be pulled up, but not a big deal. Sometimes I add weight(s), sometimes not, depending on what my climber will be up to and what I think is best, and what is more comfortable. I personally prefer the weight to be attached in front, so I can drag it around where ever I want it. The belay often changes during the climb, or for the lower. The belayer does have to understand what will happen in a fall, where they will go, but the belayer should always be thinking about the "what ifs". If I absolutely had to tie in to something outside (hasn't happened yet, but I'm prepared to do so), I think I would consider building an anchor, if the consequences were serious enough, with only enough length on the tether to keep me from going overboard or whacking a roof. Belaying a lead climber, especially trad, has a lot more to consider. My usual partner is still in a reasonable weight range from me (I am comfortable up to about 160), but I always consider all the variables before deciding how to work the belay. Outside, I would much prefer to avoid being tethered. Mobility is too important to a safe belay. Why not have her lead? If you are on top rope it isn't as big a deal for her to belay you. She might only need a little extra weight, or maybe none at all. By the way, belay gloves are a good idea too. Your hand gets eaten by the ATC long before you get yanked to the bolt, neither much fun, but gloves could be life or death if something dramatic has to happen to keep you from splatting.

She does not like leading, really only interested in top roping at the moment so i try to only climb what will be in her grade so she can have fun as well. I was just looking for a solution to present to her that will make her more comfortable where we are right now (like I said very low roof and she gets pulled up into it).

don'tchuffonme wrote: I'll say it. It'll get flagged but I don't give a fuck, someone needs to say it. Andrew. You are a complete fucking tool. You're so gumby that you don't have any inkling about the wealth of information that you're not privvy to. Please go back to Crossfit or flag football or whatever other toolish pursuit you were a part of before you decided you wanted to be Captain Climber. I've read worse posts on MP before, but not many. What you're questioning is common knowledge to anyone that has more than three months of climbing under their belt, and your air of superiority which is nothing short of misplaced and completely inappropriate as a result, is so stifling that I swear I can smell it through my ethernet cable and it's making me gag. Put away your Evolv Defys, and your swiss seat and your figure 8 and please just go away.

This site really needs a like button.

I just want to point out that Andrew Wood is NOT from Colorado.

don'tchuffonme wrote: I'll say it. It'll get flagged but I don't give a fuck, someone needs to say it. Andrew. You are a complete fucking tool. You're so gumby that you don't have any inkling about the wealth of information that you're not privvy to. Please go back to Crossfit or flag football or whatever other toolish pursuit you were a part of before you decided you wanted to be Captain Climber. I've read worse posts on MP before, but not many. What you're questioning is common knowledge to anyone that has more than three months of climbing under their belt, and your air of superiority which is nothing short of misplaced and completely inappropriate as a result, is so stifling that I swear I can smell it through my ethernet cable and it's making me gag. Put away your Evolv Defys, and your swiss seat and your figure 8 and please just go away.

ew. I climb barefoot and if I do put on shoes, they're going to be real leather in the shape of an actual foot.

don'tchuffonme wrote: I'll say it. It'll get flagged but I don't give a fuck, someone needs to say it. Andrew. You are a complete fucking tool. You're so gumby that you don't have any inkling about the wealth of information that you're not privvy to. Please go back to Crossfit or flag football or whatever other toolish pursuit you were a part of before you decided you wanted to be Captain Climber. I've read worse posts on MP before, but not many. What you're questioning is common knowledge to anyone that has more than three months of climbing under their belt, and your air of superiority which is nothing short of misplaced and completely inappropriate as a result, is so stifling that I swear I can smell it through my ethernet cable and it's making me gag. Put away your Evolv Defys, and your swiss seat and your figure 8 and please just go away.

+1

Andrew Wood wrote: ew. I climb barefoot and if I do put on shoes, they're going to be real leather in the shape of an actual foot.

Of course you do, and of course they are.

Mark E Dixon wrote:I just want to point out that Andrew Wood is NOT from Colorado.

I was born in joshua tree at the flatirons. they say the first thing I did was chalk up. For the first decade of my life I climbed the 14ers while singing my favorite rick astley songs. One day I aspire to invent a specialty dye for my chalk that will permantly mark anything chalked with rainbows and glitter. In my free time I like to travel to sport climb destinations and make "last ascents" before I chop bolts and chip holds

Lance Ruggles wrote: She does not like leading, really only interested in top roping at the moment so i try to only climb what will be in her grade so she can have fun as well. I was just looking for a solution to present to her that will make her more comfortable where we are right now (like I said very low roof and she gets pulled up into it).

Hi Lance!
You've got some pretty good, simple answers here, if you (wisely) ignore the pissants.

Sorry she's not ready to lead, but at least she's got a thoughtful, caring, rope gun!

The simple way to think of it, is as a boat anchor for her, OR an anchor in the climbing sense. Either way, she is on a tether to it, and can still belay as usual. Or, an indirect belay, which I can't speak to myself. Yet. :-)

Remind her to visualize what will happen when the whole works is suddenly pulled tight, and it will be easy to decide where to be positioned, and which method to use.

And, rgold is, well, rock solid. Anything he suggests is an excellent, often elegant, solution.

Best, H. :-)

Old lady H wrote: Hi Lance! You've got some pretty good, simple answers here, if you (wisely) ignore the pissants. Sorry she's not ready to lead, but at least she's got a thoughtful, caring, rope gun! The simple way to think of it, is as a boat anchor for her, OR an anchor in the climbing sense. Either way, she is on a tether to it, and can still belay as usual. Or, an indirect belay, which I can't speak to myself. Yet. :-) Remind her to visualize what will happen when the whole works is suddenly pulled tight, and it will be easy to decide where to be positioned, and which method to use. And, rgold is, well, rock solid. Anything he suggests is an excellent, often elegant, solution. Best, H. :-)

Yes thank you for your thoughts! Its usually not a problem but like i said where we have been for the last week has been different so was looking for something new to try out. Its weird to see what came out of me misreading something while enjoying a glass of wine...

Yeah, amazing how brilliant we can become...

That said, I apologize for "pissants" above. Should have been "pissant COMMENTS"! Andrew, i apologize. You sound like you do have experience, and could contribute plenty. Flying off into....whatever...on the internubs is not a fair measure of you in general, or any of us, I hope!

Seriously, my personal mess has been lifelong, periodic, struggles with depression, and if I drink or drug, I am at far greater risk of dying than I ever will be climbing. So, my drugs of choice are coffee, chocolate, sugar and happiness, and I truly get that a great many of us have stuff going on in our lives, hopefully not too serious, and only temporary. But, if you ever catch me forgetting this and being less than compassionate, please wang slap at will! Besides, the phrase "wang slap" makes the Old Lady smile.

Best to all, Helen

Andrew Wood wrote: get out of here with your what ifs, boy.

Are you joking? Get out of here with your gumby shit, andrew. Our sport is BUILT around redundancy, i.e. 'what ifs'. The context is a little different, I'll grant it, but OP is asking for knowledge; giving unsound, borderline bad advice then arguing to death that you're right is classic horseshit.

climbing friend,

you are going to do the dying

Reinke Meints wrote: Are you joking? Get out of here with your gumby shit, andrew. Our sport is BUILT around redundancy, i.e. 'what ifs'. The context is a little different, I'll grant it, but OP is asking for knowledge; giving unsound, borderline bad advice then arguing to death that you're right is classic horseshit.

You must forgive Andrew for all his tough-guy talk. He was forced into child slave labor at the tender age of 9 and has anger issues with society. I'm sure he is deep into counseling and will eventually regret such ugly comments. We're rooting for you, Andrew. I think.

don'tchuffonme wrote: I'll say it. It'll get flagged but I don't give a fuck, someone needs to say it. Andrew. You are a complete.....

I'd tell him to go get a girlfriend but he's probably "...had a girlfriend since I was 9 years old. Have fun approaching girls when I'm at the disco bustin a move. And yes, I still have girlfriend opportunities based on my massive bulge and highly tuned piping abilities from before middle school."

David Peterson wrote: I'd tell him to go get a girlfriend but he's probably "...had a girlfriend since I was 9 years old. Have fun approaching girls when I'm at the disco bustin a move. And yes, I still have girlfriend opportunities based on my massive bulge and highly tuned piping abilities from before middle school."

do you always talk about 9 year old's sex life as a topic on the internet? I am triggered.

Andrew Wood wrote: do you always talk about 9 year old's sex life as a topic on the internet? I am triggered.

Nah, you misunderstand; you're assuming I thought you were 9 years old in middle school, but judging by your responses I'd guess you were significantly older during that time.

David Peterson wrote: Nah, you misunderstand; you're assuming I thought you were 9 years old in middle school, but judging by your responses I'd guess you were significantly older during that time.

I find it rather disgusting that you would discuss the sex life of a 9 year old. please learn to not be such a creepy pervert. Talking about a 9 year old's "bulge" is beyond inappropriate.

Andrew Wood wrote: I find it rather disgusting that you would discuss the sex life of a 9 year old. please learn to not be such a creepy pervert. Talking about a 9 year old's "bulge" is beyond inappropriate.

Easy there, Andrew, no one's talkin' or wants to talk about that kind of stuff. In my defense, I meant your current bulge, not anything you may have had in the past... Didn't think it would ruffle your jimmies so much, you seem pretty even keeled, wont' happen again.