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NC Wall Beta

Original Post
Shilpa · · Asheville, NC · Joined Nov 2008 · Points: 0

So, I've wanted to do the Linville Crusher for years, planning on doing it this summer before I move away in the fall, but having a tricky time deciding on an NC wall route.

The only climb I've done on the NC Wall is Bumblee Buttress, which isn't an option because of the Peregrine closures. I've been looking into other NC Wall routes that we can do as part of the Crusher, but have no idea where Tightrope is, and since the closures are listed as between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress, that is a useful thing to know.

There's no beta on the MP or the NC Guidebook I have for Tightrope. I did find an MP post from 2014 where the route is mentioned, and from that post it sounds like it is near the Mossy Monster, so that would leave me with routes on Apricot Buttress and routes south of Bumblebee, I think.

Would love any beta, and correct me if I'm wrong on any of this.

Brie Abram · · Celo, NC · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 493

Apricot Jam doesn't close. In spite of that, some lazy folks :) do an easier "crusher" by doing Prow (technically the far right end of NC Wall) and either Mummy or Daddy.

Mike F · · Arden, NC · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 56

Second Brian's statement. I've done the lazy crusher myself owing to the falcon closures, plus it's super fast/easy to knock out the daddy, rap the gully, and then climb the prow right up to where your food/pack/whatever cache is.

Shilpa · · Asheville, NC · Joined Nov 2008 · Points: 0

Going to do Apricot Jam tomorrow (or at least check out the approach depending on if it actually rains tonight). There are some routes further south of Bumblebee that I'd consider if they aren't impacted by the closures (Tarantula or The Corner, maybe). If I don't find any beta on where the route Tightrope is (aka where the closures start) then Apricot Jam it is, I don't want to risk going against the closures.

That's funny about the Prow, I always thought it was part of the Amphitheater until I started looking into the Crusher some more and read a blog post that Eric Heistand wrote. It would be a lot less walking to do that as the NC Wall climb, but I'd like to do Apricot Jam or another route instead. Of course, that's assuming Apricot Jam doesn't kick our butts tomorrow!

Mike F · · Arden, NC · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 56

Funny I did that w/ Eric my second go! Small world. Have fun!

nbrown · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 7,718

Shilpa,

Tightrope is ~ 200' south of mossy monster. That means pretty much everything on the main wall is closed. Mashburns/Sphinx is open though if you're just looking to do some quality NC-wall bushwhacking.

Brian Payst · · Carrboro,NC · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 10

Tightrope is left of Direct Action at the left end of the NC Wall. It's one of the first routes on the NC Wall proper, left of Something Else. Basically the wall from Bumblebee Buttress to climbers left is closed.

nbrown · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 7,718

Brian, unless something has changed, the wall right of Bumblebee is closed too, all the way to the Prow (which is open). The wording is something like: from tightrope to the Limey (just left of the Prow). Too bad because there's a lot of good climbing on the right side of the NC wall past bumblebee.

Brian Payst · · Carrboro,NC · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 10

Nathan , the closure can change from year to year. This year for the NC wall they listed "all climbing routes between and including tightrope and bumblebee buttress". Full closure notice is posted on the CCC web site: carolinaclimbers.org/closures

nbrown · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 7,718

Thanks Brian, I don't ever remember them doing that before, so that's good to hear. That leaves open quite a few good lines to do.

Best routes are:
Mitzietsusparen 9+
Tarantula 10--
Eureka 10+
Shake and Bake 11b
Lost in Time 10

Worst routes:
The Corner
Slimey
Zagger

Question: Is it still illegal to walk below the closure area (I always thought so)? If it is then the approach is still doable but would need to be sussed out beforehand.

Shilpa · · Asheville, NC · Joined Nov 2008 · Points: 0

Thanks Brian and Nathan!

Great news that there are other route options. I've also been under the impression that it's illegal to walk under the closure areas, but that could be false.

Might try and check out an alternate approach to the right side of the NC wall tomorrow if Apricot Jam is wet. If it isn't too bad getting down there then Tarantula might be a good route to do...we'll see, adventure either way.

Brian Payst · · Carrboro,NC · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 10
Shilpa wrote: I've also been under the impression that it's illegal to walk under the closure areas, but that could be false.
Trail closures can vary by location. For the LG closures, the closure notice says "hiking is permitted", so it should be OK. We post the official closure notice we get from the Forest Service on the closures page on the CCC website, they are worth checking out as the closure areas can vary and they have important details like whether hiking is permitted. Those are the guidelines issued by the Forest Supervisor and are what would be enforced. Best advice would be when in doubt, err on the side of not disturbing the birds, you can always go back.

An adventure is pretty much guaranteed in Linville. Have fun, take water and be careful.
Shilpa · · Asheville, NC · Joined Nov 2008 · Points: 0

Thanks Brian - I did check the CCC website (that's actually how this whole thread got started - me trying to figure out where Tightrope is!) and it looks like Apricot Jam is the way to go. But getting more info into the NC wall makes me excited to get back there in the fall. Now, just crossing my fingers that the weather is good during the days we have open to go out and do this thing.

Thanks for all the beta everyone!

Jcastleberry · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 192

Falcon closures lifted.

Brian Payst · · Carrboro,NC · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 10

Yes, as of July 6th all of the NC closures have been lifted. There were 20 fledglings this year across Western NC, although the Linville nests did not succeed this year. Looking Glass was the most productive with 4 chicks fledging.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern States
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