Dean's Day Off
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British PG13
Avg: 3.9 from 10 votes
Type: | Trad, 115 ft (35 m) |
FA: | Henry Barber, Steve Shea, belayed by a young Pat Adams |
Page Views: | 3,439 total · 17/month |
Shared By: | Alex Shainman on Sep 6, 2007 |
Admins: | Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
This is a historically proud ascent.... Aren't all of his routes, though? It is one of the state's classic, must-do, single pitches at the grade.
Barefoot and with only funky nuts!! Oh, and a solid wit and BIG balls!
With sticky rubber shoes, it's still a challenge, but modern gear makes it much safer, for sure.
I wish I could give it the full 4 stars it deserves. Its only blight (unless I didn't follow the FFA true line) is the rotten chimney for the 1st 1/3 of its length. Perhaps Henry followed the face to its left, but I entered the nasty (but easy) chimney.
Exit to a smooth section of slab and thin crack. Place small but good brass action, and tiptoe up a 5.11 balance crux with a slight runout. The wall steepens considerably here, and the crack widens to accept fingers. Get good gear of TCU/Alien, power up with cool layaways and jams and crimps, and don't stop till you get to the top. A two bolt rap anchor is at a distance of 35m from the ground.
The upper 2/3rds of the route is very classic and truly inspiring to know in what style it went up!!
Barefoot and with only funky nuts!! Oh, and a solid wit and BIG balls!
With sticky rubber shoes, it's still a challenge, but modern gear makes it much safer, for sure.
I wish I could give it the full 4 stars it deserves. Its only blight (unless I didn't follow the FFA true line) is the rotten chimney for the 1st 1/3 of its length. Perhaps Henry followed the face to its left, but I entered the nasty (but easy) chimney.
Exit to a smooth section of slab and thin crack. Place small but good brass action, and tiptoe up a 5.11 balance crux with a slight runout. The wall steepens considerably here, and the crack widens to accept fingers. Get good gear of TCU/Alien, power up with cool layaways and jams and crimps, and don't stop till you get to the top. A two bolt rap anchor is at a distance of 35m from the ground.
The upper 2/3rds of the route is very classic and truly inspiring to know in what style it went up!!
Photos
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3 Comments