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Wisconsin Guidebook history

Double J · · Sandy, UT · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 3,931

@Petah. Email sent.

Petah Lenz · · minneapolis/st.paul · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 205

I just inquired with the Mankato State University Library and Ryan Hansen's graduate advisor - no hard copies of the Necedah book seem to exist!

Alan Rubin · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 10

I'll have to look at the date but I'm pretty sure I have an earlier draft of the CMC 'prelim.' guidebook (though it looks the same as the one pictured). I moved away from Madison (and Devil's Lake) in spring, '67 and I know that I had my copy of the prelim. guide while I was still there--and did a lot of annotations. I also have Errol's guidebook--or at least an early draft of it. I know that at one time I had a copy of a 'baseline sketch' of the main section of the East Bluffs with the then known routes labeled and many prospective ones identified. This was made--in one night, from memory according to 'legend', in the early/mid. '60s by Peter Gardiner, at the time a grad student at the U. of Chi., who had climbed at the Lake with John Gill. This was the only guide to the Lake during much of the time ('63-'67) that I climbed there and was extremely rare. Much to my chagrin, my copy disappeared years ago but possibly Rich Goldstone or one of the other U. of Chi. climbers of that era still has a copy. The bad news is that I am also a collector (let alone that both surviving books are very much a part of my personal 'history')so have no intention of selling. Can make copies and send them to you if you wish. Alan Rubin

Alan Rubin · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 10

I'm a fossil---therefore very bad in the 'tech' department--hence scanning is beyond my ken. But I'll see if I can get some help in that department and give it a try. First I'll have to dig out the originals from my not the best organized library. Alan

Doug Hemken · · Madison, WI · Joined Oct 2004 · Points: 13,668

There are a number of us who are amateur historians!

Especially the copies that have your personal annotations should end up in a library or archive somewhere, Al.

Alan Rubin · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 10

The annotations aren't special, I basically was trying to 'mesh' the often not very comprehensible route descriptions in the CMC prelim guidebook with my own knowledge and Pete's sketch. I'll see what I can do about getting them scanned.

chris tregge · · Madison WI · Joined May 2007 · Points: 11,036
Petah wrote:I just inquired with the Mankato State University Library and Ryan Hansen's graduate advisor - no hard copies of the Necedah book seem to exist!
Dobbe has a copy if you have to feel the paper in your hand...
Petah Lenz · · minneapolis/st.paul · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 205

Chris treggE - is this copy available, as in for sale?

Petah Lenz · · minneapolis/st.paul · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 205
Petah Lenz · · minneapolis/st.paul · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 205

Does anyone know about this magazine? Jon?

It seems to be Wisconsin-focused.

Gilbert, Jan-Feb 2002

Gilbert #II, 2002

Gilbert DL article

The Midwest had its own climbing magazine! From 1998 to 200?, Vertical Jones was published out of Minneapolis. It was started by Stephen Regenold, who now runs gearjunkie.com

Vertical Jones, #1 - #8, and #10

chris tregge · · Madison WI · Joined May 2007 · Points: 11,036
Petah wrote:Chris treggE - is this copy available, as in for sale?
Oh I sure doubt it! Maybe the only one still around?
Petah Lenz · · minneapolis/st.paul · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 205

Very likely the only one still around! I'd hang on to it too!

Alan Rubin · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 10

I haven't been able to locate my copy of the Errol Morris guide--my Midwest information is pretty well buried, unfortunately, but I have found my copy of the CMC prelim. guide. My copy is dated 1965, but I think it is from the same 'batch' as yours. I notice that on your photo of the book it has the number "59" written in the upper right corner. Mine has "81", so I'm assuming that yours was distributed prior to mine. My book is written in a very discursive style--almost move by move at times, with no grades, and few route names. The focus, both as stated in the introduction and in fact, was more on the longer 'routes' as mountaineering training than on climbs done 'for difficulty'--though a few of the latter--almost always described as a "tour de force"--were described. Is this the same as yours?

My annotations , such as they are, are scribbled in pencil in an effort to identify at least some of the routes as we knew them. I clearly gave up pretty quickly!!!!

I'll keep 'digging' for the Morris guide and any other relics I might find.

Alan

Doug Hemken · · Madison, WI · Joined Oct 2004 · Points: 13,668

Alan, who were the other two members of the "terrible trio"?

Tradiban · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2004 · Points: 11,610
Petah wrote:Does anyone know about this magazine? Jon? It seems to be Wisconsin-focused. Gilbert, Jan-Feb 2002 The Midwest had its own climbing magazine! From 1998 to 200?, Vertical Jones was published out of Minneapolis. It was started by Stephen Regenold, who now runs gearjunkie.com
HOLY SHIT! Where did you find a copy of "Gilbert"?!?!? That was a Onion-esque mag started by former Boulders GM and Drinking Society Executair Todd M. A RARE CLASSIC!
Alan Rubin · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 10
Doug Hemken wrote:Alan, who were the other two members of the "terrible trio"?
John Behrens---last I heard living in the Boulder, CO area and Gary Berg--whom I haven't heard of in years but I understand is/was a doctor and remained around Madison.

John came to Madison as a grad student from southern Illinois where he was one of the early developers of climbing in that area (Giant City). He moved to Boulder in the late '60s (?) and climbed a fair amount with fellow DL refugee Jim Erickson in Eldorado Springs including a number of new routes. Even in Boulder, however, he would occasionally still revert to his Trio roots, as I witnessed on occasions when I ran into him there. Gary's climbing, I believe, was limited to his 'Trio years'---clearly the sanest of the 3.
Double J · · Sandy, UT · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 3,931

Doug,
Their is quite a difference between the 1st and 2nd edition of the bouldering guide, 'Get on it'. the 2nd edition is way cooler.

SteveS · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2006 · Points: 2,420

Jon, there are also some small bouldering printouts that EZ made that didn't make the final "Git On It" guide. 1-2 were in a Climbing/Rock and Ica mag back in the day. Think I still have a copy if you'd like it. Then he also made single sheets for Greatest Show, Burma and the Reserve if I remember right. I got copies from Pete at Wildside a long time ago so it might be worth dropping by and seeing if he still has those.

O'dude O'Connell · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 15
Peter Schmitz · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 10
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Midwest
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