Mountain Project Logo

How comfortable are you at your max solo grade?

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
s.price wrote:First off, enough chest thumping. Second, NO ONE cares about your GO Pro solo except for you. And last, WHAT a tool.
+1
that guy named seb · · Britland · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 236
Marc801 wrote: No. Talking, and, especially, showing, with gopro footage, of your soloing *is* spraying. The grade is irrelevant.
Did you really just say the grade is irrelevant when spraying?
Andrew Wood · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 60
that guy named seb wrote: Fixed!
the traverse looked sketchy
that guy named seb · · Britland · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 236
Andrew Wood wrote: the traverse looked sketchy
It is when you are trying to remember foot beta from over a week ago, i feel like i would have been better off approaching the slab as if i hadn't climbed it before, me not being able to see the feet i thought i remembered was kinda annoying. It's actually a really really easy slab, it's just kinda delicate, i have actually done it in super bad conditions (6ft of visibility pea soup) that being said it still kinda sketches me out a bit every time i do it though.
Mathias · · Loveland, CO · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 306

Why aren't you spraying on UKC or some other British climbing site where someone might know the route?

that guy named seb · · Britland · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 236
Mathias wrote:Why aren't you spraying on UKC or some other British climbing site where someone might know the route?
because i don't want to spray, i just want to talk about soloing.
Andrew Wood · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 60
that guy named seb wrote: It is when you are trying to remember foot beta from over a week ago, i feel like i would have been better off approaching the slab as if i hadn't climbed it before, me not being able to see the feet i thought i remembered was kinda annoying. It's actually a really really easy slab, it's just kinda delicate, i have actually done it in super bad conditions (6ft of visibility pea soup) that being said it still kinda sketches me out a bit every time i do it though.
the fog turned into soup???? what have I been doing with my life

also, the slab where I'm at is not friendly in the fog.

there's a chill 5.9 down here that ends slabby and polished, but if you reach up high enough theres this bomber side pull mono jug to clip chains from
Mathias · · Loveland, CO · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 306
that guy named seb wrote: because i don't want to spray, i just want to talk about soloing.
So the spray is a byproduct. Got it.
Glenn Schuler · · Monument, Co. · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 1,330
that guy named seb wrote: As i have said before i don't care what the grade is i care how you feel.
Well, I feel that not only is your helmet cam video all herkey jerkey (like all of them), but so is your free solo climbing style. You stated yourself that it felt "stiff". Call me crazy but if I were you I would re-evaluate my free soloing paradigm. Smooth like buttah.......NOT.
that guy named seb · · Britland · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 236
Glenn Schuler wrote: Well, I feel that not only is your helmet cam video all herkey jerkey (like all of them), but so is your free solo climbing style. You stated yourself that it felt "stiff". Call me crazy but if I were you I would re-evaluate my free soloing paradigm. Smooth like buttah.......NOT.
This is what i found most surprising, my previous solo was smooooooth as velvet, this one was really different, jerky and rigid all most mechanical i can only assume it was my lack of fresh beta but it could just be that i wasn't mentally prepared.
Anonymous · · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 0

You really should reconsider what you think is safe free soloing. All you have to do is watch your hand movement while looking for a hold and you can tell you aren't really in a safe position on the wall. Sure people I know and have watch free solo sometimes have to adjust hand holds but normally they know exactly where they are going and aren't having to grab 10 spots on the wall before moving their hand everytime.

Em Cos · · Boulder, CO · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 5
that guy named seb wrote: As i have said before i don't care what the grade is i care how you feel.
that guy named seb wrote: because i don't want to spray, i just want to talk about soloing.
that guy named seb wrote: In the Yosemite decimal system it's rated 5.10b
Yeah..... I call BS.
that guy named seb · · Britland · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 236
ViperScale wrote:You really should reconsider what you think is safe free soloing. All you have to do is watch your hand movement while looking for a hold and you can tell you aren't really in a safe position on the wall. Sure people I know and have watch free solo sometimes have to adjust hand holds but normally they know exactly where they are going and aren't having to grab 10 spots on the wall before moving their hand everytime.
Nearly every hold i'm grabbing onto is just a massive slopper rail, i'm just finding the sweet spot on the rail.
Jared Suppo · · Phoenix, Airizona · Joined May 2016 · Points: 0

All depends on how true the ratings are face climb or crack? and I would definitely climb the rout at lest 10 times if not more to know the moves and to actually feel confident but 5.7-5.8 as of right now possibly a 5.9 if the rout speaks to me,I can climb about a 5.10b but I climb routs that are just super fun to me and the rout will tell me to work on the solo or not. Unless it's like a 5.5-5.6 I'll do it so I don't have to ask someone to belay me I don't solo to be bad ass or to brag or boost it on the Internet somthing speaks to me and tells me to do it for my own pleasure.

Jared Suppo · · Phoenix, Airizona · Joined May 2016 · Points: 0

If I free solo nothing is on my mind but the climbs and the moves but if I get to a ledge I'll take a break and look at the view and take everything in and enjoy it if your soloing and a break will mess with your head or what not you don't have any business soloing it and if I solo my max climb I'd be dead but any solo I'll ever do I better be 100% confident lol

Andrew Wood · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 60
Jared Suppo wrote:All depends on how true the ratings are face climb or crack? and I would definitely climb the rout at lest 10 times if not more to know the moves and to actually feel confident but 5.7-5.8 as of right now possibly a 5.9 if the rout speaks to me,I can climb about a 5.10b but I climb routs that are just super fun to me and the rout will tell me to work on the solo or not. Unless it's like a 5.5-5.6 I'll do it so I don't have to ask someone to belay me I don't solo to be bad ass or to brag or boost it on the Internet somthing speaks to me and tells me to do it for my own pleasure.
I free solo'd my first trad lead because I wanted to take pictures from the top.
Jared Suppo · · Phoenix, Airizona · Joined May 2016 · Points: 0

Seb about 1.20 into the video you almost ate shit and died boosting for the camera and looking over at the crowd to see who's watching is going to make you kill yourself climb safe and spread piece and love!

Healyje · · PDX · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 422

Yeah, this is getting more fucked up by the post. Didn't know what passed for young and dumb in the age of the gopro (and I don't mean soloing), but this pretty much eliminates all doubt. You might want to reconsider your relationship to climbing and social media and your motivation for both.

matt c. · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 155

Hey Seb,
Please stay safe out there. I think one thing that would increase your safety margin substantially is if you stopped showing your videos. It's important to remember that you have nothing to prove and no one to prove anything to. I think GoPros and audiences make some people forget that.

bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065

As dem klingons say ...

Its always a guud day to die ...

;)

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

General Climbing
Post a Reply to "How comfortable are you at your max solo grade?"

Log In to Reply
Welcome

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started