Grand Teton Exum or Owen Spalding Conditions

Has anyone been up either one of these routes as of late? Just curious about the snow conditions.

aha wrote:Has anyone been up either one of these routes as of late? Just curious about the snow conditions.

Thank you.

I just pulled that link out of my bookmarks. Looks like they're not really updating it yet with actual conditions.

all good man. I did use the phone mumber at the bottom and got a bit of information. still interested in first hand observations if possible.

The OS holds snow well into the summer many years, it's still pretty snowy and icy right now and probably will be for the next month or so. Upper Exum is a better bet to have less ice and snow because it sees much more sun, but you will still encounter snow, ice and wet rock no matter how you decide to reach the it.

I figured as much and appreciate the reply. Looks like a later date may be the best option.

Sure I will be up there in the next couple of days, I can pm you about conditions if you want.

I would appreciate that. We are doing something in Wyoming next week. Thank you

luke smith wrote:Sure I will be up there in the next couple of days, I can pm you about conditions if you want.

I can post pictures up Garnet if you want day specific info, it's June so conditions change fast. I haven't been up Garnet in two weeks, Amphitheater Lake was almost all ice last weekend if that helps. I would expect anything from 60+ degrees on the S-ish facing approach to the lower saddle to less than freezing on the OS depending on the time on day. It's been a drawn-out spring so you should expect spring conditions for now.

Piggy-backing this thread for partners! Anyone want to multi pitch rock climb in the tetons this coming Monday the 22nd through Wednesday the 24th? Please pm me if you're keen! Cheers!

Hey Nick, pm to you

I'm planning on getting on the Exum on Wednesday, if possible. Will be ready for anything. Monday-Climber's Ranch; Tuesday approach to ???; Wednesday-Exum; Thursday ???

Hasn't anyone climbed this thing yet this season???!!!
Yes, to answer my own question. From the Wyoming Whiskey website: "The Lower Saddle's weather station is up and running. The complete Exum Ridge has been climbed in the last week (temps were lower than normal) and the route was said to be good shape given the mixed conditions. The Lower Exum will be much cleaner than the Upper Exum."

Sweet!

Hey Rich, the upper exum is a classic, and I wish you the best - I think I'm going to try and climb some other rock routes. With regards to the route, which I've climbed twice, both times in august, I'd expect alpine and changing conditions. Part of the reason beta is hard to come by is: it's still early and probably not seeing many ascents and because the conditions this time of year change daily. Head up expecting to have an adventure and be ready for mixed conditions. Also, I personally find using Instagram hash tags as a great way to find conditions updates, #grandteton or #exumridge or #upperexum might expose you to pictures that folks who do not circulate climbing forums may have encountered. Best of luck!
Nick

^^^ It's still early season, not the 'regular' season and that needs to be taken in to account. People have already done the OS, the upper and full Exum this year, but people do them in winter too. Expect variable conditions, bring an axe and crampons and plenty of sunscreen, and sunglasses. As an example: on Sunday with wind-chill it was well below freezing mid-morning at the upper saddle and probably above sixty at the Meadows by noon, in a giant snow and rock bowl essentially. Thus you have the chance of both hypothermia and heat exhaustion within the span of a few hours and a couple thousand feet. Is the wind always like that at the upper saddle? No. In my experience it is usually howling on the west and north sides of the Grand and the lower saddle and can be negligible elsewhere. So all I can really say is the snow is melting fast, there is still plenty of it, be ready for the cold, the heat, altitude, move efficiently, drink water whenever you can, and have fun. Chill some beer in the Meadows so you have something for the long hike down too.

Looking to head up the exum in a week. Any condition updates? Thanks!

Climbed the upper exum last Friday. Axe and crampons were needed for the approach and descent, but the route was dry.

Thanks! Any more recent conditions from anyone? I will be heading up after the 4th. -M

Bumping for updated beta if you got it...