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Face of Pfeifferhorn?

Original Post
Jaik Hakkarinen · · Utah · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 75

Hey guys, I was wondering if there is a face to the Pfeifferhorn that could possibly be climbed. I was thinking to hit it up this summer and aside from the actual hike, I just wanted to see if there was anywhere on the mountain that could be climbed, either with some trad gear or just soloed. Thanks!

John Badila · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 15

There's not really a "face" that's conducive to rock climbing on the Pfeifferhorn. The usual summer route is a third class scramble across a knife-edge (so-called, not that much exposure) ridge to the base of the east ridge, then a second class scramble to the top. That last part will probably be snow-covered for a while yet. It's one of my favorite Wasatch hikes--my profile pic is from the summit. The north ridge is more challenging, about 5.5, but it is normally only done in the winter. With snow and ice, many loose blocks that would otherwise be very dangerous are more or less cemented in place. I haven't done this route myself, but I'm sure someone here who has can chime in and tell you not to try it in warm weather.

Andrew Mayer · · Driggs, ID · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 131
John Badila wrote: but I'm sure someone here who has can chime in and tell you not to try it in warm weather.
Thats largely what I had heard/read online but having done it anyways, its actually a great low 5th scramble in summer conditions. I enjoyed it more than the S ridge of Superior FWIW. there is definitely a lot of loose rock but certainly manageable with due diligence.


I elected to bypass the initial gendarme since it requires a 5.5 down climb and I was in running shoes.

Here is a little recap for those interested:
andrewmayer.blogspot.com/20…
Aaron Rashaw · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 330

I don't know... I did the North Ridge in the summer and remember looking down the West Face and seeing some cracks/corners etc.. Give it a go, maybe you'll find a nice line, maybe you won't, that's the fun of an adventure! Be safe out there.

Derek DeBruin · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 1,039

North Ridge and East Ridge are the standard lines. I've looked at the NE face a few times and I'm sure it would go in some capacity. Whether it's solid enough, decent climbing, and worth the effort are all personal considerations.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern Utah & Idaho
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