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Rope Friction on Rock While Lowering

Original Post
Chris Oleson · · Maryland · Joined May 2011 · Points: 1,493

This may be more of a physics question, but when you lower someone on a route where there is a lot of rope friction against the rock, does it make a difference the speed at which you are lowering (ie. normal speed versus more slowly)?

I was lowering someone recently on a rope belonging to another climber while sport climbing and got barked at for lowering too quickly (given the rock friction). Obviously it would have been best for the climber to rap instead, but the climber wanted to be lowered. The owner of the rope thought I should be lowering more slowly to minimize wear on the rope. But I'm not sure this makes any difference. Any thoughts?

zachary C · · Eden · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 5

as long as the rope isnt going over any extremely sharp edges the speed of the decent shouldnt really have to large of an effect on rope wear. friction is friction. however seeing as though you're not the owner of the rope i would just do whatever the owner wants even if it doesnt make a whole lot of sense.

ScoJo · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 481

The force of friction won't change with speed (unless the speed is 0 then the force is higher). It should follow that the wear on the rope shouldn't be affected by the speed at which you are lowered.

Clint White aka Faulted Geologist · · Lawrence, KS · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 151

I would agree that the force of friction would be the same, but the force is applied over a shorter period of time on the given area. This same force would maybe snag and snap more individual fibers if the action happened quickly. Alternatively, going slow could allow more time to dig in to the rope.

Overall, lessening the amount of rope drag over rock and around snags is the most important thing you can do.

Moral: climb only overhung 5.11 and up. Aleks could put this more eloquently.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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