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Sauk Prairie Recreation Area (Forbidden Rocks) Bouldering

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Sauk Prairie Recreation Area (Forbidden Rocks)

L › R R › L A › Z

	Cannon Fodder V7 7A+
	Oracle Bone V-easy 3
	Pinagigi T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b V0- 4-
	Sparks TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b V0-1 4+ R

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Elevation:	1,063 ft
GPS:	43.38507, -89.74578 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	3,883 total · 41/month
Shared By:	Doug Hemken on Jun 19, 2016
Admins:	Ian Cotter-Brown, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge, Ben Strobel, Kyle Harding Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

Tucked low on a hillside in the Sauk Prairie Recreation Area. There is a 20-25 foot wall and several boulders. Great area to hang out for the day.

The rock here is unique. It is formed from shattered Barabook quartzite, that was tumbled and then re-cemented together with quartzite sand. This matrix then mostly metamorphosed, formed a really solid chunk with an appearance similar to a conglomerate.

Figuring out how to climb the routes and problems here is an experience much like learning to read Braille - your sense of touch is just as important as your sense of sight. Enjoy!

For most of the decades there has been climbing at Devils Lake, this area was either private farm land or the Badger Ammunition Plant. Only recently was the Ammunition Plant de-commissioned and divided between the Ho-chunk Nation, the USDA, and the WDNR. As such, there is little climbing history here.

Getting There

To get there with the least walking, wind your way through the Sauk Prairie Recreation Area from the main gate on Highway 12.
The access road wanders around on old ammunition plant roads, passing along the edge of the Ho-chunk Sacred Earth Reserve and through the USDA's Dairy Forage Research Center experimental plots. Consult a map, but be warned that most of the old ammunition plant roads are not shown - stick to the black lines. (Most of the roads you need to avoid are signed, unless they have been vandalized.)
Follow the south edge of the Sacred Earth Reserve and pass through the experimental plots until you pass the Great Sauk State Trail bike path, then turn north. Pass Rescue Points 10S, 9S, 11S, and 6S. When you reach Rescue Point 5S turn left, again crossing the bike path. Near Rescue Point 4S park, completely off the pavement.
Walk north 5 minutes on the paved road until just below Rescue Point 2S. You will see Forbidden Wall in the woods to the east (right).
Alternatively, to get to Forbidden Rocks from Devils Lake State Park, drive to the end of Burma Road and walk south the rest of the way, to the Sauk Prairie Recreation Area. Continue straight on the paved road till you get to an intersection and the sign for Rescue Point 2S.