Ask Hazel Findlay // Win a Black Diamond Creek 35 and Positron Quickpack

What's the cheesiest climbing-related pick up line you've ever heard?

How has the importance of climbing changed for you as you've gotten older and better? What is it that inspires you to go out and climb now versus when you first started?

Hello Hazel,

As a fellow trad climber, what are your thoughts on developing new areas? Should we stand with all of the wonderful rock that we have, or continue to explore those remote or overlooked crags? If expansionist, should we continue to bolt the belays on new routes, or avoid the fixed pro when building anchors is an option?

Thank you.

You're known for your bold trad climbing. Do you feel boldness is an inherent part of climbing? It seems a lot of credit is given to a bold first ascent, and I was wondering your thoughts on the subject.

Do you cringe when your told your "Badass" of the month?

Thanks for your willingness to do this!

1. If you could only climb at one crag the rest of your life, where would you climb? Why?

2. What is the oldest piece of gear you use semi-regularly?

I have a question, and it's not motivated by gearlust. Besides, I just bought a new rackpack after my n00b partner dropped one of my draws onto hard-packed dirt from the anchors of a thirty-foot sport route. I sent it to Locker to inspect for microfractures in the dogbone, and he said that it was a goner, and that he would just dispose of it in an eco-friendly manner and save me return shipping. (Super nice guy).

Anyway, my partner that day ended up bootying TWO nice wiregates at the anchor. I guess the last person to climb it didn't have a PAS and had to bail at the chains. While we were arguing other whether he should rap or lower (I said always rap to respect the FA), he mentioned this thread where we could ask you a question about being a crazy badass woman climber. I told him yeah, I have a question, but wouldn't that be a great route name, "Crazy Badass Woman Climber? (5.13d R/X)" Cowen replied, "No, that could be construed as patronizing and patriarchal and make you look like a caca-mouth," and that if I named a route that, he would tie a knot in my Dyneema sling when I wasn't looking.

So like I was saying, I had a question about ethics. I was going to ask whether pre-placed draws make a route easier, but everyone knows that question is sooooo Supertopo. Instead, since I'm trying to impress a female climber I know, I decided to adopt a crag baby to showcase my tender, nurturing side. Everybody who's seen me on the blue route know that I uber-crush like the trash compactor in Episode IV, but man, if this chica only knew how much I care ....

Everything is going well with baby Tommi, but I can't find childcare for this weekend, and my partner and I are going to climb our first multipitch: 350' of super-splitter 5.7 in this great crag I discovered called Eldorado Canyon. Fortunately, I searched the forums and found a thread entitled "The Ethics of Clipping a Crag Baby with a Cigarette Pacifier to the P1 Anchors of the Bastille to Keep Roadside Thieve from Stealing It."

So, my question is this: do you have the number for Rock and Resole?

How important is training to you? Do you feel the need to stay in either training or send mode without mixing the two? How often do you rest versus climb?

Hazel,

My question to you, Hazel, is have you found all of the answers you were looking for with regard to your shoulder rehabilitation?

I injured my rotator cuff August 2015 and after 9 months I'm just starting to get back in the game again (I climb trad, too). I've been lucky to avoid surgery but I'm not out of the woods yet. I've learned that as passionate as I was about climbing, I needed to let that go and move onto another sport temporarily just so I didn't go insane. Someone even asked me tonight while I was teaching a class, "Do you have to start from scratch when you start climbing again?" And I told them no, your mind never forgets and your body just needs some fine-tuning. I'm glad you had the repair. You'll be stronger for it with the right PT. Best of luck!

Megan Green

1jkemp wrote:...Did you ever get that high five from Tommy Caldwell?...

My question requires a bit of a back drop: I think the vast majority of climbers are people like me, weekend warriors with other jobs that take up most of their time during the week. We try to get outside or to the gym as much as we can to pursue our passion for climbing. I think many of us have the thought, or at least have had the thought at some point, "I wish I could do this full time." However, the reality is that very few people are able to actually be a full-time dirt bag or a professional climber, due to a variety of reasons, e.g. family, finances, skill (most of us can't crush 5.14s).

That being said, I have two questions;
1) Do you ever regret your decision to be a professional/full time climber or maybe wish you were more of a "weekend warrior" and didn't have to rely on climbing as a financial source?
2) If someone wanted to pursue climbing full time, what advice would you give them, or what do you think they should know about the lifestyle before they make that decision? In other words, how would you fill in the blank: "Before you become a full time climber, you should know that ____________"

Thank you!

When you look at your feet in the morning after taking a shower (do you take showers? many climbers don´t) do you think they are cute? why?

What are the top 3 on your todo list?

What role do sponsored climbers have in holding their sponsors accountable for their sponsor's business practices. For example, The North Face is owned by VF corporation, and VF has refused to sign on to the binding Bangladesh Accord on Fire and Building Safety, and instead tried to avoid its obligation to working people by creating a sham organization with Walmart and other companies. To what extent can North Face athletes pressure TNF and VF to make better decisions as corporate citizens? How do you navigate these issues as a sponsored climber? Thanks.

Banksey said, "I mean, they say you die twice. One time when you stop breathing and a second time, a bit later on, when somebody says your name for the last time."

How do you want or would like people to view you when they hear your name?

What do you want to be your legacy?

John C.

most serious question of all time. P.B. and J with, or without the crust?

Oh herro Hazel,

1)How do you feel that we can be the most effective stewards (climbing or otherwise) of this blue spherical wonderland we call home? How can we as climbers inspire others to respect and love the planet as most of us do?

2)Why do some climbs and trips stand out to you more than others? Is it the grade, the partners, destination, a clean send, or is it too subjective to define?

3)If you could jump into a pool of anything and survive (and be totally unharmed!), what would that pool be full of?

I met you years ago around a Tuolumne SAR campfire after you had climbed the Bacher-Yerian and I will never forget you talking smack on American (Yanks) climbers and how the bolts weren't that far apart. I wish you the best.

Cheers

What do you think about all these questions straight out of speed dating?

What do you think is your biggest contribution to the climbing community (the world), and what do you wish to achieve?

Hazel,
Hello fellow TRAD er....
Like you, I can see a piece of pro and beautiful rock features and it brings me an energized inner peace!!!!!
If you have not looked into Rope Solo Trad, I would highly suggest it....
It awesome awesomeness!!!
Here is a vid of me Rope Solo Trad on some Tennessee sandstone...
EPIC!!!!!!!

youtu.be/676suvTVnUs