How comfortable are you at your max solo grade?

I don't solo as such.

But there have been plenty of times which I've been climbing without ropes where a slip would mean certain death. Plenty of times when a slip would mean severe injuries/death. Plenty of times when climbing with a rope that a fall would mean serious injuries.

It is part of the trad sport that I've signed up for. If the circumstances call for it I'll do it. But I've never gone out of my way to solo.

At various times I suppose I've soloed short 5.3s, and 5.4s for whatever reason. Sometimes is just because I'm lazy and can't be bothered going the long route. Other times I've been roped on a runout 5.11a where a fall would be on RPs with a ledge below me.

Suffice to say I don't mind exposure and some risk. But I won't go chasing it by going out to solo.

that guy named seb wrote:CUNT OF A CLIMB!!

Strikes me as offensive ... probably not just me.

Hey, Admins, do you think you could write up some app that looks at our ticklist, factors in average grade, style of ascent, and type of climbing, and then tells us what our max free solo grade should be? I'd really like to know what mine is.

This would be a great way for MP to continue to hold our hands through this exciting and individualistic sport!

Bill Lawry wrote: Strikes me as offensive ... probably not just me.

Yep.

Pnelson wrote:Hey, Admins, do you think you could write up some app that looks at our ticklist, factors in average grade, style of ascent, and type of climbing, and then tells us what our max free solo grade should be? I'd really like to know what mine is. This would be a great way for MP to continue to hold our hands through this exciting and individualistic sport!

I scanned your ticklist - looks like you are safe to about 5.7c.

The first rule of free solo is ...

Be a spraying chuffer about it !!!!

;)

Ted Pinson wrote:I'm pretty sure the only people who truly know their "max" soloing grade are dead.

Not at all.

I can tell you with absolute certainty that my solo limit is 9 YDS grades (numbers, not letter sub-grades) below my trad onsight level.

Think about it, Marc ;).

Ted Pinson wrote:Think about it, Marc ;).

Max soloing grade is a combination of route difficulty, where the crux is located, climber comfort level at the grade, type of climbing, climber focus, and some other more subjective factors. It's not just a matter of pushing it until you die. I posit that most all soloists both know their max solo grade and are still alive.

Yes, I know you were making a bit of a joke, but since so many folks take what's on MP soooo literally......

I like how the op asked a perfectly clear, if somewhat odd, question, and then everyone went off on this tangent about what exactly a "max solo grade" meant.

My max is low fifth and WI3 and while I wouldn't say I'm typically gripped at those grades, I'm not exactly admiring the scenery. Soloing lower grades simulates the seriousness, and therefore the focus, one would typically associate with higher grades, I find I just get into a different head space where I am neither enjoying myself nor not. Once those grades drop down to 4th class or WI2 I would say I'm more likely to relax in the way you are describing.

Jacob Smith wrote:I like how the op asked a perfectly clear, if somewhat odd, question, and then everyone went off on this tangent about what exactly a "max solo grade" meant.

It's pretty hard to reach a consensus opinion if there are major questions about the definition of the central term.

Decades ago, back in the Dark Ages, I soloed several 5.3 to 5.6 multi-pitch routes--all routes I had done before--and I was consistently on-sight/no falls leading 5.9+/5.10 trad at the time. (Of course, there WAS nothing other than trad then.) Now that I am older (wiser???), my unroped solo limit is The Freeway on the Second Flatiron (Class 4) or whatever might be required for the Colorado 14ers. These days, I also love having bomber pro at my waist (or higher!) at the crux on trad climbs, although it doesn't always happen.

This a pretty interesting question, one which I think about quite a bit. I've been doing Freeway (800 ft) regularly this year, and have found pathways that keep the climb at mostly 4th class with a few moments of very low 5. For me the absolute difficulty of a move is not nearly as important as the exposure and/or consequences of failure. I'm in a state that I would describe as relaxed focus. I'm not looking at anything other than foot and hand placements, and the way forward. However, aside from crux pitches, it's no problem to stop and enjoy the view because the low angle of the route allows it.
I've been on harder things (specifically Hubris 5.6x), and basically it's not "comfortable" at all. I have to keep attention on movement exclusively. And I won't be doing it again.

paging Aleks... Aleks Zebastion... This thread needs you.

Personally, I wont solo anything i am not comfortable downclimbing and i assess move by move while on route. To each his own.

TBlom wrote:paging Aleks... Aleks Zebastion... This thread needs you.

climbing friend!

you do not solo! you will do the dying!

you eat fishcheesesteaks from bucket and pull hard for glory on your bold flash!

develop Ubërklïngen grip of power and pïnchenpüllen crimp of crushing sidepull style, as well you develop prancing pony footwork style and silent lunging killing deadly laser attack tiger footwork style! You achieve advance gradings! you prove your worth as human being!

You MAKE bold flash! You take off shirt and impress everyone!

You use the frictionlabs chalk most expensive, pretend is like gourmet coffee, and good for either gorilla, horse, or donkey style! Nuggets floating in fine white powderrrrrrrryessssssmyahhhhhh!

you do not use the deadly ATC!

Victor K wrote:This a pretty interesting question, one which I think about quite a bit. I've been doing Freeway (800 ft) regularly this year, and have found pathways that keep the climb at mostly 4th class with a few moments of very low 5. For me the absolute difficulty of a move is not nearly as important as the exposure and/or consequences of failure. I'm in a state that I would describe as relaxed focus. I'm not looking at anything other than foot and hand placements, and the way forward. However, aside from crux pitches, it's no problem to stop and enjoy the view because the low angle of the route allows it. I've been on harder things (specifically Hubris 5.6x), and basically it's not "comfortable" at all. I have to keep attention on movement exclusively. And I won't be doing it again.

thankyou for being one of the few to answer would you say it's the difficulty of it that made you so on edge or the style of climbing, from the X i assume it was a slab? would you feel better on a low angle crack or something limestone esque?
Aleks which is more dangerous? ATC or redpoint soloing?

that guy named seb wrote:Aleks which is more dangerous? ATC or redpoint soloing?

The one that completely warps my mind are the on-sight free solos at a high grade.