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Vampire direct finish

Original Post
Danny Poceta · · Canmore · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 98

Does anyone know much about the "direct finish" to the Vampire? I'm having trouble finding much info about it and I don't have the guidebook.

Yesterday was my first time on the route, and I was having so much fun on the P2 flake that I accidentally blew right past the bat-walk and continued climbing to where the flake gets super super thin and features an interesting mantle to a bolted anchor. Above the anchor is blank looking section with a bolt about 10 feet directly above the belay.

Does the direct finish continue past this bolt, and what does it go at? We did a quick rap down the batwalk and did the original ending, weren't feeling too adventurous I guess.

Cheers

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276

Have you read the route description and comments on MP? The info you are looking for appears to be there.

Danny Poceta · · Canmore · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 98

I did read the comments. I guess I'm wondering if that anchor I arrived at after the flake was the "official" end of the direct route and the bolt above was the last pitch of Happy Hooker, of if there is another pitch that is still considered part of the direct finish.

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276

For you, Danny, I've scanned this page out of my guidebook:

Danny Poceta · · Canmore · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 98

Thanks Frank! All questions answered...

Mike F · · Arden, NC · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 56

That's exciting eh? Did that myself once Danny.. I wasn't too thrilled about that flake while I was climbing it to say the least.

Danny Poceta · · Canmore · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 98

Definitely exciting.... during the undercling portions I was trying to pinch the flake and pull straight down on it, rather than pulling out on it. Felt like a graham cracker! Fun climbing though, would be even better without the anxiety of the flake.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern California
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