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Climbing Gyms: The Good and the Bad

will ar · · Vermont · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 290
HankG wrote:Campus rungs from 1/8" to 1"
You're campusing on 1/8" edges?! That's impressive. Who even makes rungs that small?
Brian · · North Kingstown, RI · Joined Sep 2001 · Points: 804

There's a good?

Hank G · · Carlsbad, Ca · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 35
will ar wrote: You're campusing on 1/8" edges?! That's impressive. Who even makes rungs that small?
Nope, but I'd bet there's a 13 year old somewhere that can.
Dallas Koller · · Chico, CA · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 25

I used to go to a gym that was a co-op and had electronic access cards, so it was open 24/7. You could go WHENEVER YOU WANTED! That was super handy, plus it was members only and no one under 18 allowed. I think three days a week from 5-9pm non-members could come to climb and get a feel for the place. Members got a few guest passes a month too. It was bouldering only (meh), and wasn't too big, but it had a good variety of walls and route difficulties, plus you could top out on half of them then use a hold ladder to get down. It also had a little gym/weight room attached with a bachar ladder and other climbing specific training tools, campus boards, hahgboards, etc. For serious climbers it was awesome. It was all about training and it was rarely crowded and most people were super nice (it was in Minnesota so even the "mean people" were nice). Seriously though, having 24 hour access was the biggest plus.

TBlom · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2004 · Points: 360

Creative route setting, including some routes that have an 'outdoorsy' feel is appreciated. Gyms over 40' are nice. Decent climate control and dust control really make a difference.

Crappy atmosphere whether it is staff or clientele can be a huge turnoff. The attitude at a certain gym in Boulder, CO could peel paint... but it wasn't the staff as much as the members. What a snobby bunch of douches.

I led a route once, and my buddy was tying in to do the route afterward. A guy started climbing while my friend was tying in, and my friend said "hey, I'm about to climb that!" The guy responded with "well are you tied in?" and led away, leaving his belayer to share awkward stares with us. The offending climber had a new nickname after that 'RU tied in', we used to see that guy at least 3 times a week and he had no problem being an absolute dickhead to us. Unfortunately interactions like that were the norm at 'the Cock Rub'. I don't think there could be a more snobby and condescending scene than gym climbing in Boulder!

JCM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 115
HankG wrote:A dedicated and specific training area. At least one symmetrical system wall, a moon board, preferably with adjustable steepness. A dedicated traverse wall is great as well. Multiple hangboards, at least one wood board to save skin (beastmaker). Campus rungs from 1/8" to 1", sloper rungs are essential as well. A Bachar ladder would be useful too, but sacrificing climbing surfaces for a Bachar ladder would be dumb. Also, an adjustable system wall could take the place of a Bachar ladder if set appropriately. Weights, squat rack, BUMPER PLATES!!! With the new trend towards heavy deadlifting, bumper plates are essential if a gym wants to avoid breaking normal plates. Bumper plates also allow for Olympic lifting, which is a huge draw for the everyman/crossfitters - which means its a great way to recruit members and make money to buy holds. As has been said, setting is probably the most crucial element. However, a good setter with crap holds is constrained. Its like having a great brain with a shit body, or vice versa. So holds/setters are the most essential.
I agree strong with everything here.

Other "likes": Treadwall (way more efficient than lead wall for endurance), powerful AC (make it cold!).
beytzim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2013 · Points: 30

Because of my travel job, I have probably climbed at over 20 gyms around the US and abroad. Here is my take:

Best gyms have these:
1. Good lighting
2. CLEAN! Clean floors and bathrooms.
3. Route setting and variety like everyone else has said
4. Non climbing activities like weightlifting or yoga rooms
5. Either 24 hour access or near 24hours. Some gyms open at 5am and close at 11pm.
6. Lots of auto belays
7. For bouldering: safe floors. Almost broke an ankle at one gym because of loose padding.
8. Separated areas for advanced climbers or lead only areas.
9. Clearly marked routes
10. Lots of climber events, comps, and social gatherings.

Russ Keane · · Salt Lake · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 392

Gyms are ruining the notion of climbing grades. Too many people think 5.10 (for instance) indoors is the same as 5.10 outdoors. In bouldering this is especially the case. And plus, it behooves a gym to rate softly because it makes their customers feel good.

Ideally indoor climbing would have its own rating system.

Anonymous · · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 0

I think gyms should have a different rating system than outside. If for nothing else at least someone would be more likely to think about what they are about to do than just assume ok grade that is easy will take no work to climb (yes they still will go on a sight and see gym grade = outdoor grade I got this but at least they will have to think about it).

petzl logic · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 730
pkeds wrote:For the love of God a drinking fountain would be nice in addition to the halting of spray painted holds...
That's pretty funny. Did you suggest either item to your gym? If they can't be bothered, why would you continue climbing there?
pkeds · · Broomfield, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 30

Just biding my time till sender 1 LAX opens...

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 252

Man, 24 hr climbing gyms...sounds amazing. When do they set/clean, though?

Anonymous · · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 0

I know alot of gyms that set during the day they will just close sections a few sections of walls and reset them.

Squeak · · Perth West OZ · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 21
pkeds wrote:Just biding my time till sender 1 LAX opens...
Isnt there another Sender1 in LA?
G Man · · Tahoe · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 81
that guy named seb wrote: Problems and routes, i use the words interchangeably, adding a massive low percentage move to the top of a route adds nothing, absolutely nothing, it's shit route setting.
Seems like you think anything that challenges you is shit routesetting, huh?
will ar · · Vermont · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 290
Russ Keane wrote:Gyms are ruining the notion of climbing grades. Too many people think 5.10 (for instance) indoors is the same as 5.10 outdoors. In bouldering this is especially the case. And plus, it behooves a gym to rate softly because it makes their customers feel good. Ideally indoor climbing would have its own rating system.
I'm going to disagree with you guys on this one. Our ratings aren't perfect, but they are ok and no system ever is perfect. Ratings aren't even that consistent between different areas, styles of climbing, time period they were put up etc. Most climbers figure this out pretty quickly on their first time outdoors. What's going to happen anyways? They hangdog their way up a route or leave gear and get humbled? I've yet to see some straight from the gym climber show up at the base of the steck-salathe (or even single pitch sport route with moderate bolt spacing) and say "I got this, it's only 5.9."
Aleks Zebastian · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 175

climbing friend,

movement denver has too long of an approach from door to wall

Mark E Dixon · · Possunt, nec posse videntur · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 974
Aleks Zebastian wrote:climbing friend, movement denver has too long of an approach from door to wall
Just drop your pack and go for it. That's what everybody else does.
SavvageA · · North Pole, AK · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 20

Pet peeves about gyms:

1. A mandatory class taught by the owner of the gym on how to fall if you're bouldering (who does this?) AND needs to be refreshed every 6 months...

2. Grade systems that are based on words like "awkward" and "sketchy" rather than "V5" or "5.10"

3. Stripping the entire gym after one month, or not stripping the gym after 2 years. Let's find a happy medium.

4. Allowing setters to only set for themselves. This turns into the entire gym having stellar and diverse routes in one grade, and every other grade is shit or non-existent.

5. Gyms with no slides!!! CityRock has ruined me...

6. Owners who go against all of their own rules in their gym in front of customers. Anarchy.

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 252

Hahahaha no way #2 is real. Seriously??

The weirdest ratings I've seen were when the city of Chicago decided to open an outdoor gym in the park and allowed the Walltopia people to set after putting the panels up. Everything was rated "Easy," "medium," or "hard," but these were completely subjective and inconsistent. When they consensus-rated the routes to the V system, there were several "easy" routes that became 10c or 11b, with "medium" routes next to them that were 5.9. It was a clusterfuck.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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