Trevor
·
Sep 28, 2015
·
Salt Lake City, UT
· Joined Apr 2012
· Points: 830
The other day at the crag, someone was telling me there's a 5-6 pitch bolted 5.10 at Tumtum WA but I can't find anything on here that fits that description. Anyone have the beta on it?
If you add Craig Anderson on facebook, all the beta is on his FB page. There are a handful of new routes, including multiple multipitch lines.
The one you refer to is a fun line, called "Orion". The first two pitches can easily be linked with a 70m (and maybe even with a 60m), they are not sustained. The bolts are kind of weird, seem to be placed well but the shape of the hangers would make me worry about taking a fall on them and loading a carabiner incorrectly. The first/second pitch and the crux third pitch are the good ones, the other pitches are just short and lame. This climb is kind of a bummer at the "summit" because there isn't one, you just keep scrambling after the last belay until you decide to turn around.
It appears that this cliff/slab was previously referred to as "The Apron" here on MP, and has seen some ascents on gear as well as previous sport development. Craig has been developing a ton out there and has referred to it as "Highway Rock".
Orion, yes. It can be done in three pitches climbed but requires a few more rappels. You can link pitch 2 and 3 very easily. And 4 and 5. It's easiest just to hike down from the huge terrace at the last pitch. It's pretty much it's own separate wall as it lies far back from the slabs. But the route gets you to the top and a good view. Craig likes to orient the hangars totally vertical for some odd reason. Any fall or significant weight will twist them straight downward in the direction of a fall. They are safe oriented that way, but not ideal as you don't want your hardware moving and twisting in the event of a fall.
This area, however, is on a separate piece of private property that holds the base of all the highway rock climbs. The upper wall is on a different piece and is accessible per the land owner's permission. But as of June 2016, the landowner that owns the base of the cliff is not allowing trespassing. So Orion is off limits for the time being. Banana Split Dome, however, has even better routes we've been working on. Check them out. I put in a two pitch route there.
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