New 5.10 Blanco`s??

J. Albers wrote: Pretty sure that statement doesn't make sense. One's foot geometry can easily cause a shoe to not fit quite right or be painful even if the size is right just like can occur when fitting a ski boot or an ice boot. However, given that there simply is no equivalent to the Blanco for certain types of climbing, then many people are willing to put up with some pain for the benefits. And if slicing the shoe alleviates some pain without degrading the benefits of the shoe, then why wouldn't you do it? Its similar to getting a custom molded insert for a ski boot.

I want you to read what you said really, really carefully and see if you can spot the problem. :p

NO BAREFOOT OR YERRR GONNA DIE!!!!!

If you can't wait, or can't pan out the $170 they'll probably charge for these: I have a pair of recently resoled (probably climbed on the resole 3 times) blancos, they are 2012 vintage but have seen no use over the last 2 years size 10. $70 shipped. $65 local (Boulder) pickup. PM me if interested.

How do the blancos compare to the pinkies?

Been a big pink fan, but the heel doesnt do me well.

Ted Pinson wrote: I want you to read what you said really, really carefully and see if you can spot the problem. :p

Yes Ted, that is very clever that you noticed where I said "the shoe doesn't quite fit right". But if you read my statement in context, its pretty clear that I am addressing your implication that the shoe is either not the right size or can't be made to fit, neither of which help fix Blanco foot pain. But sure, you are technically correct. Kudos for offering helpful advice though....oh wait ;)

D-Roc wrote:How do the blancos compare to the pinkies? Been a big pink fan, but the heel doesnt do me well.

The Blancos edge and smear on technical granite in a far superior manor. In comparison the pinks feel like they have no structure in the toe. Yet somehow the Blancos don't feel like a board lasted shoe, which allows them to smear quite well also. I can stand forever on dimes in Blancos whereas in another shoe you start to skooge off of small edges rather quickly in comparison.

It just seems like a lot of trouble for a shoe that clearly doesn't fit some peoples' feet. I still have not gotten a clear answer as to what makes the Blancos so different that you couldn't find a similar shoe from a different manufacturer. Granted, I've never tried a pair on, but I'm having difficulty understanding why people are so obsessed.

My advice would be to find a similar shoe from a different manufacturer. From your description, it sounds like a Katana Lace or TC Pro would be a good alternative if 5.10 doesn't fit your foot. It's funny, because when you ask people the same question about the pinks, the answer is usually that they edge really well on technical granite...

Ted Pinson wrote:It just seems like a lot of trouble for a shoe that clearly doesn't fit some peoples' feet. I still have not gotten a clear answer as to what makes the Blancos so different that you couldn't find a similar shoe from a different manufacturer. Granted, I've never tried a pair on, but I'm having difficulty understanding why people are so obsessed. My advice would be to find a similar shoe from a different manufacturer. From your description, it sounds like a Katana Lace or TC Pro would be a good alternative if 5.10 doesn't fit your foot.

A Katana Lace is not even a close comparison. And that's just it, there isn't another shoe, by any manufacturer, that matches the Blanco. The TC Pro is probably the closest, but it is still not the same. Doesn't really matter on easier climbing, but once you hit thin and techy 5.12 and up, it does make a difference (in particular when onsighting because then you have time to figure out sequences before you skooge off of a hold). If you haven't worn them, then I don't know what to tell you. The first time I wore them was on a mid 13 project and when I went back to my other old shoes on the same route, they all felt like mushy crap.

J. Albers wrote: A Katana Lace is not even a close comparison. And that's just it, there isn't another shoe, by any manufacturer, that matches the Blanco. The TC Pro is probably the closest, but it is still not the same. Doesn't really matter on easier climbing, but once you hit thin and techy 5.12 and up, it does make a difference (in particular when onsighting because then you have time to figure out sequences before you skooge off of a hold). If you haven't worn them, then I don't know what to tell you. The first time I wore them was on a mid 13 project and when I went back to my other old shoes on the same route, they all felt like mushy crap.

+1

Ok. Will have to take your word for it, and hopefully try them when the new ones come out. The other models of the line (Moccasyms, etc) have certainly lived up to the hype for me.

I couldn't return those shoes fast enough.

Seth Jones wrote: Called 5.10 and confirmed they will be available next spring.

SWEET !
Also yesterday, Sonnie Trotter posted a picture of himself wearing them !!!

Seth, these might be your perfect shoes for Devil's Lake if they fit your feet!