New 5.10 Blanco`s??

can anyone confirm that this is true ???

outside.co.uk/latest/news/T…

I don't get what the big deal is about the Blancos. Aren't these basically the same as Verdons?

AFAIK Blanco is like a stiff Verde. Different profile and rubber than the Verdon. Probably more of a general use shoe (you can jam in them)

I'm excited! There really is a lot of difference between all the Anasazi models, despite having the same last. And the heel on the verdon is garbage, I can't believe they made a heel that was even worse than the anasazi heel!

Wish there was a TC Pro-like shoe for people with prominent big toes.

Ball wrote:Wish there was a TC Pro-like shoe for people with prominent big toes.

I've never tried them but maybe the Butora Altura could be what you're looking for?

Jon Rhoderick wrote: And the heel on the verdon is garbage, I can't believe they made a heel that was even worse than the anasazi heel!

You're the only person I've ever heard who thinks that. The new verdon and quantum heel is way better than the anasazi for everyone I've talked to or fit.

Ball wrote:Wish there was a TC Pro-like shoe for people with prominent big toes.

I have prominent big toes and think the TC Pro is pretty comfy, probably my most comfy pair of shoes. Maybe you're just trying to go to small. The sole is VERY stiff so no need for a tight fit.

Back to the original topic. I always thought the Blanco was the ultimate pocket/limestone shoe. They also edge really well. Sadly, because of my previously mentioned prominent big toes, the shape doesn't work for me. I have to get it too tight to fit right and it makes it extremely uncomfortable.

Both are stiff, flat shoes with C4. I guess the Verdon has more of a technical last so it's more like the katana lace, but still seems rather similar. That being said, I feel like 5.10 makes a lot of really similar shoes between the Anasazi, Stonelands, etc.

Ball wrote:AFAIK Blanco is like a stiff Verde. Different profile and rubber than the Verdon. Probably more of a general use shoe (you can jam in them)

I would call the Pink "general use shoes" , I use the Blanco's for tiny edging and cracks! their stiffness make them amazing at both those ! Pink's are my go to for 70% of my climbing, I was trying to salvage my blanco's but not anymore if this pans out !!!

Nice!!! I was one of those "stockpilers" and I only have one pair left. There isn't another shoe that I have worn that allows me to stand on tech granite as precisely as the Blancos.

J. Albers wrote:Nice!! There isn't another shoe that I have worn that allows me to stand on tech granite as precisely as the Blancos.

thats exactly what i was talking about !!!!

A.wilk wrote: I've never tried them but maybe the Butora Altura could be what you're looking for?

...and apparently will never find in person.

Ryan Hamilton wrote: I have prominent big toes and think the TC Pro is pretty comfy, probably my most comfy pair of shoes. Maybe you're just trying to go to small. The sole is VERY stiff so no need for a tight fit.

Your big toe probably points inward.

I wear big shoes with socks. They're just horrid for my feet. Absolutely wretched.

This is awesome news! My problem is with the Blanco's heel...it really digs into my achilles, even after 20 pitches or so it hasn't broken in. Anyone else experience this?

Mitch Musci wrote:This is awesome news! My problem is with the Blanco's heel...it really digs into my achilles, even after 20 pitches or so it hasn't broken in. Anyone else experience this?

I don't have this problem, but I know that others have and IIRC, some pro climber had a blog post showing how they modified their Blancos to fix the achilles pain issue. Essentially they made a slice in the sling shot part of the heal rand on both sides of the heel (but leaving it glued in place) so as to release some of the achilles pressure. Apparently fixed the problem for them. I tried to find this for you but couldn't, maybe somebody will chime in with a link.

Pinks-all around, small chill, slab cracks
Whites-techy/harder lines, small vert cracks

Heels: I have a terrible, but useful habit with my Whites. I walk around in them with the heel tucked under, lace the uppers. Breaks all the tension down. Again, sub optimal--but it has worked.

J. Albers wrote: I don't have this problem, but I know that others have and IIRC, some pro climber had a blog post showing how they modified their Blancos to fix the achilles pain issue. Essentially they made a slice in the sling shot part of the heal rand on both sides of the heel (but leaving it glued in place) so as to release some of the achilles pressure. Apparently fixed the problem for them. I tried to find this for you but couldn't, maybe somebody will chime in with a link.

Thanks for the tip man! I took a knife to them and now they are comfy as hell.

Pretty sure that if you need to use a knife, the shoe is probably not the right fit...

Ted Pinson wrote:Pretty sure that if you need to use a knife, the shoe is probably not the right fit...

Pretty sure that statement doesn't make sense. One's foot geometry can easily cause a shoe to not fit quite right or be painful even if the size is right just like can occur when fitting a ski boot or an ice boot. However, given that there simply is no equivalent to the Blanco for certain types of climbing, then many people are willing to put up with some pain for the benefits. And if slicing the shoe alleviates some pain without degrading the benefits of the shoe, then why wouldn't you do it? Its similar to getting a custom molded insert for a ski boot.

Agree ^^. I always use a knife on my TC Pros to relieve the tension on my Achilles. I don't cut my Anasazis because I only use for single pitch and the heel tension is one of the reasons they perform/edge so well over multiple resoles.

With that said, the old Blanco's tension on the heels is extreme and usually turned off all but a few climbers from loving the Blancos (definitely a quiver shoe). Based on a glance at the website with the pics of the new Blancos, it appears there is a little less tension on the heel of the new ones (which aligns with what 5.10 did when they redesigned the Pink and VCS in 2013) but who knows until we get to use 'em.