Hooks for Anchors

I was sport climbing at my local crag, and found two hooks for anchors at the top, rather than bolt hangers, chains, or rap rings? Are these safe for rappelling? Is there any reason someone would have permanently left these in the rock?

I did not use them.

Edit: The opening at the top of the hook was definitely large enough for a rope to fit through.

Cold shuts. Not a particularly strong anchor, but strong enough. Very common.

Did you see this

or did you see this



Neither will fail. The first is pretty weak and totally outdated. Can also twist the rope pretty easily. The second is totally bomber and is really the best way to set up a sport anchor.

It was the former. Sounds like it's safe, but not ideal. Is it a definite no go to use runners to set a TR anchor from?

Thanks for the info!

You can throw some draws on them to set up a TR.

Bobby F wrote:It was the former. Sounds like it's safe, but not ideal. Is it a definite no go to use runners to set a TR anchor from? Thanks for the info!

Safe is a relative term. Basically those things can straighten out under 800lbs of force. They are mild steel that wears quick. They also don't capture the rope.

My advice, lead the route and lower off. Repeat per your group. Nobody topropes. If you do TR, leave the last draw clipped.

My local is littered with these stupid things. Once I finish school in August and if I decide to stay here, I'm going to go on an anchor replacing blitz.

If you wish to TR... simply remove the Biner from one of your draws ( the one without the rubber holder) and slide the now open draw down..... that way its sort of snug. And its a great Idea to keep the last draw clipped.

And the 800 lbs is when they are new, once they have a slight groove... they are stronger. weird but true....

they are safe, but you need to use caution... do not be climbing up above em way off to the side.

Hialtitude....good on you for vowing to fix, i usually only see those at some of the cobweb sport spots I go to.

highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion wrote:Did you see this or did you see this Neither will fail. The first is pretty weak and totally outdated. Can also twist the rope pretty easily. The second is totally bomber and is really the best way to set up a sport anchor.

The fist one is common at Spearfish, and there are some pictures of people TR on MP. I like the idea of removing the biner and using the rubber to hold in place. Peace of mind more than anything. If you do decide to TR, you can leave a locking biner on the last bolt.

I think the second one are solid but my climbing partner doesn't trust them. She claims that the rope unclipped while on TR. So I always back them up with a locking biner while TR and removing it before lowering

Guy Keesee wrote:If you wish to TR... simply remove the Biner from one of your draws ( the one without the rubber holder) and slide the now open draw down..... that way its sort of snug

Thanks for the tip!

Guy Keesee wrote:...they are safe, but you need to use caution... do not be climbing up above em [or] way off to the side.

To further emphasize the point:
mountainproject.com/v/a-tra…