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British climber considering Indian Creek, Zion and Red Rocks in March/April - advice needed

Original Post
Phillipso · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 0

Dear all,

I am a British climber, currently living in Brazil, without much money. Unfortunately I am due to be in Las Vegas, which looks like hell, for 4 days at the end of March. The bonus however, is that it will give me the chance to climb in some great places I hope. I will stay in the US for 2 months, March and April.

I am looking for some advice on the logistics and practicality of what I plan to do:

- I'll be going dirtbag style. Hitching everywhere (time is no real issue for me), free camping wherever possible and cooking on a stove.
- I'll be travelling alone
- I will have a single rack of cams from aliens to c4 #3, plus nuts.
- climbing around 5.11 (I'm aware the desert climbing style is unique... If it helps, I have ~5 months crack climbing experience on patagonian and squamish granite)

I have read the general info for each spot, but was hoping some personal advice related to my plans could be offered.

Questions:
1) Is it logistically possible to free camp in these places without a car? I'm thinking about getting water and food supplies, as well as whether it is actually allowed and other people do it or not.
2) How easy will it be to just turn up and find partners. Is there much of a 'dirtbag community' of other climbers turning up for the season like you get in Patagonia, or will it mostly be 2 people coming for a few days with their cars etc?
3) If free camping and hitching/travelling without a car is going to be very difficult, what are my next cheapest alternatives?
4) Any tips or important stuff I should know?

Many thanks in advance, and maybe see you out there next year!

Cheers,
Owen

Andrew Gram · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 3,725

Free camping without a car is very difficult for all of those places. Free camping is difficult in general around Red Rock and Zion, and basically impossible without a car. Free camping at Indian Creek is not a problem, but it is out in the middle of nowhere so you'll be reliant on the kindness of others to resupply, get rides to crags, etc.

Finding partners at Indian Creek will be easy - its an outdoor crack climbing gym, and people join up to share cams all the time. Red Rock and Zion are tougher that way - the partner finder on mountain project is your best bet.

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276

Rent a car, pay for a campground or cheap motel. Arrange partners before you come.

Otherwise, you'll wish you had. I only have experience in Red Rock.

Are you coming on a work trip? If you are paying for your flight and expenses to get to the US, add in a rental car to make it pleasant.

Phillipso · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 0

No work trip unfortunately. I quit my job in London last year. Hence the dirtbag mentality...

Looks like I'll base myself in Indian Creek for the majority of time and then try to arrange some trips to Zion and Red Rocks using the partner finder on here, paying for camping when I get there.

I'm aware they are not particularly close together, but luckily I'll be in no rush.

CJ K · · Northern, NM · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 280

Phillipso,
are you talking about March-April 2017??? Planning ahead living the dirt bag lifestyle is impressive.
If you are in need of a partner in Indian Creek during that time you can always send me a message as I am near the creek and in need of partners during that time of year.
Red Rocks and Zion are great places to climb but a lot of regulation that doesn't blend well with the dirt bag mentality... and for good reason. Try and find partners ahead of time for Red Rocks and Zion with the partner finder here of MP.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern Utah Deserts
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