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Eldo West Ridge Access?

Steve Sangdahl · · eldo sprngs, co · Joined Mar 2002 · Points: 735

"Kinda like the potholes thru town ,huh"

The potholes thru town bug you? And ya call yerself a climber??? :)

We love our potholes!!!

Ben Pontecorvo · · Eugene, OR · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 155

potholes are gone as of yesterday

Brad White · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2006 · Points: 25

'interesting discussion...keeping the approach somewhat scary/hazardous to keep WR the domain of the chosen ones"

All a person has to do to see the the W. Ridge is not the domain of the chosen ones is to go climb there on the weekend (and actually sometimes after work during the week).

My thoughts are not based on any sense of elitism. Just because someone threw a sling around a skinny tree doesn't set the future precedent to establish a permanent rappel anchor there. I'm not sure that the high traverse is not more dangerous than the low traverse, even when the water is at its highest in the spring.

This is about keeping a natural place that we all love as natural as possible, even if that occasionally means choosing a reasonable amount of risk over comfortizing everything for the masses. Climbing is after all dangerous, and sometimes getting to routes is part of that experience. That's why we don't bolt everything into submission in Eldo, while if that's what you do want in your climbing experience you have Boulder Canyon and many other areas like that where nature has been beat into submission. Go for it.

If there was a way to make the traverse to the W. Ridge absolutely risk free without compromising the natural state of the canyon for which I am advocating, I would be all for it.

Steve Sangdahl · · eldo sprngs, co · Joined Mar 2002 · Points: 735

+10 ^ for Brad Stone White . Well put and pretty much sums it up !

Mark E Dixon · · Possunt, nec posse videntur · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 974
Brad White wrote:'interesting discussion...keeping the approach somewhat scary/hazardous to keep WR the domain of the chosen ones" All a person has to do to see the the W. Ridge is not the domain of the chosen ones is to go climb there on the weekend (and actually sometimes after work during the week). My thoughts are not based on any sense of elitism. Just because someone threw a sling around a skinny tree doesn't set the future precedent to establish a permanent rappel anchor there. I'm not sure that the high traverse is not more dangerous than the low traverse, even when the water is at its highest in the spring. This is about keeping a natural place that we all love as natural as possible, even if that occasionally means choosing a reasonable amount of risk over comfortizing everything for the masses. Climbing is after all dangerous, and sometimes getting to routes is part of that experience. That's why we don't bolt everything into submission in Eldo, while if that's what you do want in your climbing experience you have Boulder Canyon and many other areas like that where nature has been beat into submission. Go for it. If there was a way to make the traverse to the W. Ridge absolutely risk free without compromising the natural state of the canyon for which I am advocating, I would be all for it.
I agree, very well said.

However, a trip to the West Ridge starts with a car ride on a nice dirt road to a parking lot next to a sturdy bathroom, followed by a great trail featuring laid steps and trail signs, interrupted briefly by a scramble over or around a stream side boulder, then again up a well maintained trail to thoughtfully built staging areas.

It's not overwhelmingly obvious to me that a couple of well placed rap bolts on the high traverse would make this a less natural experience.

Personally I don't need the bolts and am ok with the riverside scramble, even though I'm kind of clumsy around water and really don't want to fall in at this creek stage!

In any case, I'll defer to the opinion of the Eldo locals who have done a darn good job of keeping the place special.
mark felber · · Wheat Ridge, CO · Joined Jul 2005 · Points: 41

Very good point, Mark. However, the difference between the proposed bolts and the improvements you describe is that all those improvements serve to minimize the impact of all those people heading up to the West Ridge. The dirt road, parking lot, bathroom and parts of the trail are also used by a much larger population than the relative handful who climb on the West Ridge. A bolt anchor, by contrast, would increase the impact caused by people accessing the West Ridge, and add to the numbers in an already crowded area.

The road through Eldo is a "nice road"? I guess that depends on how recently they've graded it.

Mark E Dixon · · Possunt, nec posse videntur · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 974

It's no problem if you slow down which is kind of the point I think.

Mike McHugh · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 420

Spurred on by a number of folks falling into the creek after the boulder problem, my crew and I hauled some big beasts over. The western descent from the slimy boulder problem is (hopefully) sorta similar to pre-flood conditions.

Some big rocks in a creek.

We also dragged some beasts to the south side of the boulder. It is possible to clamber over these things (whilst wearing a pack, even) rather than savor the slimy boulder problem. It's not a gimme, and I don't think a lot of non-climbing hikers will even notice that there's a way to get around the boulder.

South side steppers.

As always, use your common sense when accessing the West Ridge via the Streamside boulder. As big as those rocks are, the rising creek might destabilize them - step with care. It appears that the Gross Dam release rate changes at about noon - yesterday I was in the creek up to my nethers when it jumped from 50 to 70 cfs.

I'm sure this won't please everybody - I've tried to strike a balance between adding an option and preserving the Eldo experience.

Peace

William Thiry · · Las Vegas · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 311
mark felber wrote:The dirt road, parking lot, bathroom and parts of the trail are also used by a much larger population than the relative handful who climb on the West Ridge. A bolt anchor, by contrast, would increase the impact caused by people accessing the West Ridge, and add to the numbers in an already crowded area.
It's doubtful that adding anchors would increase numbers as some fear, it'll just make it a bit safer for those choosing to avoid the high waters.

And again, arguing against such simple little additions in order to keep the numbers down doesn't help the image that people have of Boulderites being annoying elitist snobs.

No offense, Mark. Just an observation/opinion.
goingUp · · over here · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 30

William (and others in favor of a bolt anchor)
why not just build a bridge then?
there are plenty of mtns and rocks around the world where access is limited to certain times of the year or the right conditions.
further, whatever happened to the journey, is the approach not a part of the climbing experience? there are several ways to access the West Ridge, Bolt anchors are certainly not needed.
You can wade the river, scamper the boulder problem, go over the boulder problem and downclimb, sling the tree prior to the down climb, or scramble past Morning Thunder.

Further, there is the other half the year when you can walk across the frozen river or boulder hop from the milton boulder, or slightly upstream..., you can also access from the upper parking lot and hike around via Rincon/shirt tail peak approach, granted this is far, it is possible.

One of the greatest parts of Eldo is the thought and consideration into Bolts (or even to replacing historic pins), and them being placed only where they are absolutely needed... There is not even a minor reason to put bolts in for the approach to the west ridge let alone life threatening reasons to constitute Bolting.
edit:imho

William Thiry · · Las Vegas · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 311
goingUp wrote:William (and others in favor of a bolt anchor) why not just build a bridge then? there are plenty of mtns and rocks around the world where access is limited to certain times of the year or the right conditions. further, whatever happened to the journey, is the approach not a part of the climbing experience? One of the greatest parts of Eldo is the thought and consideration into Bolts (or even to replacing historic pins), and them being placed only where they are absolutely needed... There is not even a minor reason to put bolts in for the approach to the west ridge let alone life threatening reasons to constitute Bolting. edit:imho
I'm actually pretty neutral about the idea for rappel bolts: I usually take the slippery streamside ramp (which seems to have been improved) or boulder-hop, so I don't really care too much. I just find it odd that you would rather see a bridge built than be exposed to the horrors of two tiny bolts which would basically be hidden from sight. Scamping up over the rock and rappelling down to the West Ridge trail sounds like it could be a fun part of the journey.

I can appreciate your desire to have Eldo be a pristine mountain setting, but in my humble opinion a few bolts here and there don't detract from that, especially when roads, bridges, bathrooms, and other public works already abound in the park.

And also, as you say, there are plenty of other mountain settings around where access is extremely limited, so if we want to experience such settings we have plenty of options, Eldo doesn't need to be one of them.
goingUp · · over here · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 30

William-
I wasnt trying to call you out, more piggy backing your comments.
I was using the build a bridge statement as a satire... going way over the top...
That is the last thing I would like to see.
I can appreciate your take on 'eldo is already developed why not increase access, especially with other remote places" but 1. I prefer to not bolt the world and 2. there already is more than adequate access.
Keep eldo historic. While the 21st century, our development and technology have left their mark on the Ecsp and other places, I like to think that we can continue to minimize our impact on the natural beauty, and natural feel as well as the history of these places.

William Thiry · · Las Vegas · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 311
goingUp wrote:William- I wasnt trying to call you out, more piggy backing your comments. I was using the build a bridge statement as a satire... going way over the top... That is the last thing I would like to see. I can appreciate your take on 'eldo is already developed why not increase access, especially with other remote places" but 1. I prefer to not bolt the world and 2. there already is more than adequate access. Keep eldo historic. While the 21st century, our development and technology have left their mark on the Ecsp and other places, I like to think that we can continue to minimize our impact on the natural beauty, and natural feel as well as the history of these places.
Fair enough. Keep climbing on!
plantmandan · · Brighton, CO · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 85

Mike, thank you, to you and your crew, for all of your hard work.

Dougald MacDonald · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2002 · Points: 842

Thanks, Mike, for taking this step and doing it thoughtfully. I recently did the low scrambling traverse (I guess it's the mid-level traverse) en route to replacing the Restop bag dispenser on behalf of Boulder Climbing Community, and I was startled by how sketchy/slippery the traverse has gotten at its west end. It is MUCH more polished and slippery than it was 10 or 20 years ago. It felt dangerous without a good landing, and I firmly support some subtle and "natural" mitigation to reduce accidental injuries (even drowning, in a worst-case scenario). If the West Ridge is a little more crowded as a result, so be it.

Jfriday1 · · Golden, CO · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 40

Thank You!!

Thegillest · · Boulder, Colorado · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 60

Hey McHugh, am I gunna get any credit for my idea on the steppers??

Steve Levin · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 952

Mike McHugh, thanks to you and the crew for all the hard work!

There is a very easy option to access the West Ridge via Streamside Trail when the water levels are too high to use the new boulder hop route:

From the sign at end of trail, scramble uphill past a large tree and up a reddish ramp (as if approaching Morning Thunder), then traverse north along a short ledge to an inset that is easily down climbed 15 feet (5.4) to the normal WR trail. You end up at the traverse boulder problem near the access to Allosaur.

Mike McHugh · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 420
Thegillest wrote:Hey McHugh, am I gunna get any credit for my idea on the steppers??
Gil: After reviewing the first page of this thread, it appears that you did not have an original idea. I award you no points, and may God have mercy on your soul.

It seems like you have some passion for Eldo. Why don't you sign up for a trail class or volunteer day? PM me when you're ready to stop riding the pine.
Thegillest · · Boulder, Colorado · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 60
Mike McHugh wrote: Gil: After reviewing the first page of this thread, it appears that you did not have an original idea. I award you no points, and may God have mercy on your soul. It seems like you have some passion for Eldo. Why don't you sign up for a trail class or volunteer day? PM me when you're ready to stop riding the pine.
God huh? Pine huh? I think anyone with two eyes and a brain realizes this project is way overdue. PM me when you're ready to stop riding the public sector gravy train.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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