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Best multi pitch hand cracks

Original Post
Jake wander · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 195

Hey I'm looking for people's favorite multipitch climbs that offer a significant section of good hands. I really am loving hand cracks these days. It does not need to be the whole route or even a whole pitch, but hopefully it would be long enough to be memorable. For example, I really enjoyed the third pitch on Bon homme at Devils tower.

I've got Bastille and sunshine crack on my list.

Thanks

Tee Kay · · Seattle, WA · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 110
mountainproject.com/v/outer…

watch for ticks, goats and lots of other parties on the weekends...
Em Cos · · Boulder, CO · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 5

What size crack is "good hands" to you?

Jake wander · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 195

DT that climb looks awesome. Thanks.

Good for my hands is in the c4 1-2 size. I'm not against sections of fingers, fists or easy OW but that climb DT just mentioned sounds like exactly what I'm looking for.

Dylan Pike · · Knoxville, TN · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 488
Tee Kay · · Seattle, WA · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 110
Jake wander wrote:DT that climb looks awesome. I'm not against sections of fingers, fists or easy OW but that climb DT just mentioned sounds like exactly what I'm looking for.
You're welcome. Its a chickenhead heaven too. we couldn't stop giggling. Its definitely aptly named and ultra classic.
Jacob Smith · · Seattle, WA · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 230

The Headache in Zion
Rattletale in Index

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 252

Uh...why are we missing the obvious one?

mountainproject.com/v/super…

matt c. · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 155
Josh Kornish · · Whitefish, MT · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 800

stove legs on the nose

Andrew Mayer · · Driggs, ID · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 131

haven't climbed it yet but this:

mountainproject.com/v/cente…

Dylan Pike · · Knoxville, TN · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 488
Ted Pinson wrote:Uh...why are we missing the obvious one? mountainproject.com/v/super…
I dont think pitch 2 is a handcrack...or done that often. If we include supercrack, we might as well just include all of ic
Jake wander · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 195

thanks everyone.

how many groups am i likely to encounter climbing the center route in south platte on say a friday or saturday in late august?

Eric8 · · Maynard, MA · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 310

Sunshine, Yes!
High Planes Drifter
Outer Space
Serenity-Sons, okay most fingers but has some good hands sections too!

Jonathan S · · Golden, CO · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 176
Jake wander wrote:thanks everyone. how many groups am i likely to encounter climbing the center route in south platte on say a friday or saturday in late august?
Center Route on Cynical Pinnacle is popular (and fabulous), but it is hit and miss in terms of crowds. You just never know if a couple other parties will be there the same day or not. And unfortunately there isn't a lot of other good climbs at the grade close by (unless you walk all the way to Sunshine Wall).

Also, August would be way to hot. Better in the Fall or even February before bird closures. It is practically a solar collector and mostly protected from the prevailing (West) winds.
cnadel · · San Francisco, CA · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 5

The Line 5.9
Lover's Leap, CA

mountainproject.com/v/the-l…

Geoff Georges · · Seattle, WA · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 4,649

Triassic Sands

Max McKee · · Monterey, CA · Joined Dec 2015 · Points: 35

The Grack is pretty sweet!

Alexander K · · The road · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 130

If you do Bastille, Handcracker Direct has one pitch of pretty good handcrack at the top. You can also get on West Crack (Star Wars) which is as splitter as Eldo gets.

Mark Dalen · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 1,002

Jake wander - I've always been partial to this hand crack on a 9 pitch route my partners & I put up in the Wind Rivers nearly 4 decades ago ...

Pipeline - P5

The bad news is, it's about 12 miles in from Dickinson Park (or a day hike down from the Cirque of the Towers, if that's where you happen to be) ... the good news is, you're very like to cop the 3rd ascent, or 2nd free ascent overall.

If Sunshine Crack is on your list, this one is only a little bigger investment getting to ... the FFA party concurs the crux is P1 ... after that comes a series of crack systems going from fingers to hands to layback, finally to the scenic cruise that is P5 (top part shown in the photo).

Why am I promoting this route? Well, mainly because it has languished in obscurity for nearly 38 years ... I could say this was because of the scarcity of forums to document it at the time (basically the AAJ & Climbing). But the truth is, we never tried. Being a group of unknown climbers from New Mexico, we weren't sure the route would be taken seriously. Call this an effort to rectify that oversight ...

As compared with some of the other hand cracks mentioned here - Reed's Direct or Moby Dick or Grack Center - it stacks up quite favorably. Furthermore, though P5 is only one out of 9, I can honestly say there is not a bad pitch on the route. Throw in the other lines in the area still awaiting 2nd ascents, not to mention some prospective 1st ascents, think the area rewards the effort getting to ... & I would personally love to see them gain wider attention ...

jordand · · Seattle, WA · Joined May 2012 · Points: 100
Sunshine Crack in the Bugaboos is mostly hands. It's also one of the most fun multipitch routes I've ever climbed.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

General Climbing
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