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new cams?

Healyje · · PDX · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 422
Rob T wrote:As for the resale market, we've navigated slings and ropes for years, I think it's going to be ok
We're not going to be ok 10-20 years down the road - slings and ropes are obvious, the use of slings in these cams is not and people will end up leading on them way, way after their intended lifetime.
don'tchuffonme · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 26

ZOMGWTF we're all gonna die? Here's a nugget of perspective: Do your research. Be responsible for your gear choices. Know the limitations and the benefits.

Why is everyone so hell bent on dissuading or persuading people one way or the other? We get it. It's a horrible product manufactured for two subsets of climbers: Alpinists with money, and people that want to look like climbers that have money. You don't have to be everyone's parent.

When you labor on and on and on and on with your point, you just look like a control freak.

Breathe.

bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065

so chuffs da CHUFFAH !!!

kettles, black pots, and all dat

;)

don'tchuffonme · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 26
bearbreeder wrote: kettles, black pots, and all dat
Right. Because I'm the one that feels the need to preach to everyone and post incessantly on every thread so that there is no question that I AM THE AUTHORITY in the subject on which I comment.

Wait. That's you.

Hawties, whippahz, foreign spec sheets from 1997, and so forth and so on. Ad nauseum.

;)
bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065

blah blah blah little chuffer

dun chuff dat hard now whinning about chuffing

every one of your post has been about you chuffing ... not like you ever contributed anything except for a chuff

HAHAHA

;)

Ball · · Oakridge, OR · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 70
bearbreeder wrote:UL mastercams
Those things suck, BTW. Just one man's opinion (substantiated by trying to place those squirrely things).

Not a fan of the Petzl Ange either, or the helium.

I mean, fine, I'm not using steel ovals and 11m ropes, but saving weight for gear that places and clips poorly doesn't make sense to me. Also, I do fall on gear and want it to survive a few falls. That's probably why my link cams are collecting dust...
Ball · · Oakridge, OR · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 70

PS: Am I the only one who has bent lobes on his C4?

Pete Spri · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 347
Seth Kane wrote: Except the max range on the metolius #8 is 77.4 mm so the black diamond are still lighter per mm of range as a set. (8.5 g/mm for BD vs. 9.95 g/mm for met, so ~15% lighter/mm averaged across the entire range). Comparing weight as a set isn't very useful when the BD #3 is significantly bigger.
True, so you have to compare met 1-7 to bd .3-2, and Metolius again wins on weight & units.
Pete Spri · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 347
Seth Kane wrote: Not sure why you'd include the Met 1/BD .3 as it's outside of the range of the BD ULs. I get 9.13 g/mm for BD ULs (.4-2, 15.5-64.9mm) and 10.15 g/mm for Met (2-7, 15.4-63.5mm). For comparison regular C4s are 12.3 g/mm in the same range.
Right, you are cherry picking mm of range, not total weight or units available.

.4, .5, .75, 1, 2 bd 5 units, 460g = 92g/unit
2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7 met 6 units, 488g = 81.3g/unit
bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065
Seth Kane wrote: Except the max range on the metolius #8 is 77.4 mm so the black diamond are still lighter per mm of range as a set. (8.5 g/mm for BD vs. 9.95 g/mm for met, so ~15% lighter/mm averaged across the entire range). Comparing weight as a set isn't very useful when the BD #3 is significantly bigger.
generally the large purple metolius is roughly comparable to the big blue BD is actual use ... for many years folks have been using em just fine

sure you get a bit more range with the BD blue ... but then with the metolius you get an extra cam which can be just as useful

as one can see the closest equivalent to the BD blue is the metolius purple ...unless one uses "copy cams" (dragons or the new WC) the ranges will never be exact

UL camalots vs metolius absolute ranges

not to mention the UL mastercams have a narrower head and will fit in places the BDs wont

and they arent cams that you MUST dispose (or at least not resell of) in less than 10 years even if in "good" condition

folks have been making the same argument over the C4s an the UL TCU/powercams for a decade now ... except that the C4s were never disposable cams

Ball wrote: Those things suck, BTW. Just one man's opinion (substantiated by trying to place those squirrely things). Not a fan of the Petzl Ange either, or the helium. I mean, fine, I'm not using steel ovals and 11m ropes, but saving weight for gear that places and clips poorly doesn't make sense to me. Also, I do fall on gear and want it to survive a few falls. That's probably why my link cams are collecting dust...
my purple link cam has take 20+ whippahz

you should whip on yours

;)
Ball · · Oakridge, OR · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 70
bearbreeder wrote:my purple link cam has take 20+ whippahz you should whip on yours ;)
Pavel Burov · · Russia · Joined May 2013 · Points: 50
Brian L. · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 90
Brock B. wrote:According to Black Diamond: With normal use and proper care, the typical lifespan of an Ultralight Camalot is three to five years.
Bringing this back up because I happened to be looking for the lifespan information today. It's no longer in the instructions!

If you look at the 2015 instructions it says 3-5 year typical, 10 years max.
demandware.edgesuite.net/aa…

In the new 2016 instructions they don;t list ANY lifespan at all!
demandware.edgesuite.net/aa…

Seem's BD didn't like the bad press, but seems pretty disingenuous. Clearly nothing's changed with the product.
JDMCO · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2015 · Points: 0
Brian L. wrote: Bringing this back up because I happened to be looking for the lifespan information today. It's no longer in the instructions! If you look at the 2015 instructions it says 3-5 year typical, 10 years max. demandware.edgesuite.net/aa… In the new 2016 instructions they don;t list ANY lifespan at all! demandware.edgesuite.net/aa… Seem's BD didn't like the bad press, but seems pretty disingenuous. Clearly nothing's changed with the product.
Looks like right in the left hand corner of the hieroglyphs there is one that says "<10yrs" is that not a lifespan?
Brian L. · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 90

Ah, I missed that. Looks like the combined instructions with the regular C4?

I do think it would be better to have included it in the text, along with the illustration. some like "Some components may have a limited shelf life. See illustration for details".

The text makes it seem like there is no timeline. Although maybe I only missed it because I specifically expected it there due to it previously being there. Most people probably look at the pictures first, and never read the text.

jackscoldsweat · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 15

Has anyone tried (or know of..) gutting/tear down on an UL Camalot? I'm curious to know if 're-slinging' the Continuous Dyneema Core is possible.

JCS

Taylor Lapeyre · · San Francisco, CA · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 179

Wow, talk about a thread resurrection

jackscoldsweat · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 15

"bring out yer dead!"

JCS

Fast Eddie McBradish · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 1,620

Nope--its built in and once riveted to the head its a done deal--FEB

chris blatchley · · woodinville, wa · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 6

i didn't see the dates on the OP and was reading a link about BD's new gym-to-crag lineup and thought it was satire...

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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