The deadly ATC, climbing friend

Hip belay? Hip belay, you say!? ("We don't need no stinkin' belay devices!" --Blazing Craggers, a film.)This is very ancient history, but we forgot our Sticht plate one day as we set out for Hair City (or something on the west end of the Bastille). I ended up holding about a 15-20 foot lead fall as my partner headed up the first pitch. It worked, it was definitely a very dynamic/soft catch, but it wasn't very fun. We used it a lot, though, to bring up a second--as long as it was pretty certain they wouldn't be hanging on the rope for any extended period of time.

Climbing friend Aleks, you must have strong elbow tendons from the fish head extractions. Alas, I do not. Unlike ATC, Mega Jul does not play nicely with old 10.2 rope, especially belaying seconds. Thankfully, newish 9.1 is smooth as butter.

T340 wrote:Hip belay? All kidding aside, has anyone here ever used a hip belay even?

When I first started climbing I bought "Learning to Rock Climb" by Michael Loughman. The book taught the hip belay exclusively; that's how I belayed for the first year. I lived in a backwater town with some decent crags nearby and was pretty isolated from the climbing scene... Never had even a close call while hip belaying my friend who outweighed me by 70 pounds. It's still the fastest way to belay a second on easy terrain and completely safe if you know what you're doing.

n00b wrote: Not only has your "Aleks" schtick been tired and dumb since a week after you started it, but now you're trolling the forum with tired and dumb arguments that have been done to death? Get a life.

climbing friend,

I block your wang slap, and I slap your wang with frozen fish of considerable size! through tubes of internet! Then it falls off on the ground, and I shtomp on it and sqvuish it!

mediocre wrote:Jesus noob, did You catch AZ banging your sister or something? Little pent up energy there.

climbing friend,

I so sorry if you hear me before on these topic, but your pent up sexual frustration is excellent motivation for hangboarding, and while utilizing the spreadsheets, yesssssssssss

Mark E Dixon wrote:Humor is hard. Sometimes Aleks nails it, sometimes he doesn't. I appreciate the effort. Not enough humor in MP or climbing in general.

Climbing friend,

The only thing hard here are my hulking guns, chiseled abs, stunning features, and vast quantities of high-quality neck meat! Ho ho ho ha ha!

Mark E Dixon wrote:Humor is hard. Sometimes Aleks nails it, sometimes he doesn't. I appreciate the effort. Not enough humor in MP or climbing in general.

+1

I occasionally use the ATC for sport lines, but only if the bolting is funky (i.e. hard clips with deck potential). Sometimes in those situations as a belayer I can't afford to run a loop of slack because of deck potential, and hosing their clip when trying to feed slack in a hurry could be catastrophic.

Almost never an issue at actual sport crags, but I've done it a fair amount in JT.

And sure, I almost never hose someone clipping with the grigri, but it does happen. Even after using one since they first came out all those years ago, and using the petzl rec'd method, once in a blue moon I'll go to throw slack for a clip in a hurry and lock the device. I throw slack on a grigri by pinching the cam open with a thumb on the cam piece and my finger tips under the little lip on the side, not the "grab around the whole device" old method that can lead to holding the cam open in a fall.

friend Aleks, I am eating the fish heads for sending and ignoring the little n00b man trolling for pee-pee slap fight.

Aleks Zebastian wrote: climbing friend, I block your wang slap, and I slap your wang with frozen fish of considerable size! through tubes of internet! Then it falls off on the ground, and I shtomp on it and sqvuish it!

Climbing friend- Do you have a name for that move.

Also, climbing friend, why do you care what your belayer uses?! It can only kill you if you fall. It makes no difference during a bold flash! -- Please don't hit me with your frozen wang for the backsass.

T340 wrote:Hip belay? All kidding aside, has anyone here ever used a hip belay even?

Yep. Learned to belay with a hip belay in the early 80's. Caught a 50 footer in Boulder Canyon in '84 with a hip belay.

Can't really believe how much of this thread I just read. It's belaying. Be really good at it. It's really easy to be a great belayer and it's really easy to be a shitty belayer. Use whatever device you want regardless of arena. I grab a random belay device from the arsenal purely based on my laziness, interest or who I am climbing with. If my buddy is projecting, maybe the GriGri but maybe not!! Crazy, I know. Just know how to use them all, use them well and laugh next time someone tries to critisize your choice of tool for the job because in the end, any device will catch your partner as long as you are a proficient operator.

Jon Sullivan wrote:Can't really believe how much of this thread I just read. It's belaying. Be really good at it. It's really easy to be a great belayer and it's really easy to be a shitty belayer. Use whatever device you want regardless of arena. I grab a random belay device from the arsenal purely based on my laziness, interest or who I am climbing with. If my buddy is projecting, maybe the GriGri but maybe not!! Crazy, I know. Just know how to use them all, use them well and laugh next time someone tries to critisize your choice of tool for the job because in the end, any device will catch your partner as long as you are a proficient operator.

climbing friend,

If your partner they use deadly ATC and their arteries are clogged from many year of ramming cheesesteaks down their throats, and they suffer the rockfall, heart attack or stroke while you are on your sick-proj-yeah-brah, then the rope it simply does zip through the deadly ATC with no chance of catching. And you say yes it is just your time to die I accept my fate in whole, and I do not wish my climbing friend they use the grigri, even though it more likely than not would catch me?

Quite terrifying, yes. It make me think of the daddy long legs. What is this "daddy long legs?" I do not like this. who did name you?

T340 wrote:Hip belay? All kidding aside, has anyone here ever used a hip belay even?

Yeah, but on 4th class/moderate snow terrain. I clipped myself to a single bomber cam though

Just pick smart people to belay your ass. With few exceptions, most devices need only a "competent" person who is experienced with, what they are using, to belay you.

s.price wrote:AZ, The year was 1863 in Kentucky. Not far from RRG. Carole Howard, a curious nine year old was playing under the front porch one evening when she spied the strange bug. Carefully placing it in her hand she gently closed her fingers over it and crawled up onto the porch to show her pa and his friends who were workin fast on a jug of moonshine and a fat blunt. Daddy she says, What izzz this? Slowly unfolding her fingers her old man and his friends all lean in close for a good look. They all look at the bug then at each other. Blank faces all around. Don't rightly know, says her dad. Anybody? The bottle and the blunt make another round. Faces as blank as the Dawn Wall. Carole jumps up and down and screams, But Daddy, what izzzzz it?! Sorry honey, he says. All Daddy can see iz them long legs. That's how Daddy Long Legs got their name.

BUT WHO DID NAME YOU?