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Best bouldering shoes for duck feet

Original Post
Eric K · · Leavenworth, WA · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 45

I have a pair of solutions and although they are amazing climbing shoes, after climbing in an appropriately wide shoe, 5.10 verdon, my feet dread going back into the solution. So I'm in the market for a new aggressive bouldering shoe. Ive got duck feet so I need a really wide toe box. What are your suggestions? I have been very pleased with the Verdon and wonder if 5.10 team (black) or dragon would be a good option. What else should I look into?

Will S · · Joshua Tree · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 1,061

I have a similar wide forefoot, narrow heel, low volume foot shape. I climb almost exclusively in Five-Ten Anasazi models, velcros lace and slippers.

But, the ansazis are a flat shoe, not aggressive and downturned. My advice would be to try the Blackwing, Arrowheads, and Hi-Angle.

I could never get a good fit in the Team, nor anything with the Dragon last. Those last shapes seem narrower in the forefoot to me. Quantums didn't work for me due to last/toebox shape, seemed pretty close to the dragon. Arrowheads didn't work for me, not due to shape (the fit was really good), but the location of where the rand ended was exactly on the point of my bent toe-knuckles and caused a pressure point that would destroy the skin there.

Sportivas entire line seems narrower in the forefoot in my experience.

DR · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2014 · Points: 947

La Sportiva Miura VS or Scarpa Vapor V.

David Keller · · Denver, CO · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 0

I've got those duck feet as well. The best shoes for my feet (wide forefoot, medium heel, morton's toe) are the scarpa instinct line. The newer instinct v is a sick shoe, but a bit narrower in my opinion than the lace version. Good luck!

germsauce Epstein · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 55

i've got super wide toe box and tenayas have become my go-to. they can size up a little (not overly aggressively painfully small) they are very comfortable and perform really well. on my 4th pair since i first got some a few years ago. wearing the Oasi these days, but the Ra is great too if you want something less downturned.

Caz Drach · · C'Wood, UT · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 310

Boreal Satori... i have wide feet and they work great. Got 3 pairs..

I got a pair 9.5 UK (10-10.5 US) I can part with.

JK- Branin · · NYC-ish · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 56

I'm extremely duck footed, and have really good luck with basically every scarpa except the boostic. The instinct lace and the vapor I've been especially happy with.

ChrisN · · Morro Bay, CA · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 25

Scarpa Vapor fits my wide feet very well. Agressive enough for bouldering.

My feet don't fit into anything made by LaSportiva for reference.

Eric K · · Leavenworth, WA · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 45
germsauce wrote:i've got super wide toe box and tenayas have become my go-to. they can size up a little (not overly aggressively painfully small) they are very comfortable and perform really well. on my 4th pair since i first got some a few years ago. wearing the Oasi these days, but the Ra is great too if you want something less downturned.
I have been interested in the Tenaya shoes. Why did you chose the Oasi over the lati? How did you size them compared to your street shoes? Lastly, is the Oasi a stiff, soft or somewhere in-between shoe.
Steven Kovalenko · · Calgary · Joined May 2014 · Points: 25

I have pinky toe bunions, which result in a wide forefoot. I have a narrow heel, low volume foot. I climb almost exclusively in Scarpa - mountain boots, approach shoes, rock shoes, etc. Their Instinct line has been great, including the VS for bouldering. TechnoX has been an acceptable all-day trad shoe, when sized appropriately.

No luck with Tenaya's or 5.10's. I find Tenaya too similar to La Sportiva.

ScoJo · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 481

+1 on the Scarpa Vaper Vs. I have pretty wide feet, and these fit my feet better than anything else I've tried. I don't think they're the most aggressive shoe though, if that's what you're looking for. I'd like to try some more aggressive shoes myself to see if it makes much of a difference.

Nick Drake · · Kent, WA · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 651
Steven Kovalenko wrote: TechnoX has been an acceptable all-day trad shoe, when sized appropriately.
What did that end up being relative to your street shoe? I went a half size down from street fit, based on reviews on backcounty saying they would stretch a half size. How wrong that was, I have to pop my heel out at belays to give my big toe some room.
Harry Netzer · · Roxbury, CT · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 145

Miura vs. I have a wide toe area and run exclusively in Altras for that reason. LS says testarossa and the slipper no-edge fit broad feet similarly to the Miura vs.

that guy named seb · · Britland · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 236

scarpa, vapor v are super stiff and clunky, like a down turned brick. Go for some of their newer models, allot more flexible.

Doug Lintz · · Kearney, NE · Joined Apr 2004 · Points: 1,196

I have wide feet and really like the Verdons too. With that in mind, you might want to try the newer version of the Blackwing.

Brie Abram · · Celo, NC · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 493

I have a wide forefoot that goes numb in TC Pros. The Genius fits a lot wider on me. Pretty specifically a steeps shoe.

Scarpa Instinct VS is pretty awesome. Can toe in well, but it still manages to do pretty well even on crack climbs due to the flat toe box. The only thing it doesn't do okay on is really thin slopey slab.

Scarpa Feroce has been around for a long time in a few different forms and has been overlooked I think as a moderately aggressive shoe that can be a good all arounder. Sort of like a Velcro version of the Katana Lace. Maintains its downturn. I don't think it's as aggressive as you're looking for, though it's good at just about everything

Aleks Zebastian · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 175

climbing friend,

you are welcome

duck feet

Tom M · · EU, PL · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 20

For the last few months I've been testing new Skwama from La Sportiva they are a bit wider then Solution also the tip is a little less pointy, not sure if the new S-hell is actually an improvement but YMMV. Skwama's toe hooking rubber feels better. Both are the same size 41.5.
Skwama in action
Maybe not an impressive problem but they did ok and most days I'm still beating my Instinct VS.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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