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Routes in Middle Sugarloaf / Main Face
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"Center Cliff Rap Line" T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c |
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"Suzy Q" Rap Line from the Top T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c |
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Bullit - 2nd Alternate Slab Start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Bullit - P1 Original F.A. Start (5.6-5.7 PG/R) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Electrician’s Route T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Life by the Numbers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Link-Up: P1 Bolt in the Sky to P3 Life By the Numbers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Medussa (1st alternate start to Bullit) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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North (right) End Descent Gully T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a |
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Rapier T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Rock Candy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Saber T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Saber Rattler T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Scepter T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Sea of Green T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Sea of Green Direct Start T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X |
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Skyline Promenade 5.9 R/X (?) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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South (Left) Descent Gully T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a |
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Steve's Twilight T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Suzy Q (Ascent of the middle Rap-line route) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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When the Dog Bites T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
| Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Ed Webster and Paul Cormier |
| Page Views: | 4,998 total · 49/month |
| Shared By: | Robert Hall on Nov 7, 2015 · Updates |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
Description
Originally listed in MP as "The Green Mile" the name has been corrected Feb 2017 per info in "The Notches", and previous verbal info that indicated "The Green Mile" was incorrect.
The person who showed me this climb said: If this were at Cathedral they would start lining up for it at 5am.
START: 2021 Update - The 5-6” diameter pine tree has been blown down, so the best start now scrambles up its upended root system. Start about 30-35 ft left of Saber, or 100-120 feet right of Bolt in the Sky.
Originally, P1 was long and P2 (with a gear anchor) was short. However, in late 2015 a new route (Rock Candy) was put in which crossed Sea of Green, and Sea of Green is now better climbed using the double bolt anchor put in on a great ledge of that climb.
P1 - Scramble up behind the upended root system to the low angle, wide crack and climb the corner. Step left and clip the bolt and onto THE CRACK. Climb the crack ( DUH !) until you can move right to a double bolt anchor. 80 ft 5.6+ to 5.7
P2 - Move right and up over, and into, a second crack. Climb the second crack (DUH!) [nice surprise!] When this second crack narrows and ends, step left onto the white face and climb it (5.4-5.5 PG-13 / R ) to a stance on a 6-8inch ledge with a crack to the left. [This is the original P1 belay spot, it takes a green (#1) and/or red (# 1.5) Camalot]
Climb directly up, pass by the 2-foot-diameter hole ( complete with its own garden) into a corner that starts to curve right. Protect, then step left over the corner (brushed footholds in the correct place, DUH!) onto the face above and the final low-angle crack. Double bolt anchor 20-25 ft left, or belay off gear. About 160-180 ft, 5.4 -5.5 PG-13/R
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