Terrible No Good Very Bad "Classic" Areas

tim wrote:it's ok to not like scary climbing, I hope it doesn't make u feel like less of a man.

Objective danger (or exposure/remoteness for that matter) can add to or detract from climbing, depending on your taste. IMO, it can't make bad climbs into good ones. But there are million ways of scaring yourself, only climbing is climbing.

Fun thread, I'll bite. Rumney is really not that cool. Some classics nestled between a bunch of short weird routes, bad weather, crowds and bugs. Guaranteed to rain. Lumpy is a dream if you like slabby flared buttcrack climbing. Sure, it's pretty but why hike that far to climb slab?
Portrero: where sport climbers go to climb multipitch routes with vacation grades. Better off learning to climb trad if you want to get off the ground.

The gunks. That place is over hyped just because it has easily accessible multi pitch with great exposure and huge roofs. Climbers would be much better off checking out areas like Birdsboro and the New Jersey side of DWG.

I think I made my thoughts pretty clear in naming this one...

mountainproject.com/v/fuck-…

gumbotron wrote: Lumpy is a dream if you like slabby flared buttcrack climbing. Sure, it's pretty but why hike that far to climb slab?

Because everyone else is in Eldo!

So everywhere sucks?

Five15Factor2 wrote:So everywhere sucks?

Except the Valley.

I have been to National Parks thought the US, in Canada and in Europe. Joshua Tree is among the most beautiful and unique places I have been. You can also climb there.

Get your heads of out of your asses!

If classic climbing is defined as well protected, consolidated rock, lack of crowds, pristine, remote, accessible, "true to the grade", and not over developed then we are running extremely short on classic climbing in the US.

However, if a place/route is defined as classic due to it's historical significance, how it exemplifies a certain style, how the climbing remains consistent, how aesthetically pleasing it is, how unique it is, or all of the above then the only place on this list that would qualify would be Jack's Canyon.

I may not like pulling on really hard sport routes but I can guarantee Smith Rock and Virgin River Gorge are classic sport crags. Weather I like the style of climbing there or not these places will remain classic due to their historical significance and how they represent hard sport climbing in the US.

I really like long traditional routes, this doesn't rule JTree out of being classic. What was going on at that place during the early days of the Sierra Club and later by the likes of John Bachar, Jay Anderson, Yabo, (this list could go on) makes this place a cauldron of historical significance. Additionally, quality climbing away from people is only limited by one's willingness to hike.

I believe it is easier to appreciate a place when I take the time to understand it's history, when I recognize it's significance, and when I can see how it may have given way to the next door to be open in the never ending progress of this awesome community/sport/lifestyle/hobby/pursuit/escape.

Cheers
-Chris

Josh.... I can't believe all of the hype. BITD we only went there as a last resort. When the snow ran you out of T&S, you you didn't have enuf time to get to the Valley/Needles/Sierra..... it was "OK, how about Josh...sigh" and remember that was when it was a free and wild place. The National Park status was the stake through the heart.

but my head IS up my ass anyway.... I know nothing

JoeCrawford wrote:What about J-tree do people not like? Genuinely curious as it rivals Indian Creek for my favorite single-pitch area.

Most of the things that I love about JTree is also what I hate about it. I climb there almost exclusively in the winter.

1. Sandbagged. Sometimes, the climbs are grades without taking into account the crux. Usually the sand and grit that falls off the route is collected in a giant-gaping-fuck-you-bag of sand.
2. It is terrifying. I often wimper on lead here. If the climb is a 5.10, then that 40 foot, 5.9, ground 'fall run-out does not make it an R. It's easy! You'r not going to fall. Right?
3. It is filled with fucking poodles. Oodles of them.
4. The rock hurts. It pokey and gritty and will eat your hands and fingers.
5. Sometimes little pieces of rock fall off while you are climbing.
6. Sometimes big pieces of rock fall off while you are climbing.
7. It's to hot and too cold.
8. Fucking slab climbing.

Shaun Johnson wrote:J Tree is by far the most overhyped climbing destination in the west coast.

+1

I will probably catch flack from my SoAz friends, but I have always thought Mt Lemmon is way over-hyped. IMHO there are a few really great lines surrounded by lots & lots & lots of average climbing.

mnjsan wrote:The gunks. That place is over hyped just because it has easily accessible multi pitch with great exposure and huge roofs. Climbers would be much better off checking out areas like Birdsboro and the New Jersey side of DWG.

I learned to climb in the Gunks and some one described it as the most fun place to climb in the states but I have to agree it overrated. Eldo is better and Yosemite better that both.

J-tree is a great place to hike. Other than that I haven't been on many routes I'd ever wish to repeat. The bouldering is decent, I love the stories from the 70's & 80's about the culture and the infancy of sport climbing. So-cal owes alot to Josh, but for trad I prefer Taquitz.

Climbers are embarrassing

My Picks are: 1.) Hueco Tanks, it is run like a police state, so everything about visiting is a hassle. The climbs are either super hard or super run out, without much in the middle. Bouldering is good but overrated. Isolated. 2.) Red River Gorge, Its always either too hot or too wet, it is FILLED with gumbys that tie up vast swaths of any given wall, dogs and drama everywhere. The rock is great for overhanging routes, but otherwise not ideal. Miguel's was cool in the mid nineties, but is now completely overrun by cabals of climbers. 3.) The Gunks, cool routes, but totally crowded, to the point where parking and visiting is a complete headache. Or the Queen Creek area outside of Phoenix, crumbly, short, and overrated.

I was going to go out climbing at my classic area, but now that I heard it sucks i'm gonna go hit the gym instead.

In all seriousness, I haven't found a place that I disliked after getting used to the style. Maybe Joshua Tree bouldering. But once I found the Jtree cracks, life was much better.

I am about an hour from rumny. great climbing but the crowds suck. have not been summer climbing there in 4 years... The gunks are much farther away for me but I avoid them for the same reason.

You guys are all so spoiled. :0