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The deadly ATC, climbing friend

Original Post
Aleks Zebastian · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 175

climbing friend,

why is it that the peoples feel the need to go sport climbing on the climbing rocks with the deadly ATC? Do they not know that they make superior sport climber afraid to let them belay with less foolproof device? Do they feel the need to pretend that they trad climb more than they actually are doing?

I have done the witnessing of climbing in party of 3, where one invites another, and they exchange nervous glances with me upon realizing that the newer climber is going to belay them on the hard line with ATC, ho ho ho.

deadly atc
I see it on your harness
hope you don't drop me

climbing friend come on
can you not purchase grigri
or the mega jul?

Tom Jones · · Calgary, AB · Joined May 2012 · Points: 7,302

ATCs work. I like grigris too. But for sport climbing, an assisted braker is generally better imo.

ChrisN · · Morro Bay, CA · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 25

If you use a GriGri when trad climbing, people give you funny looks.

If you use an ATC when sport climbing, people give you funny looks.

If you use a GriGri sport climbing, people say things like "people need to learn how to belay on an ATC before they switch to GriGris".

Whatever you do, someone will disagree.

scott fuzz · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 125
ChrisN wrote:If you use a GriGri when trad climbing, people give you funny looks. If you use an ATC when sport climbing, people give you funny looks. If you use a GriGri sport climbing, people say things like "people need to learn how to belay on an ATC before they switch to GriGris". Whatever you do, someone will disagree.
way to rational of a response, CN . climbing fiend needs to get at least 3 pages outa this-
n00b · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 0
Aleks Zebastian wrote:climbing friend, why is it that the peoples feel the need to go sport climbing on the climbing rocks with the deadly ATC? Do they not know that they make superior sport climber afraid to let them belay with less foolproof device? Do they feel the need to pretend that they trad climb more than they actually are doing? I have done the witnessing of climbing in party of 3, where one invites another, and they exchange nervous glances with me upon realizing that the newer climber is going to belay them on the hard line with ATC, ho ho ho. deadly atc I see it on your harness hope you don't drop me climbing friend come on can you not purchase grigri or the mega jul?
Not only has your "Aleks" schtick been tired and dumb since a week after you started it, but now you're trolling the forum with tired and dumb arguments that have been done to death?

Get a life.
mediocre · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 0

Jesus noob, did You catch AZ banging your sister or something? Little pent up energy there.

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276
n00b wrote: Not only has your "Aleks" schtick been tired and dumb since a week after you started it, but now you're trolling the forum with tired and dumb arguments that have been done to death? Get a life.
You just signed up a month ago and you're already criticizing legends like Aleks?
n00b · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 0
FrankPS wrote: You just signed up a month ago and you're already criticizing trolls like Aleks?
Fixed that for you.
Redyns · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 60

it's not that the device is defective, it's the belayer.
what an ignorant post.

Kristen Fiore · · Burlington, VT · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 3,378

How is it not widely common knowledge that Aleks Zebastian posts almost exclusively troll posts? C'mon people.

Is it funny as hell? Yeah. Is it basically satire? Also, yeah.

He wrote it as a haiku for God's sake! hahaha

Bill Kirby · · Keene New York · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480

I don't understand why people go sport climbing at all! Belay devices are weak. Hip belay bitches!

Mark E Dixon · · Possunt, nec posse videntur · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 974

Humor is hard.

Sometimes Aleks nails it, sometimes he doesn't.

I appreciate the effort. Not enough humor in MP or climbing in general.

ChaseSmallwood · · Paris, TX · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 30

I'm a fairly new climbers, 1 solid year. I first learned with an ATC, but soon bought a GriGri 2. I moved from top rope to sport probably a little too soon, but given my area TR is very limited. Now that I am a little more experienced. I find myself using the ATC more and more. I only use my GriGri when running laps on TR with my climbibg parties. I have a desire to move more towards trad and mountaineering, and figured the longer I avoided the ATC, the longer it would take to learn valuable skills.

Magpie79 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2011 · Points: 0
scott fuzz wrote: climbing fiend
Intentional, or Freudian typo?
Bill Shubert · · Lexington, MA · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 55

Climbing Friends,

I think the ATC is just as safe for sport climbing as a grigri. But I have an open mind, especially when an expert climber like Aleks disagrees with me. So I think we need to decide, and here is how: I belay Aleks with my ATC for a week on difficult sport projects. If he lives, then I'm right and the ATC is safe. If I fumble the belay and he ends up decking from high on the route, then I will concede that he is (was) correct and I will switch to using a grigri in the future.

JohnSol · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 15
Bill Shubert wrote:Climbing Friends, I think the ATC is just as safe for sport climbing as a grigri. But I have an open mind, especially when an expert climber like Aleks disagrees with me. So I think we need to decide, and here is how: I belay Aleks with my ATC for a week on difficult sport projects. If he lives, then I'm right and the ATC is safe. If I fumble the belay and he ends up decking from high on the route, then I will concede that he is (was) correct and I will switch to using a grigri in the future.
Neck meat pumped from a bold flash attempt has amazing rebound properties, there will be no injury to the climber in this case, but Shubert should probably wear a welding mask to protect from the brightness of rock vaporizing.
Kyle Fowler · · Jackson, MS · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 25

Dear climbing friend, i am always looking for ur post when i am on my computer phone so please do not be discouraged by someone who awakened on wrong side of their soiled futon. I believe these posts are sparking thoughts in the brains of these miserable excrement which is likely the only reason they are still occupying spaces where rock walls should be. I use atc because i am very poor and i make sure to compensate by not blinking. Ever. Also the crushing of the fish heads and other activities which should not be mentioned. P.s. what is a shtick? If it can be attached to my harness please send me one.

Rick Blair · · Denver · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 266

I dig my Mega Jul but I thought the most common belay accident was lowering your partner off the end of the rope which an auto blocker will not remedy.

that guy named seb · · Britland · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 236

What scrubs i can't believe you guys actually use belay devices i just tie in and run back and forth, it's great cardio..

T340 · · Idaho · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 5

Hip belay?
All kidding aside, has anyone here ever used a hip belay even?

James Willis · · Phoenix, AZ · Joined May 2013 · Points: 165

Regarding the OP, its pretty simple. A GriGri is going to be safer in scenarios where ripping gear isn't a concern. It will catch in every situation an ATC would, and has the added benefit of the assisted braking mechanism being able to catch the climber if the belayer is fucking up somehow or unconscious.

OF COURSE you need to use you brake hand etc etc but the grigri is going to catch without a brake hand 95%+ of the time. If the situation arises where its useful, that 95% is infinitely better than the 0% you're going to get from an ATC.

In scenarios with marginal gear, an ATC is nice for lead belay. The slip of the device causes lower peak loads on the gear since the fall is arrested over a larger period of time.

T340 wrote:Hip belay? All kidding aside, has anyone here ever used a hip belay even?
Yeah, i used them at the top of a 5.easy pitch where my follower isnt going to fall and I have a bomber seat. Think the last 40 foot moderate pitch of a big multi
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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