02.5) Bolts Over Troubled Water
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 2.7 from 29 votes
Type: | Sport, 50 ft (15 m) |
FA: | Michael Endrizzi |
Page Views: | 1,419 total · 12/month |
Shared By: | Dreez on May 26, 2014 |
Admins: | K Ice, Kris Gorny |
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Description
Start on right facing 6ft tall flake, lean left, bit hard first move but well protected. Follow boltline. Crux is where route intersecs with Ramp Of Death, slabby well protected with 2 bolts. Last move is pretty hard if you go straight up/left'ish (I didn't use the 2ft flake, see if you can do that) and clip to the right. I tested the flake and it seems good, but hate to see it come off. Might have your belayer stand aside.
I had to put the anchors on the right because the block is loose at the top of the route.
Great 5.10a lead for short people.
Bolted: 5/24/14 Michael Endrizzi
Prefer no drytooling here. Drytooling destroys routes. Tradition is to use web anchors and trad gear
if you really need to drytool. Bolts are for sport climbers. Let's save these climbs for YOUR kids. Thanks. Dreez
I had to put the anchors on the right because the block is loose at the top of the route.
Great 5.10a lead for short people.
Bolted: 5/24/14 Michael Endrizzi
Prefer no drytooling here. Drytooling destroys routes. Tradition is to use web anchors and trad gear
if you really need to drytool. Bolts are for sport climbers. Let's save these climbs for YOUR kids. Thanks. Dreez
3 Comments