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Watzmann

Original Post
Justin Drake · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2016 · Points: 0

I'm going to be in Berchtesgaden for a a week in June. I'm athletic, in decent shape and a good natural climber, but I have no real mountaineering experience. Is it reasonable for someone like me to climb the three Watzmann peaks?

MalcolmX · · Munich, Germany · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 0

Generally you should be fine, the Watzmann Überschreitung is basically a hike and even the Ostwand is technically very easy. But i am not sure if the conditions will be good enough in June. There is probably still a lot of snow, and in that case you would need some mountainiering experience.

kenr · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 16,608

I've done three different routes on the Watzmann.

The "normal" route is a (sometimes scrambly) (N-facing sometimes snowy ? or icy ?) hike from the N-side hut (? Watzmann hut ?) up to the north-most peak (?Hocheck?). But traversing to the other two (higher) summits is a cable-protected scramble ("klettersteig"), often with icy sections. Most people who do the traverse of the three summits use a Via Ferrata kit / klettersteig kit - (very few non-climbers think that it's a "hike").

If you want to avoid some pounding on your knees+ankles on descent, use a mountain bike for the approach.

The Watzmann-Ostwand (East Face) is a very long route, with navigation concerns. Some fairly difficult scrambling (some moves at least class 4 USA grade): Some parties use a rope for protection.
The "normal" Ostwand route is subject to rockfall hazard from other parties. If I were doing the Ostwand again (unlikely), I would choose a more technical route to avoid the rockfall.
. . (and to reduce knee+ankle pounding on descent afterward, find creative use of
. . . mountain bike for one segment of the approach).

My favorite route on the Watzmann is the Wieder route ("little Ostwand"). Perhaps a bit more climbing difficulty (? multiple low-class-5-USA sections ?) than the "big Ostwand", but more interesting (and much shorter).
. . (and again, consider mountain bike approach).

Ken

P.S. My opinion is that there's lots better ridge traverses (with or without cable protection) in the European Alps than the Watzmann summit ridge. Mainly because the route does not get up onto the crest of the ridge hardly at all.
. . (so just going up to the Hocheck and declaring victory might be sufficient).

P.S. For a very long not-so-difficult climbing route near Berchtesgaden, my opinion is that the Koenigsjodler klettersteig was way more interesting climbing and more interesting situation than the Watzmann-Ostwand.
. . (much farther from Berchtesgaden, the very long via ferrata Alleghesi route on
. . . Civetta also is much better than the Ostwand).

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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