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Justin Headley
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May 15, 2016
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Tucson
· Joined Oct 2013
· Points: 622
Since stopping to clip a bolt can take a lot of energy, one could make a route easier by skipping bolts. If one does that, can they really claim they sent the route?
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Bryan
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May 15, 2016
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Minneapolis, MN
· Joined Apr 2015
· Points: 462
I would say it's still good.
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Muscrat
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May 15, 2016
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Oct 2011
· Points: 3,625
If you free solo it, does it count?
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Andrew Wood
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May 15, 2016
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jul 2015
· Points: 60
are we talking quickdraws or just a carabiner? Also, if you use more than a 2 foot runner on a bolt, is that still a redpoint?
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Zac St Jules
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May 15, 2016
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New Hampshire
· Joined Dec 2013
· Points: 1,188
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Mark E Dixon
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May 15, 2016
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Possunt, nec posse videntur
· Joined Nov 2007
· Points: 974
If you really want somebody to tell you the true way to climb a sport route, then you need to post this in the Trad forum.
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Oscar Dolan
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May 15, 2016
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined May 2016
· Points: 0
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Jacob Smith
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May 15, 2016
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Seattle, WA
· Joined Aug 2013
· Points: 230
I'd give this OP a 70% chance of being a troll, but on the off chance that anyone is interested in an actual conversation: My impression is that the goal of sport climbing is to strip climbing down to the challenge of physical movement on rock and as such, the extra challenge of placing and clipping quickdraws is basically irrelevant. I've read that at high levels, having pre-placed draws can make a climb feel about one letter grade easier, but as placing draws is not exactly a challenge anyone is interested in/derived fulfillment from, no one cares. A true redpoint of a sport climb is climbing the route without falling or resting and the manner of protection is basically irrelevant as long as there isn't a top-rope. The whole distinction between pinkpointing and redpointing is really only meaningful when talking about trad climbs, where the challenge of placing pro is an important and valued part of the experience.
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Andrew Wood
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May 15, 2016
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jul 2015
· Points: 60
Mark E Dixon wrote:If you really want somebody to tell you the true way to climb a sport route, then you need to post this in the Trad forum. it's not a red point unless the belayer was hip belaying.
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rob.calm
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May 15, 2016
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Loveland, CO
· Joined May 2002
· Points: 630
A while back, I climbed a bolted route at the Monastery at Lumpy Ridge. Before I started, I noticed placements for gear so I took along some small stoppers and tricams. I placed about three of them. When I was back on the ground, I was talking to a young climber, who insisted I hadn't done a clean ascent since placing the gear had made the climb easier. Well, it certainly made it easier psychologically. At first I assumed he was just teasing me, but finally decided that he was serious about my ascent being marred by placing the extra gear. rob.calm
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Paul Hutton
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May 15, 2016
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Nephi, UT
· Joined Mar 2012
· Points: 740
What kind of harnesses were being used? What kind of belay device? What kind of shoes? What kind of chalk? What brand name was on the hanger that you skipped? Did you power scream when you climbed past the bolt that you skipped? A day of rain, here, in Halfway, OR.
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FrankPS
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May 15, 2016
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Atascadero, CA
· Joined Nov 2009
· Points: 276
rob.calm wrote:A while back, I climbed a bolted route at the Monastery at Lumpy Ridge. Before I started, I noticed placements for gear so I took along some small stoppers and tricams. I placed about three of them. When I was back on the ground, I was talking to a young climber, who insisted I hadn't done a clean ascent since placing the gear had made the climb easier. Well, it certainly made it easier psychologically. At first I assumed he was just teasing me, but finally decided that he was serious about my ascent being marred by placing the extra gear. rob.calm It's not about staying safe and having fun - it's about conforming to other people's style and ethics. It's not as if we're climbing for ourselves and enjoyment!
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Creed Archibald
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May 15, 2016
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Salt Lake City, UT
· Joined Apr 2012
· Points: 1,016
The only ethic in sport climbing is "look rad." If you looked "rad" skipping the bolts, it counts. If you looked sketchy, no good.
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Zac St Jules
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May 15, 2016
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New Hampshire
· Joined Dec 2013
· Points: 1,188
C. Archibald wrote:The only ethic in sport climbing is "look rad." If you looked "rad" skipping the bolts, it counts. If you looked sketchy, no good. That sounds about right.
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Troy S
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May 24, 2016
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Waltham, MA
· Joined Oct 2015
· Points: 55
Jacob Smith wrote: A true redpoint of a sport climb is climbing the route without falling or resting and the manner of protection is basically irrelevant as long as there isn't a top-rope. That's a new one, didn't know we weren't allowed to rest. So just power your way through the route, how many seconds of shaking out on a hold before it's considered a rest? Just wanna make sure I'm doing this climbing thing legit...
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Jacob Smith
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May 24, 2016
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Seattle, WA
· Joined Aug 2013
· Points: 230
Troy S wrote: That's a new one, didn't know we weren't allowed to rest. So just power your way through the route, how many seconds of shaking out on a hold before it's considered a rest? Just wanna make sure I'm doing this climbing thing legit... Don't be dense. I meant weighting the rope.
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Sam Stephens
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May 24, 2016
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PORTLAND, OR
· Joined Jan 2010
· Points: 1,090
So every no hands knee bar, or hand jam I've ever picked on a sport route basically negates all my sends? Climb smart, not hard. Resting your way up a route is the best way to send a route.
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Scott McMahon
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May 24, 2016
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Boulder, CO
· Joined Feb 2006
· Points: 1,425
rob.calm wrote:A while back, I climbed a bolted route at the Monastery at Lumpy Ridge. Before I started, I noticed placements for gear so I took along some small stoppers and tricams. I placed about three of them. When I was back on the ground, I was talking to a young climber, who insisted I hadn't done a clean ascent since placing the gear had made the climb easier. Well, it certainly made it easier psychologically. At first I assumed he was just teasing me, but finally decided that he was serious about my ascent being marred by placing the extra gear. rob.calm haha that's a first. I'll have to remember next time I'm thrutching trying to get piece in how much "easier" I made the route.
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David Gibbs
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May 24, 2016
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Ottawa, ON
· Joined Aug 2010
· Points: 2
Sam Stephens wrote:So every no hands knee bar, or hand jam I've ever picked on a sport route basically negates all my sends? I didn't know they made sports routes with hand jams! Wow. Mind blown.
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Ted Pinson
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May 24, 2016
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Chicago, IL
· Joined Jul 2014
· Points: 252
Yeah, that always bothered me about climbing comps. While I get why they would have a rule like that (liability, insurance, etc), it is rather silly, as skipping clips is often prudent given the situation, especially on gym routes where there are draws every 2 feet. As far as OP, I agree with Jacob that this is probably trolling, echoing the nonsense over in the trad forum about pinkpointing. In the event that it is not: YES, obviously it still counts.
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jellybean
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May 24, 2016
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Feb 2013
· Points: 0
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