Red pointing vs "sport" pink pointing

csproul wrote: Runouts, sure. But for high 1st bolts, that why stick clips were invented.

climbing friend,

Get yourself having a 20' extendable painters pole, at least, then you may be happy to clipping the 2nd or 3rd bolt at least.

You may even get a 100' pole and clip the anchors for you tick the flash on MP to better update your tick breakdown! ho ho ho ho ho haha hah hah hah hya ho ha he he he hah mmmmmmmmmmyyyyyyyyyaaaaghhhh!

Jake Jones wrote: Breaking your spine isn't endangering your life? Sport climbing isn't about balls, it's about difficulty of movement. If you want climbing that's about balls, do R rated routes on choss piles.

The spine wasn't sport climbing. but ankles and ribs were. You fall shit happens. thats climbing. I haven't ever been injured from decking before the first bolt. If the first bolt is high I get a good spot. if I don't think i can do it I don't do it.

True its not about balls. The best sport climber i know is a girl and she crushes male ego with out balls.

SummitSender wrote: I agree I climb routes with and without. Doesn't matter to me. I just get confused when ego fueled guys come up to someone on a route they are "projecting" and say it doesn't count if you don't hang them yourself. This however came out of a guys mouth after my girlfriend unsighted his bad ass 5.12 proj. I promptly climbed it after her and had a blast on it. Seems like there are more rules and tools for climbing than i remember from when i was a young kid starting out. I wonder if people would still try hard if there were no grades...

I use every tool available to me because all sports are improved through the use of new technologies. I think that people who don't take advantage of new tools are kind of like the Amish in that they are arbitrarily choosing to stop at a certain level of technological advancement.

The biggest thing with all of these "rules" is that no matter what tools you use or what strategies you employ to climb a route, be honest in recounting what you did. There is always more to the story of how routes are done than words like onsight, flash and redpoint can really convey.

SummitSender wrote:she crushes male ego with out balls

are out balls pre-hung? because then it doesn't count.

Pre-hung...sport...pink?
Heck boys.
Dave MacLeod I do not think knows of this color, pink. Climbing friend Aleks, he does save the fish heads for after when he sends. The anticipation of delight gives him the power to send the real climbing of real climbs.

And for you others. Yes it is but obviously true that pre-hung draws does to make the send very much easier. Sorry if this is to hurt your ego any. But we all do have fun with our climbs in what ever style we choose. It is the enjoyment of the send not the style that requires eating only fish heads.

people get so butt hurt when you bring up this stuff and why? the terms weren't created to bruise egos they were created to set benchmarks, serve as a rating, and ultimitely push limits. personally I could care less about differentiating on sport routes but when it comes to trad climbs the distinction is important, because the level of difficulty between pink and red is quite significant.

climbing friend,

do not hurt your butt to be "butt hurt," eat only your fishheads and cheesesteaks for bulging power meat flash, or alternatively become radical vegan activist for wiry thin tiny dancer flash.

climbing friend,

why must the first man he wear the bun hugger banana squeezers? What is it he is thinking?

The second man, yes, he has quite good bulging meat. I agree this is achievable plant based and better for everyone, environment, health, and the innocent animal killings, but I prefer the fish head and cheesesteaks, most delciious , mmmm, and also crushing the heads of fisha nd other small animals in my palms, most meaty.

Aleks Zebastian wrote:climbing friend, why must the first man he wear the bun hugger banana squeezers? What is it he is thinking? The second man, yes, he has quite good bulging meat. I agree this is achievable plant based and better for everyone, environment, health, and the innocent animal killings, but I prefer the fish head and cheesesteaks, most delciious , mmmm, and also crushing the heads of fisha nd other small animals in my palms, most meaty.

Oh my God! You guys are the best!

SummitSender wrote:Just want to hear from everyone about there thoughts on the subject of pre hung draws in sport routes.

Please tell us you read this 5 pages (so far)
mountainproject.com/v/prepl…
before starting a new thread on essentially the same subject?

SummitSender wrote:Why does everyone use stick clips an or pre clip the first bolt from the ground? I see this more now than ever! whats the deal?

On many sport routes, the first bolt is intentionally placed high with the full expectation that a stick clip will be used. This saves the need for an extra bolt or two low on the route. That adds up monetarily if you're developing a lot of routes. More importantly, it's much safer since a low first bolt is useful for keeping you off the ground for only a very small bit of upward movement. Another consideration is that with a low first bolt you would be in ground-fall range before reaching the second bolt. On a lot of sport routes those opening moves in the first 20 feet may only be a letter grade or two below the crux grade. If I'm working a 12a, I sure wouldn't want to encounter the 11d moves at 17' unprotected simply because I was too obstinate to not use a stick clip on the first bolt 20' up.

La Dura Dura (5.15c) is the hardest route ever climbed with pre-placed draws. FA-Adam Ondra, 2nd by Sharma. Not stick clipping the first bolt when you're climbing at or near your limit and there is potential for injury from a ground fall is just dumb. Yeah you may not die, but you could break an ankle and not be able to climb for a while, nobody likes that. Sadly climbers ego's get in the way sometimes. Carry on.

And this is in the trad forum?

mountainhick wrote:And this is in the trad forum?

Because only trad climbers care about redpoint vs sport pinkpoint.
Although most of them couldn't care less, I'll bet.

Mark E Dixon wrote: Because only trad climbers care about redpoint vs sport pinkpoint.

Doubt that.

Mark E Dixon wrote: Although most of them couldn't care less, I'll bet.

True that.

Mark E Dixon wrote: Although most of them couldn't care less, I'll bet.

I'm happy climbing sport as well, but who hangs the draws... yawner. I sure don't care.

But when it comes to leading trad on pre-placed gear with runners in place, well, err... Kind of antithetical.

mountainhick wrote: I'm happy climbing sport as well, but who hangs the draws... yawner. I sure don't care. But when it comes to leading trad on pre-placed gear with runners in place, well, err... Kind of antithetical.

My sentiments exactly.

Mark E Dixon wrote: Because only trad climbers care about redpoint vs sport pinkpoint.

William Thiry wrote: Doubt that.

Probably depends who you hang around with.
I sure don't know any sport climbers who care about the pink/red distinction.
But I don't get around that much these days.

Mark E Dixon wrote: Probably depends who you hang around with. I sure don't know any sport climbers who care about the pink/red distinction. But I don't get around that much these days.

No worries, Mark. I know a lot of trad climbers and nobody is really concerned about redointing vs. sport pink pointing and so forth. Mostly they just want to climb, which includes sport climbing from time to time.

So one day Summit Sender and I were on a long route. Several pitches up, nature called. At the cramped belay I couldn't help but notice that he had a W and Y tattoo'd to his weinershnitzel.

Being curious of such a strange modification I asked if his girlfriend might possibly be named wendy. He simply replied that it actually said Welcome to Jamaica, Have a Nice Day.

I pink pointed your mother after the on-sight