Edelrid Mega Jul

Sam Stephens wrote:Has anyone had a problem with their megajul slipping excessively? I rapped yesterday on a single line in locking mode, and it basically didn't lock up at all, I actually had to redirect off my leg loop to control it. Rope was a 9.4 trango I've also noticed it slipping more and more when belaying. I use the edelrid HMS biner, and it's getting grooved, but not excessively. It's a little concerning considering how well it performed initially. I wonder if it has to do with it being sensitive to biner cross section. I have been using it a ton for sport climbing, probably 2-3 weekends a month, but don't use it in the gym.

When I single rope rap with my 8mm tag the mega jul will not lock up in lock mode (handle down) it just feeds very slowly.

So much for no other instances of cable breaks:

The batch is 04/13, so the oldest devices that were not recalled. I was belaying from above and it just broke. There is a lot of corrosion between the cable and the main body metal, from what happens with corrosion caused by different types of metals in fixed anchors I would say this is galvanic corrosion. It doesn't help that the plastic is there in a way it just seems to keep humidity inside.

I really like the way it works and now I'm totally disappointed... It is not the 1st time I get to the conclusion that Edelrid has great product design and ideas, but execution is just terrible.

Don Ferris wrote: When I single rope rap with my 8mm tag the mega jul will not lock up in lock mode (handle down) it just feeds very slowly.

I single rope rapped on a 9.5 and had to redirect off my leg loop to control it. I highly suspect it's due to reduced cross section on my belay biner from belaying and rappelling.

The locking on this device is sensitive to binder cross section in my experience.

And to the galvanic corrosion comment: I really doubt you can generate galvanic corrosion there... even if they used carbon steel cable with the SS body. Maybe crevice corrosion. Do you store your climbing gear in a tidal zone? Looks more like reddish dirt...

Mike13 wrote:And to the galvanic corrosion comment: I really doubt you can generate galvanic corrosion there... even if they used carbon steel cable with the SS body. Maybe crevice corrosion. Do you store your climbing gear in a tidal zone? Looks more like reddish dirt...

I am a mountain guide and give climbing courses for a living, I have lots of gear (including several other belay devices), some of it is 10 years old, and guess what, I NEVER had anything with such corrosion. The only things I had to retire so far have been my harness, some slings, some ropes, due to usual fabric wear, and some carabiners due to being worn out.

I have used this thing for 2 years and it breaks because it is full of rust, while my old reverso (that was used for many more years) is still usable (although it is quite worn out). I have several shuttle from singing rock and the older ones are also a bit worn out, and guess what, no rust either! All these devices have a cable just like the mega jul, and I NEVER had any problems, as expected I would say, because I would say the cable of your belaying device is not supposed to rust. And I can assure you that "reddish dirt" is indeed lots and lots of RUST, like rust you see in old steel cables that are left outside. And as you can imagine, I have not left my belaying device outside for these 2 years, or inside saltwater for that matter, because so much corrosion in such a short amount of time does indeed seem like I have done it. Either that or there is a REAL big problem with these devices, and mine gets used every week and sometimes near the ocean so it just showed faster. But you don't need to take my word for it, just wait until yours break also and then complain to Edelrid.

anotherclimber wrote:

Jim,

Thank you for the clarification with your own experience and testing. I wasn't aware of some of the details of what was used. It's good that people read different perspectives. My reference to you as a user, is as a Mountain Project user, not MegaJul. I know you don't like this device. I respect that even though my own experience has been different with it. The only time I've ever noticed either the Megajul or the Alpine Smart Belay not move into the locking position is if a hand is not on the brake strand and there is not very much rope on the brake strand side. That does though go completely against proper usage. 

Edit: I took out the word user in front of your name in my prior post realizing it is probably confusing to some people. 

I don´t "don´t like this device", I just test them and see if they work and why or why not.

Jim, do you have any more details on the cases where the alpine smart just doesn't lock up? I don't currently use one anymore, but I previously used mine extensively and never experienced such a thing, unless you count slippage while rapping on a single strand. But in that case, it is pretty well documented and hopefully well known. 

I couldn't help but to lol at this..   Just got one of these devices though and it's fantastic so far!  Recommend!

eli poss wrote:

Jim, do you have any more details on the cases where the alpine smart just doesn't lock up? I don't currently use one anymore, but I previously used mine extensively and never experienced such a thing, unless you count slippage while rapping on a single strand. But in that case, it is pretty well documented and hopefully well known. 

There was a case or two reported where one strand of the rope went through the slot and interfered with the karabiner, this has also occured with the MJ where the two loops crossed each other on the karabiner. Also mentioned somewhere was a case where the karabiner had turned around and the small end went into one side of the MJ preventing the rope from locking. I know of another case where with the normal Smart where the handle became hooked in the belayer jacket where it was bunched up in the harness and failed to lock.

All things which could have been avoided but weren´t.

Both devices naturally enough don´t lock up in FF2 anyway but this is mentioned in the instructions.

climbing friend,

i have losing of my edelrid mega jul, do you steals it from meh? If so, I headlock on you! If no, I hug on you as the friend.

even though it may kink on your rope, I enjoy to utilize this device on rare occasion I do not utilize the grigri 2 bold sport and trad cutting edge difficulty, yet enjoyable w/ forearm refresh at crux flash. If the germans they can eliminate all kinking, even with phat round karabiner, perhaps they have one device to rule them all? One device to bind them?

Sam Stephens wrote: I've done a ton of top roping with the Mega jul. I really like it but I have had it catch and lock up when on lead belay and I was trying to pay out rope quickly. I'm goin to try and work through that problem. Maybe a little technique is required. This happened a few times with me initially. A combination of having the right biner, and always keep pressure out on the thumb loop fixed it. My thumb never comes out of the thumb loop, I don't pay out slack like an ATC with it, just keep the thumb resting in the loop and pull. Been using one for a while, on a big sport climbing kick and it's been fantastic. My only gripe is that the biner I use tends to rotate to the narrow end sometimes and it doesn't brake as good. Ordered an Edelrid with the wire loop to take care of it. Ropes from 9.2 to 10.5 have been fine, albeit the fatter gym ropes obviously show more resistance to feeding than a 9.2. One thing I've found rapping with it, (I turn it around with the wire loop outside of the biner) is that if you put the end with the narrow tabs at the bottom, it'll twist the hell out of the rope. I haven't tried it in auto lock mode but once and didn't have good results, need to work on it some more. Guide mode works pretty well, fat ropes or two higher 9mm ropes are a pain but that's almost any guide device.

Yes!  It twists the rope lead belaying too.  I've restricted my use of this otherwise wonderful device to big alpine routes, for this reason.  Hoping the ATC Pilot comes in a two-strand version soon, as I think more physical structure might reduce the twist problem.  

Jacon wrote:

Yes!  It twists the rope lead belaying too.  I've restricted my use of this otherwise wonderful device to big alpine routes, for this reason.  Hoping the ATC Pilot comes in a two-strand version soon, as I think more physical structure might reduce the twist problem.  

I've been using the MegaJul for a couple of years now and haven't experienced any rope twisting. I can't understand why it would twist the rope as the rope runs through it the same as an ATC.  I recently switched from the MegaJul to the MegaJul Sport and find it feeds rope easier and is a little more beefy.  https://www.climbing.com/gear/2017-belay-device-review-edelrid-mega-jul-sport/  I only use it opposite of you:  for sport climbing and top-roping.  I use an ATC Guide for multi-pitch/alpine.

Honestly, I can't understand it either.  There's no clear mechanism like a figure 8 or Munter—and the effect definitely isn't as strong as those classic rope twisters.  But it does.  I think it has something to do with how little material there is relative to an ATC Guide: the ATC has enough metal to force the rope to go in and out in a straight bight, whereas the Mega Jul it seems to be more of a cockeyed bight.   Seems like the MegaJul Sport might be better, but I haven't tried it.