RMNP Linkup Ideas

Howdy folks, my birthday is June 21st, the Summer Solstice (longest day of the year). I traditionally celebrate this day by coming up with as ambitious an objective as possible to take full advantage of the prolific daylight (last year was RNWF of Half Dome).

I'll be turning 26 this Solstice, and to celebrate my game plan is to do 26 guidebook pitches in RMNP.

I have a few ideas, but I'll keep them to myself, as I want ya'll's ideas independent of my own.

I'm looking to stay in the 5.9 and under range, but I can do RMNP 5.10's, I just think that keeping it a bit easier will be a better recipe for success.

So what linkups do you folks think will be feasible, and potentially get me close to that 26 (guidebook) pitch mark

Saber, Petit, Sharktooth, to Zowie would be a good linkup. Make sure you climb the left side of Petit to avoid the crowds.

Guy H. wrote:Saber, Petit, Sharktooth, to Zowie would be a good linkup. Make sure you climb the left side of Petit to avoid the crowds.

If I were to do that, I'm thinking I'd do Petit, rap off, then the Saber, walk off the back and to the base of Sharktooth's NE Ridge, then rap Sharkstooth, descend the snowfield and hike to Otis Peak & Zowie?

As I'm sure you're aware, 26 pitches in the high peaks is a pretty tall order for that time of year and our usual weather patterns. Most of the classic linkups in the Park involve aesthetic routes between formations, not pitch counts.
The Lumpy link, which climbs all of the major formations on the ridge could get easily get you two dozen and is a bit more accessible. It's also in the Park.
Either way, sounds like a fun and ambitious plan, good luck!

Either option would work, Petit or Saber first. I haven't climbed the terrain from the Petit or Saber to the base of Sharkstooth to comment on the easiest path.

Go over to Otis (Zowie) and link up all 9 of my routes in one day.
All south facing. All on the same mountain.
Mostly 4 long pitches for each route on beautiful spires.
Hardest grade is 10+R, but the rest of them are mostly what you are looking for.

Petit to Sharkstooth is easiest doing the first two raps off Petit then an easy pitch up a gully/chimney thing. That pitch is easy in approach shoes and could be simul'd or soloed depending on comfort level. Could hold snow early in the season though-we did it in September. I'd recommend Saber then Petit simply because of the amount of scree scrambling up to the start of the Saber.

Killer responses (dang Cor, prolific a bit?!?!) ... keep 'em coming!

Three routes on Hallet would get you there, or really close by traditional pitch counts, and works well logistically (I've done two in a day and we didn't do a third mainly out of laziness, and I am no speed demon).

The Petit-Saber-sharks tooth sounds even more awesome and is one I've always wanted to do. You can also count all the easier pitches at the bottom and top of Saber even though you will solo or simul them ;) I remember the descent off the Saber summit being pretty straightforward 4th class, and puts you right down at the base of the sharks tooth routes.

Finally, I'm sure you've considered this, but Sykes Sickle to Barb to North Ridge would work well and get you to about 26.

VRP wrote: I'd recommend Saber then Petit simply because of the amount of scree scrambling up to the start of the Saber.

I climbed the saber, petite and Sharkstooth last season and we found it would be faster/easier to climb the petite, rap a couple raps to a big ledge that connects to the saber which puts you right at the base of the south west corner route on the saber. This way you only scree scramble once and avoid the easy 5th towards the bottom of the saber. From the top of the saber you can scramble off the back (north side) and down to the Sharkstooth.

You could add the 5.4 route (standard descent) on Sharkstooth after Petite/Saber, rap, and then do NE face. It'd be a quick 2-pitch addition. Also, you could tack on Wham Tower after Zowie.

In GG, Spearhead to either Pagoda's N face or W Ridge, and then a whole host of Longs combos.

You're going to pitch it out like the guidebook too, right?

tim wrote:You're going to pitch it out like the guidebook too, right?

No, we'll simul with Kong ducks whenever possible. The guidebook pitches are just to track my quest to 26

Don Ferris wrote: it would be faster/easier to climb the petite, rap a couple raps to a big ledge that connects to the saber which puts you right at the base of the south west corner route on the saber. This way you only scree scramble once and avoid the easy 5th towards the bottom of the saber. From the top of the saber you can scramble off the back (north side) and down to the Sharkstooth.

Killer dude, thanks, that scrambling doesn't count towards my 26 pitches, so I'm more than happy to eliminate it altogether

I don't have any insights into climbing at RMNP but I recently completed a single day multi-pitch birthday mission. Here is a few things I learned:
1. The biggest slow down are the crowds. Below the 7 range we came across parties that were slow and not ok with us passing. Had we not been on routes with options, this would have been a huge time suck. I would make a list of alternative pitches and aim for less classic routes.
2. We did a climb I had done before while it was still dark. It was nice to just walk up to the climb and go. Also, it was a great morale boaster to have 5 pitches done before we saw the sun.
3. I did not account how much the bonking affected my head space. If I did this again I would try to finish off the day with well protected climbs. On my last climb I burned a bunch of time talking myself into a run out that would have normal been a non-issue.

Sounds like a sick day!

So, I'm actually looking for someone to join me on this quest, as my partner had an unexpected work commitment come up. If you'd like to talk about possibly joining me for
This mission. Shoot me a text. 970-787-0000

I'm into the idea. Not sure of work schedule yet though, but I could commit to the day by about June 10.

For now, I just want to know how you got such a dope phone number.

Jon H wrote:I'm into the idea. Not sure of work schedule yet though, but I could commit to the day by about June 10. For now, I just want to know how you got such a dope phone number.

Awesome Jon! Looking forward to hearing from you. Text me and let's get out soon regardless. I'm always looking for psyched partners.

And the number was randomly assigned.... But, it's not as dope as you might think, I just got the number a couple weeks back and sometimes people don't answer me because they think it's a telemarketer or something.

Although it might not meet your pitch # guideline, linking Directagional into Komoto Freeway is a great link-up. By the time you hit Broadway most of the crowds have dispersed. If you have the energy and the weather gods are smiling on you you could rap Chasm view and Babies R us and finish the day with Directissema.

You can French free through all the .11 on Directagional, and Komoto Freeway (D7 to Forest Finish) is probably the best .10 in RMNP. If you have done RNWF IAD you should have no problem with it.

Just an idea.....You can be pretty sure you will be the only ones doing the routes at the times you will be getting on them. Directagional is actually pretty well protected from rock fall and is best to climb early season before it starts to seep.

Happy Birthday.

Kevin Stricker wrote:Directagional is actually pretty well protected from rock fall and is best to climb early season before it starts to seep. Happy Birthday.

Why thank you so much brother! I appreciate both the beta and the birthday wishes.