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Good pro or easy runout

Original Post
Leslie H · · Keystone · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 415

So while I was climbing an easy but rather runout multi pitch today I got to thinking, which do people prefer: runout, easy climbing, or harder climbs that have better protection?

Josh Kornish · · Whitefish, MT · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 800

R U N O U T H A R D C L I M B I N G

ChrisJohnsonMT · · Missoula, MT · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 55

No hesitation from Josh!

I would rather run out some easy stuff

Ben Mackall · · Bozeman, MT · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 1,823

If it's at my limit I like it well protected, or runout at a grade just hard enough where I start to get excited (say 5.8 or 5.9?). There are a lot of amazing 5.7-5.9 pitches here in the Gallatin Canyon in MT with sections of 40-50 runout. Easy is fun either way, I've been on awesome 5.7 clip-ups and SUPER runout 5.5 slabs. All good fun.

Tradgic Yogurt · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2016 · Points: 55

Judging from Crack Swindler and similar routes the last few weeks, I'm leaning toward runout easy terrain. Perhaps a fair number of low experience trad leaders lean this way?

20 kN · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,346

Harder climbs with good pro. I most prefer very long, continuously difficult multi-pitch climbs that protect well.

T340 · · Idaho · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 5

Harder climb(for my ability) with good protection would be my preference.
Something that plays into this, for me, is the increased likelihood of an injury on a easier climb in case of a fall(ledges).

rogerbenton · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 210

Hard climbs with "G" pro 100%.

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 252

Agreed.

Kevin DeWeese · · @failfalling - Oakland, Ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 981

Harder climbs and easier climbs are all made better with a GoPro... oh, wait, wrong thread.

JK- Branin · · NYC-ish · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 56

90% of the time I'd rather have run out easy terrain. 10% of the time I want to try hard, and when I do I like for it to be well protected.

Eliot Augusto · · Lafayette, CO · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 60
Christian George wrote: If the pro isn't good enough, wait a few hours and someone from Boulder will be by to bolt the piss out of it.
WHAT?! Did I hear you correctly? There are rocks out there without bolts in them? Tell me where they are and I'll grab some extra batteries for my hilti. I'll be busy for a few days while I finish retro bolting my neighbors retaining wall.
Todd R · · Vansion, CO / WY · Joined May 2014 · Points: 40

Runout hard stuff!

Seriously though, there's just something about running it out near your limit...

Leslie H · · Keystone · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 415
Josh Kornish wrote:R U N O U T H A R D C L I M B I N G
Tell us how you really feel, Josh!
Pnelson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 635

I like easy climbing that is easy to protect. I've found that my "style" involves low angle slabs, but with big holds that are really close together. Yay!

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,492
Leslie McG wrote:So while I was climbing an easy but rather runout multi pitch today I got to thinking, which do people prefer: runout, easy climbing, or harder climbs that have better protection?
Both can offer a good dose of satisfaction. (Note - I'm talking SERIOUSLY run-out stuff)
mountainhick · · Black Hawk, CO · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 120

Why not both? Enjoy it all.

john strand · · southern colo · Joined May 2008 · Points: 1,640

RIGHT !!! But the occasional good whipper keeps you "enlightened"

Pete Spri · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 347

I tend to gravitate more to slab where you can find a stance to look around and enjoy the view.

I know lots of people love the intense focus and rush of overhung climbing where you are fighting the aerobic/anaerobic and lactic acid clock, but that isn't quite me.

Bill Kirby · · Keene New York · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480

I've done some lead top roping on G rated routes at my limit. You know where you always have some pro above you on the way up. I don't really feel that exciting now that Ive fell and think the gear won't rip out. So for me runout easier climbing gets my vote.

Eric Wydeven · · austin, tx · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 0

Go check out the final pitch on The West Ridge route on The Wedge in the Organ Mountains of New Mexico. 5.7 terrain, but with a huge runout above spotty pro and exposed as all get out. Exciting moves, and blowing it means a high probability of potentially serious injury. Very exciting. So my vote goes for runout on easy terrain, but terrain that will put those tingles in your belly you have to put down in order to make the moves. I was solid leading at 5.8 when I did this line, but this pitch got into my head. I like that.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Trad Climbing
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