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Baradur
5.11d YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3.7 from 3 votes
Type: | Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches |
FA: | Steve Grossman, Paul Davidson, 1979 |
Page Views: | 2,534 total · 17/month |
Shared By: | John Steiger on Aug 17, 2011 |
Admins: | adrian montaño, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Access Issue: Potentially unavailable to climbing February through July if raptors are breeding here.
Details
This area is historically used by nesting falcons, hawks, owls or other raptors. Breeding season varies but is roughly February through July. Nesting raptors are protected by law.
If you aren't sure if raptors are breeding here, then listen and watch for defensive behavior such as screeching or diving (links to info). If raptors are breeding in this area please climb somewhere else and let other climbers know.
Pressures on wildlife can be immense and are multiplied by effects of climate change and pollutants. Choosing to climb away from nest sites reduces unnecessary stresses to the birds. Give these animals a chance to thrive.
More info here: theclimbershome.org/breedin…
If you aren't sure if raptors are breeding here, then listen and watch for defensive behavior such as screeching or diving (links to info). If raptors are breeding in this area please climb somewhere else and let other climbers know.
Pressures on wildlife can be immense and are multiplied by effects of climate change and pollutants. Choosing to climb away from nest sites reduces unnecessary stresses to the birds. Give these animals a chance to thrive.
More info here: theclimbershome.org/breedin…
Description
A number of us locals were competing for the FA of this line in the late 70s, a right-facing, right-leaning corner that just disappeared into an apparently blank face. Until Steve's lead in 1979, those of us who tried it didn't even make it to the end of the crack. Some of us called it the "Crack of No Return," which doesn't make sense now, but seemed to then -- something to do with what appeared to be oblivion waiting at crack's end. Steve didn't have an easy time of it, though, taking several falls on the crack and hanging from a slinged 'head to work out the crux face moves. Because Steve was in a different league than the rest of us, and maybe because he and Paul named it for the heart of the black land of Mordor, the route didn't see a second ascent for five years (having the benefit of knowing it went, clad in better footwear, and wanting to impress the Verm, who was belaying, I barely squeaked up it first go -- ah, faded glory).
The first pitch is the business; belay from slings at two bolts (hanging). The second is moderately run-out 5.10, protected by a lone bolt and some gear, to a ledge just after a short left-facing corner. The third and fourth pitches are 4th or very easy 5th class. I suspect that the first and second pitch can be combined, which would make for a lead worthy of Sauron.
The first pitch is the business; belay from slings at two bolts (hanging). The second is moderately run-out 5.10, protected by a lone bolt and some gear, to a ledge just after a short left-facing corner. The third and fourth pitches are 4th or very easy 5th class. I suspect that the first and second pitch can be combined, which would make for a lead worthy of Sauron.
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